six-point socket's tidbits of Home Improvement, small projects and other stuff.

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The original plan was to remove the radiator and paint it. Then paint the recess and pipes. Re-install.

The heating switches off automatically during summer so the radiator's valve is always open. (Also because it's a pita to open close it while the cover was installed ...) I was curious to see, if the vlave would still turn. Of course not.

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Ok, a new valve complete upper and lower part. But when you remove it anyway ...

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You can also just replace the radiator.

Still waiting on the flexible radiator connectors, hopefully they arrive on Monday.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
So, today the flexible radiator connectors arrive.

I've used them before, and did post about them here:https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/home-improvement-other-projects/'quick-and-dirty'-basement-door-repair/msg572903/#msg572903

This time I'm using the shorter version:

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Now I wanted to be smart, the pipes have 3/8" threading, so I bought the also needed flow and return valves in 3/8". (I wanted to skip the part where I thread the pipes again ...)  I was sure, since 1/2" is today's standard, that the connection to the radiator would be 1/2" (Eurokonus 1/2" with 3/4" union nut). Turns out, I tried to be smarter than good for me.  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]

So the 3/8" flow and return valves are going back, in return I get the 1/2" valves, and two reduction pieces 1/2" (outer thread) x 3/8" (inner thread) - and I will have to ad a few threads to the pipes.

Here's a picture of the wrong combination:

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 
six-point socket II said:
And I got me a thin, stainless steel T-Square with cast iron stop...
Nice one.
Do you mind sharing make/model?
EDIT: - Found it already: Rumold 313070. :)

I have recently been missing a longer square in the shop.
Had a cheap Aluminium one, but it does not hold an angle... [emoji58]
 
grobkuschelig said:
six-point socket II said:
And I got me a thin, stainless steel T-Square with cast iron stop...
Nice one.
Do you mind sharing make/model?
EDIT: - Found it already: Rumold 313070. :)

I have recently been missing a longer square in the shop.
Had a cheap Aluminium one, but it does not hold an angle... [emoji58]

You got it. :)

Sorry, I couldn't reply sooner.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Plywood delivery

4x 4mm 1525x1525
1x 15mm 1500x3000

The 15mm sheet sadly has a couple of deep cuts in it, those go through at least 1 or two layers. I'm happy I caught it while unloading - it will lead to 0,2x0,8m waste. I will be able to place my cuts around it, made a new cut list/ sketch so tomorrow I will agree to a little discount for the sheet, instead of having it exchanged - which they both offered immediately.

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The smaller 4mm sheets were attached to the backside, so you can't see them in the picture. I'm really, really pleased with their quality. They came very cheap (14 bucks a sheet), so I was worried a bit what kind of surface they would have.

Kind,
Oliver
 
Color samples for the built-in cabinet.

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First part of the 1/2" valve delivery arrived. That almost triggered me. One part is shipped directly from the manufacturer, the rest is shipped from the dealer. I really "hate" this, it's such a waste. Especially for these small parts that are easily stocked ....

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My better half wanted to have one of these french rotating soaps for ages, so we got one and I installed it. Drilling in tiles is always adventurous. ;)

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 
I like your soap holder Oliver, something you're not likely to find over here.

I have never seen one but that does not mean they don't exist here.
 
Thanks Bob! They are not that common here either, it's basically just two "rather special" deparment type stores that sell them, and a store with similar concept from the Netherlands and Belgium. It's really a French product. The idea is not having soap lying in a tray with water, and the soap can dry really quick. It's very hygienic and looks "tidy" and clean. The story is that many French restaurants, schools, other public buildings use these in their restrooms. Personally I can't really account for that "story", haven't been to France in ages, last time was when I proposed to my better half, and I don't recall seeing many of them.

But it's a neat product.http://www.provendi.net/en/index.aspx

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Hi!

It's cooling down here, so I used the mild weather to cut the doors, from the 15mm plywood sheet.

Checking the measuring tools.

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Turning two into one.

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I love my outdoor workshop during these mild temperatures!

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Doors cut. Behind them are the 4 sheets of 4mm plywood.

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Sawdust is man glitter.  [big grin] [big grin] [big grin]  [wink]

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And the leftover scraps from that 1,50x3,00m sheet of 15mm plywood.

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Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Scraps of Baltic plywood are like money in the bank. That rainy day when a wild idea hits will come and I won't even have to leave the shop. Scraps sure, but not really.
 
Very true.  [big grin]

I wasn't meaning to imply that these are going to be trashed/ or anything like that - these will be saved for whatever use comes up.  [wink]

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
Imemiter said:
Scraps of Baltic plywood are like money in the bank. That rainy day when a wild idea hits will come and I won't even have to leave the shop. Scraps sure, but not really.

Of course it is, it’s “gold” just as a workshop plastic tub full of all kinds of washers for mechanics  [big grin]
 
FestitaMakool said:
Of course it is, it’s “gold” just as a workshop plastic tub full of all kinds of washers for mechanics  [big grin]

I inherited my FIL's bolt bucket and its surprising how often I "go to the well" and come up with the very thing I need. Or something close enough.  :)
 
Let's continue, shall we? The old radiator had to go.

No big deal. Just shut off all radiators in the house, close the return valves as well. Shut off the diaphragm type expansion tank & switch of the heating/furnace. Then the water is drained.

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Extending the 3/8" threading. (Dies have been switched, so I can use it with the short end first) [member=167]neilc[/member] : Thank you again for bringing up the point of securing the pipe when threading, back when I did it for the first time and didn't do it. This time it was absolutely necessary.

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Since I'm going to paint the wall, I wanted the old brackets gone for good. No problem when using a small rotary hammer.

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Fitting the reducer 3/8" inner threading x 1/2" outer threading and flow and return valve.

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Aftermath.

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First layers of mud to fix the wall.

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To be continued.

Next steps: Painting the pipes and wall.

Kind regards,
Oliver
 
I see you using those red Tanos assortment boxes.  I have six and find them to be very useful.  And I found them at Lee Valley here in the US/Canada for $10 US each. 

Glad the threading worked for you.  I was working on an old radiator installed in the 30’s and unfortunately, the inlet pipe had too much rust to remove easily.  Meaning, it broke off before I could get it out.  Thankfully, an extractor saved the day.  But anytime I see old steel I’m doing my best to make sure I don’t screw things up!
 
Alex said:
Mud...? to fix the wall, just use a plaster like rotband.

Mud is what Americans call plaster or concrete or sand mixed with water. Reminder: American English has a high meaning to word ratio.The average American uses less than 1500 diff words in daily usage. It makes it very hard to have a clear conversation, because there is no nuance… Just listen to Potus45 and QED!
 
Bert, thanks, but I didn't really need that lesson to improve one of the 5 languages I speak, I am well aware of the nuances of the word mud.

What I meant is, it seems Oliver is using cement to fill the holes, and it is much easier and better to use plaster.
 
Cement has its uses — and seeing how it was applied plaster will be applied soon enough after this…

BTW Yealous, bc I only have 3 languages and a limited ability in three others. : )
 
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