Should I buy the horizontal base? MFK 700

[joshl_1995]

Hey Everyone,
I've just purchased the MFK 700 EQ/B-Plus, so my main question is. Should I bother buying either the 1.5 or 0 degree base? or could I do everything with the vertical base? Without a proper understanding it looks like I can do everything with the provided base that the 0 base can do. To me it look more like a comfortability aspect of using the tool and maybe just to make things easier.

To give a bit of insight, I'm a cabinet maker and what I would use the trimmer for is some:

• Light duty rebating (shallow routing)
• Trimming edge banding (when edged by hand including cleaning up shark nose fronts (I mainly use a full edge banding machine to do most straight edges))
• Trimming laminate (full flat faces and edges (example, when making floating shelves))
• Flush cutting
• Putting round over on paintable panels and some timber
• Proper more but these are the main uses.

I only ask for further advice mainly from those who own both bases and know the exact differences, or better yet from those who have had the same question and have found out first hand how much the 1.5 (or 0) degree base it worth it. (especially for the $399 AUD the 1.5 sells for).

Thanks in advance.

 

[luvmytoolz]

As with many others here I have both bases and find them invaluable. Others will weigh in for sure as the MFK700 is hugely popular, especially with the cabinet makers, but in my opinion you'd definitely want the 1.5 degree at a minimum.

 

[joshl_1995]

As with many others here I have both bases and find them invaluable. Others will weigh in for sure as the MFK700 is hugely popular, especially with the cabinet makers, but in my opinion you'd definitely want the 1.5 degree at a minimum.

In my example of what I'd use mine for, which of those would each plate be best for?

To me, one thought was I could use either the 1.5 base to trim edge banding, or just use the normal base and use a planer bit then I wouldn't need the 1.5 base.

 

[tjbnwi]

If you need to do a thickened edge the 0º horizontal base is the answer.

I have 3 700’s, different base on each one. Grab it one you need and do the trimming.

Tom

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I wasn't aware that the EQ/B didn't come with the 1.5 degree horizontal base, but it makes sense, since it costs quite a bit less. As a cabinet maker, I would say that you could absolutely benefit from it, though it does depend on what kind of edging you use. The normal/vertical EB base is perfectly fine for the usual PVC and other thin edges.
Where I find the horizontal base to be the most useful, is with thicker hardwood edges, such as shelving.
"Theoretically" the vertical base and a planer type bit could flush up this kind of edge, but it is spinning the "wrong way"
Spinning circles on the surface is not the smoothest way to trim this. The horizontal base makes the bit act more like a planer or jointer, producing a much smoother cut.
I like the MFK700 so much that I have 2 of them. I keep the 0 degree base on one, set for wide edges, and the other can do whatever else I need from it. The offset of the handle/base makes the vertical base feel much more stable that the typical laminate trimmer.

As a cabinet maker, I wouldn't be without one. I use mine nearly every day.

 

[JMDUK]

I had the same dilemma. One day using the vertical base with a planer bit and I immediately ordered the horizontal 0 degree base and a trimmer bit.

The planer bit would cause occasional splintering on edging, and was much harder to dial in especially on ply, as the cutter diameter is much larger thus increasing the likelihood of interacting with humps in the wood.

Horizontal base with the trimmer bit saw an immediate improvement in edge cut quality and faster, more accurate height adjustment. It’s also much more ergonomic to use giving superior control when pulling the router towards you on the first pass, a lot like a Japanese hand plane.

I still use the vertical base for edge profiles (roundovers, chamfers), thankfully it’s so quick and easy to swap between bases it’s no issue.

 

[hdv]

I have 2 of them. Just like CRG one is permanently set up for trimming edges. The other one is set up for any task at hand at that time. It can be a bit finicky to have the 0 degree base adjusted exactly right for trimming horizontally, but once you managed to get it perfectly right it will stay that way. I often have solid wood edges of about 6 mm thick glued to the edges of phenolic coated plywood. That is why I have to take some extra time to get it just right. With plain wood you could sand the surface to remove any scratches, but with this material that is not possible.

I you decide to go that way, then take a look at the Paul Marcel hack for the horizontal base to make it a bit more useful.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I have 2 of them. Just like CRG one is permanently set up for trimming edges. The other one is set up for any task at hand at that time. It can be a bit finicky to have the 0 degree base adjusted exactly right for trimming horizontally, but once you managed to get it perfectly right it will stay that way. I often have solid wood edges of about 6 mm thick glued to the edges of phenolic coated plywood. That is why I have to take some extra time to get it just right. With plain wood you could sand the surface to remove any scratches, but with this material that is not possible.

I you decide to go that way, then take a look at the Paul Marcel hack for the horizontal base to make it a bit more useful.

Agreed 100%. Much of my initial curiosity and knowledge came from Paul's videos. I took it a bit further with a much bigger bit though. Mine is 3/4" diameter and 1" cut length, with an 8mm shank. It does a fantastic job on the 3/4" thick edges, that I often cut.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Agreed 100%. Much of my initial curiosity and knowledge came from Paul's videos. I took it a bit further with a much bigger bit though. Mine is 3/4" diameter and 1" cut length, with an 8mm shank. It does a fantastic job on the 3/4" thick edges, that I often cut.

Ha! Nice, much later, I did a similar mod to the mod to get more depth as a bit I really wanted was a hair too long. I almost always use a bit with an end bearing since it helps with setting the height and helps avoid me doing something clumsy leaving a divot to fix

 

[joshl_1995]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I ended up pulling the pin on it.

However I'm suddenly almost regretting the purchase upon finding out none of my bits will fit (too long) Paul Marcel, how did you go about cutting the plate bigger? Due to the $399 (AUD) I paid, I really don't want to stuff it up.

 

[PaulMarcel]

Thanks everyone for the advice, I ended up pulling the pin on it.

However I'm suddenly almost regretting the purchase upon finding out none of my bits will fit (too long) Paul Marcel, how did you go about cutting the plate bigger? Due to the $399 (AUD) I paid, I really don't want to stuff it up.

Here's a link to a blog article on extending the capacity of the MFK-700. Whoa... been awhile...

 

[joshl_1995]

Thanks so much. I'm definitely doing this mod. Ain't no way I'm buying all new trimmer bits too.

 

[PaulMarcel]

One thing I did after that article when I got a bit slightly longer was to make the stepped portion larger. Think of it this way: when you cut out a U-shape to make more room for the bit, the step of the base (viewed from side) still allows the stock to get to that extended area. Since I later made the U deeper, the step portion did not go far enough so I couldn't get stock out to the tip (this bit I was using had an overly long shank; felt like cutting it haha). To fix this, I used a flat-top blade, double-stick taped the base to a rider board, and ran it through the table saw (um, blade brake deactivated) to make the step about 10mm wider.

 

[joshl_1995]

Could you attach some photos of it

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I did mine with a small milling machine, rather than sawing, but the end results are similar.
There is one down-side to this, with really thick edges, and that only applies to corners. Even with the "batt wings" removed, there is not enough space between the base plate and the collet nut to go around a mitered corner, with 3/4" thick edges. It will follow a radius all day long, but a mitered corner is a no-go. IIRC, it will work with 1/2", but that's it.
As I said before, after the DF500, MFK700 is my next most critical specialty tool..... and I still blame credit Paul
That's maybe not entirely true, that TS60 is quite valuable to me too.
That said, the combination of those three, becomes the essential kit for what most cabinet makers do. Carcass joinery, face frame joinery, shelf edge alignment and trimming, carcass panel cut out. Throw an OF1010 in the mix and you have adjustable shelf pin drilling too.

---

 

[Coen]

The MFK/OFK 700 keeps causing confusion. I don't understand why Festool just doesn't make a page that clearly shows the five different bases with a description.

"Five?!" you ask? Yes

1) Vertical base with partially thickened base to trim edge banding from above, as included in the EQ/B version
2) Normal vertical base mainly for use with parallel guide or bits with guide bearing
3) As 2) but with threading for porter cable bearing bushes, sold only in USA
4) Horizontal base 0°
5) Horizontal base 1,5°

The 3rd one is shown on European Festool pages... but not sold there

 

[Crazyraceguy]

I learned here, several years ago, about the European version. It seems rather odd that they would go to such trouble? The adapter to use the Porter-Cable bushes in the OF1400 or OF1010, makes sense. It's simple and easy, but another base entirely for the MFK, seems like a lot. Certainly, the threaded P-C bushes are available there, aren't they?
I get it, to some degree anyway, one company doesn't want to manufacture a product that is designed around another's accessory. However, they did that anyway, by making the adapters.
At one time, I considered getting one of the EQ/B bases, but the ability to use the horizontal base in the same way, fills that void. I realize that it doesn't employ the use of the bearing stop, but I'm not convinced that it is necessary.

Ignore the follower bearing, mounted to the side. It is for horizontal mode, but doesn't interfere, so I left it on.

 

[Coen]

At one time, I considered getting one of the EQ/B bases, but the ability to use the horizontal base in the same way, fills that void. I realize that it doesn't employ the use of the bearing stop, but I'm not convinced that it is necessary.

Ooooh. I didn't realize that!

Certainly, the threaded P-C bushes are available there, aren't they?

Have yet to see them in the wild. But for sure someone is selling them.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Ooooh. I didn't realize that!



Have yet to see them in the wild. But for sure someone is selling them.

That's a little surprising. Do you guys get something different in the Systainer with either of the OF?
Both the 1400 and 1010 come with adapters to use the Poter-Cable bushes, so I would assume you don't get those, if the bushes aren't available to go with them.
I have always thought the 8mm collet in the OF1400 was odd, for the same reason. A few years ago, 8mm bits were extremely rare, even the Festool ones.