Short review of the carvex 420

Stone Message said:
This recent nonsense here on the FOG has wasted a lot of my time.
Peter

A little harsh Peter, I presume you are referring to Pip's issues here, not sure why you feel the need to defend Festool to the degree you feel its wasting your time. Pip did put mutiple discalimers re both technique and blade set-up. Given that both jigsaws he showed exhibited the same problems in terms of squareness, seemed self evident to me this was more than to do with the tooling.

what would be helpful is some side by side examples of what a dull blade, a blade running with the guides too tight (I have fun getting this right) and the difference speed and pendulum settings make, as I think the are some of th common factors effecting cut quality

Good to meet you albeit briefly at W12!
 
mattfc said:
Stone Message said:
This recent nonsense here on the FOG has wasted a lot of my time.
Peter

A little harsh Peter, I presume you are referring to Pip's issues here, not sure why you feel the need to defend Festool to the degree you feel its wasting your time. Pip did put mutiple discalimers re both technique and blade set-up. Given that both jigsaws he showed exhibited the same problems in terms of squareness, seemed self evident to me this was more than to do with the tooling.

what would be helpful is some side by side examples of what a dull blade, a blade running with the guides too tight (I have fun getting this right) and the difference speed and pendulum settings make, as I think the are some of th common factors effecting cut quality

Good to meet you albeit briefly at W12!

I am not getting at Pip at all but the stuff on the closed thread. I have been trying to gather as much inforamtion as I can before starting the PS420 review. My aim is to try and address every area where people feel there is an issue or a need for a clear demo. That closed thread went on for ages and there were some quite unsuttle pokes going on. Sifting through it to get the value out just takes time.

Peter
 
Stone Message said:
I am not getting at Pip at all but the stuff on the closed thread. I have been trying to gather as much inforamtion as I can before starting the PS420 review. My aim is to try and address every area where people feel there is an issue or a need for a clear demo. That closed thread went on for ages and there were some quite unsuttle pokes going on. Sifting through it to get the value out just takes time.

Peter

Ok.. I didn't have the pleasure of trawling through that thread.. maybe because I am happy with my PS300 and didn't have to go through the interim pain others did with the CARVEX [smile]
 
Stone Message said:
mattfc said:
Stone Message said:
This recent nonsense here on the FOG has wasted a lot of my time.
Peter

A little harsh Peter, I presume you are referring to Pip's issues here, not sure why you feel the need to defend Festool to the degree you feel its wasting your time. Pip did put mutiple discalimers re both technique and blade set-up. Given that both jigsaws he showed exhibited the same problems in terms of squareness, seemed self evident to me this was more than to do with the tooling.

what would be helpful is some side by side examples of what a dull blade, a blade running with the guides too tight (I have fun getting this right) and the difference speed and pendulum settings make, as I think the are some of th common factors effecting cut quality

Good to meet you albeit briefly at W12!

I am not getting at Pip at all but the stuff on the closed thread. I have been trying to gather as much inforamtion as I can before starting the PS420 review. My aim is to try and address every area where people feel there is an issue or a need for a clear demo. That closed thread went on for ages and there were some quite unsuttle pokes going on. Sifting through it to get the value out just takes time.

Peter

I agree with you on the time waiting aspect on the closed thread. I was also genuinely looking ( more sifting) for information and tips or snags that others were having with the new 420. So I could try it out my self and make up my own mind.
I like to use the best I can get my hands on and Festool normally supply that.
I was surprised in the test the Dutch did first that the Mafell wasn't having any difficulty running down the rail.
Havent had time to do a fee hand run in the beech yet will try to make time tomorrow.

Pip

 
I want to thank Art at Work - Pip and Stone Message - Peter for taking the time to explore the Carvex usage. I am sure we will all learn more over time of best usage, best blades, etc.

I had forgot and this all reminded me -- Years ago I had tried running my first generation Festool jigsaw against a straight edge trying to get a nice clean straight cut in some 1 1/2" MDF. Didn't work well at all. It was fine for the first couple inches and then wanted to burn, drift, smoke. Will have to try that again using a straight edge with my current PS300 and my Bosch and Makita. Will be a week or so before I get back to the shop. Currently, I just free-hand those type cuts or use my TS55 if I truly need accuracy. Doubt I will ever use a straight edge again but this all has my curiousity up!!
 
After the quick video from Peter, and the suggestions from various members about blade drift, I retried the test to cut 28mm Beech with out a rail to run along.

So I simply drew a line across the grain on the same board with a ball pen to have a nice clear line to follow.
I think I can say I cut a fairly good straight line now after some years of practice, so Im not really worried about my ability to do this.

I found a new Metabo blade 23 654  like the ones I used the first time and which burnt out. So I was happy as this would give me a fair go at a retrial.

I set up the blade guard on the 420 yes I think I have got an understanding of how to do it now. Fully tighten on the blade and then a third turn back to release it.

I set the line so the foot of the base was on the edge of the board. I decided to give both saws the maximum chance to cut so the Festool was set to Automatic.
The start of the cut was smooth and then about 5 cm in the blade wanted to wander.
So I corrected the saw to continue cutting straight and the back of the base was hanging over the board by about 1 cm.
I continued the cut to the end and checked for squareness. I was happy to see this time the cut was square at the beginning and only a little bit out in the middle and at the end.

So I then tried my old Metabo I just took the blade out of the Festool. Same set up, outside of the foot on the edge of the board. I set the speed to 6 - full power. The cut was slower BUT the base stayed straight to the edge of the board so I didn't need to correct for blade drift. It did a better job of staying in a straight line.
Checking the cut for square at the start dead Square at the end a little bit less off than the festool.

I found an unused Bosch T301CD "Clean Cut" blade and decided to try the test again with an alternative probably better blade.

Set up the Festool didn't need adjustment as same width.
This time the cut went much smoother and the saw stayed more in line with the edge, it did try to wander a minute amount, nothing compared to the other blade.
Testing for square the cut was much cleaner, spot on at the start  and off by a nats t** by the end. So a real improvement.

The metabo also made an improved cut, It was easier to move the saw through the wood and the cut was really straight.
When checked for square it was spot on at the beginning , middle and the end. A super clean cut as the blade promised.

I think the Festool Carvex 420 still has an issue with cutting a straight line. This can be improved by using the "RIGHT" blade.

I would like to see clearer Info for the carvex blades made available on line ( at least thats the case on the german mother site). When you put in spare parts for Carvex 420 they are showing a limited specification page, it would be better if it was the same as the existing 2011-12 catalogue. Or better.
I really like the american Festool site cos the info is more detailed and clearer and in bigger print.

e.g. German site
S75/4 FS5 Beschreibung:
• Universalblatt für alle Holzarten und Holzwerkstoffe
• konisch geschliffene Blätter für sauberen, winkelgerechten Schnitt

USA site
Thicker than any other jigsaw blade, the Festool TRION is the standard by which other blades are measured. When combined with the Festool jigsaw, the S 75/4 FS TRION is capable of making perpendicular cuts in hard to cut materials up to 2 1/8 inches thick with speed and ease. The cross-set tooth design is ideally suited for making very fast cuts in softwoods, hardwoods, melamine, veneered plywood, and chipboard, among many others Festool jigsaw blades are engineered for cutting efficiency, long life, and superior cutting results, with a universal T-shank design that fits most professional jigsaws. Festool has the right blade for any application or type of material, ensuring precise and consistent results. In order to select the right jigsaw blade for your application, think first about the type of material you want to cut, since there are blades available for wood, plastics, non-ferrous metals, steel, and special materials like fiberglass, foam, and other materials. Next decide what kind of cut you need: fine, fast, scroll, clean. This will help to decide which blade is right for you. All Festool jigsaw blades are from high-quality materials for the best possible cutting results. Pack of 5 jigsaw blades.

Pip
 
In my flu fugged haze after doing the short video I went on to do some cuts in 35mm oak. I initially had a squareness issue because I had not set the pendulum back to setting 3. In position 0 or 1 the saw is not given the chance to keep to a line.

Pip is right about the Festool web site. It really needs to be brought up to date as far as Carvex blades are concerned - they even show the old Trion photos.

I have been using just 3 of the new Carvex blades (75, 105 and 145) and they all perform brilliantly and have plenty of life left in them after all of my testing.

Circle cutting is really good (we have seen excellent results before) and even a 55mm freehand circle in kitchen work top comes out clean and square.

The review vido should be finished in the next 24 hours. Expect a good result,

Peter
 
I went to the d&m tool show today and tryed the new jigsaw in a chunk of kitchen laminated w,top and it worked fine good perpendicular curved cuts.

no issues at all.
 
Any of our other forum members from Europe have experiences they want to share about the Carvex 420 and it's performance?
 
I ran the same test in 90mm x 90mm deck post.  The cut was a little slow but the post was lying outside for years so not very dry  [embarassed]

The saw cut it fine.  Dead square at the start & by the end of the cut the post was out of square by approx 1mm in 90mm depth.  I'm happy with that !  Now, enough of this cutting silly lumps of wood, can we concentrate what jigsaws were meant to cut  [smile].

I was going to post a vid but not sure how to do it & when i tried to mail it to Shane it was far to large to send  [embarassed]  Peter covered it anyway  [thumbs up]

Woodguy.
 
Festool UK picked up my Carvex the other day!  

Second time this happened. I contacted my dealer to tell him I want my tool picking up he then contacts festool UK.   Then festool UK are meant to call me up but they dont lol.    

They just send some one to pick up the tool and i get a call from the currier saying where is this parcel which needs picking up?  Then I say I didnt know you was coming ill leave it out side 2moro sorry.   No big deal doesn't bother me! just seems a shame waisting some ones time to come round my house for no reason.  

Well I assume like they pick up my carvex Ill have it returned to me randomly. So it will be like a surprise one day when I come home!  

Ill do a video if I get one!

JMB    

 
A very detailed question but Please can someone explain the difference in speeds between the two different handle shapes?  The one starts at 1000 rpm, the other at 1500. I am just curious as to WHY.
Thanks in advance
Richard
 
Richard
The machine i have has 3 on /off switches.

Like the barrel model, it has the slide switches on the sides, this turns the machine on with a higher start speed to what ever you have set the little speed wheel on the side to.
The trigger in the Handle is a variable speed switch (like on a drill) so it has a much softer start with a lower start speed.

I hope that helps
 
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