six-point socket's tidbits of Home Improvement, small projects and other stuff.

[six-point socket II]

Oh, come on [member=10147]jobsworth[/member] , I saw your laundry room cabinets - that are much nicer than that sheet of laminated, oriented strand board I used to make that "shelve" above our washing machine and dryer!

Today was an easy day. Sanded down the cover of the build-in with Festool Granat 180 grit - and oiled it with Festool's One-Step oil.

Now I'm on a forced break until Tuesday, my math was wrong and I didn't order enough of the Osmo hardwax-oil, both colored as well as the satin clear coat.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[sancho57]

Thank you Oliver,

All the work you do made me feel guilty.

I had to do something [big grin]

 

[six-point socket II]

Hi!

So my parcel with the much needed Osmo oil finally arrived after going sightseeing in our beautiful county/state. DHL decided it was well worth it to let it take some extra trips before delivering it.  [big grin]

So I could finally finish (color) the other sides of the doors today, while listening to Apple Music's "Jazz" curated station. Coltrane, Basie, Armstrong, Davis ...

Preparing the paintbrush. This was a trick an acquaintance on another (German) woodworking community mentioned, and it works well. Simply draw the paintbrush over sandpaper, and that will catch (most of) the loose hairs. Sadly I still had to "fish" for about a handful of hairs from my workpieces after the treatment.

Even though I used painter's pyramids and was pretty careful while oiling, on some boards oil had accumulated and dried on the underside - so I needed to remove that first. Some hand sanding was in order.

Then I started to apply the oil.

That was finished rather quick. Tomorrow I'll finish the doors on both sides with a transparent oil that will leave a satin finish.

Then it was time - while enjoying a Whisky (Glenmorangie, The Lasanta, 12 Jahre) - and being accompanied by the wonderful voice of Halie Loren (Stages, 2012) - to watch the oil dry. And enjoy the built quality and heft of my wonderful Lie-Nieseln bronze plane. (#102). Such an amazing tool and immediately sent me dreaming about how and where to use it next ...  [big grin]

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[sancho57]

Looks like youre living the dream buddy

 

[six-point socket II]

Looks like youre living the dream buddy

It sure feels like it at the moment!

Thanks!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[six-point socket II]

Today I oiled bot sides of the doors for a second time. (Osmo Hardwax-Oil 3032 clear, satin finish.)

Tomorrow I bring them back into the basement, to get used to the different temperature and humidity. Then I will install them and the necessary hardware.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[six-point socket II]

Hi!

Finally, the first part of installing the doors and other final touches.

First I practiced all of my steps once on some scraps. That worked.

Then I used a scrap piece of 15mm ply to exactly determine the needed depth.

After that it was time to repeat it on an actual door that I'm going to use.

After that, everything sped up and I had the first door installed in no time.

The Festool CE drill/jacobs chuck adaptor is really neat and it worked amazing. Being able to remove the Zobo bit together with the CE chuck speed up my process of "pre-drilling", removing the pilot pin, drill to exact required depth! It made the whole process possible, it wouldn't have worked out that comfortable in any other way. Except for maybe when you would have a positive stop/guide. What has been a little pesky is getting the wood/timber from that little pilot hole when there is no tip or drill bit installed. You either have to clean it manually, or insert a tip and push the wood/timber out.

I called it a day after having installed 5 doors and some "in between" stuff. Will do the missing two tomorrow, but also the fine tuning/ true final touches.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[six-point socket II]

Today it should have been all about the finishing/ final touches.

So I started by installing the last door. drilled two holes for the concealed hinges, and thats when it happened. I don't know why, I didn't mess with the settings/ change them as I knew I had to drill a couple more holes today. And the first hole was no problem/ perfect as those I drilled yesterday - this is what the second looked like:

I decided to install the door, at least to see how it would fit. And of course, of all doors, it was the one that fit best right away. Of course not counting my mishap. Since you can't spot the damage if you're not pressing against it from behind, and since it's on the far end, all under the staircase I decided to use the door as is.

There still was another problem:

I decided to cut a new door for the right side, since I had to cut a tiny "bucket" door for beneath it, anyway.

I installed the handles by using a template, the 4mm multiplex are indeed gold for something like this.

And then it was all said an done - basically:

I will remove the right door on the left, and the tiny "bucket" door one of these days, remove the hinges and coat them. This I can do in the basement.

So far so good - project finished.

Thank you for hanging out with me & commenting, here in my thread!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[CeeJay]

That’s very annoying when the hinge cutter breaks through like that Oliver. I’ve had it happen too.

I think it’s due to internal defects in the ply, where a piece comes loose and is then churning around under the bit. I don’t tend to see it in MDF.

Usually I fill the base of the hole with a wood-dust/glue mix, install the hinge, then clamp the damaged face with a flat spacer board. That generally is enough for all but the expert eye to pick.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[six-point socket II]

Thank you CeeJay, that is great advice, I will do that - as it is no problem to remove the door. (The hinges have a spring loaded quick connect/disconnect feature, and all adjustments remain set.)

Thank you!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[nclemmons]

Nice work Oliver - Agree with CeeJay that a small piece of veneer or just thin ply wood inside the hinge pocket with glue and clamping would conceal that issue.

Quite a nice change.  And the ply seems to have some nice figure in it to add to the quality of your work!

Thanks for the detailed photos!

 

[six-point socket II]

Thank you Neil! Yes, I will definitely correct that little mishap as explained by CeeJay & you! I actually feel a bit stupid for not thinking of a solution like this.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[FestitaMakool]

Nice work Oliver!
Sorry about your very small mishap, they tend to happen - even to professionals  [wink]
As explained by others; some glue, additional pieces or wood dust mixed with glue makes it right.

I do often experience chips come loose, especially on ply, but also on solid wood. Cure is; find the chip that came off and glue it back on. It does not look great right away, but after sanding and finishing - most blemishes disappears completely. That’s the beauty of working with wood [smile]

 

[six-point socket II]

Thank you Stig!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[Tinker]

I think I might have written my idea on another thread. It just seems to be appropriate here.

I had a teacher/mentor who came out with many observations.

A good mechanic is a man who can cover up any mistakes he makes.

 

[six-point socket II]

Love that! And, great to hear from you!

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[RKA]

Playing a bit of catch up in this thread.  Those pipes...yuck!  Love that plane, so handy, nice heft and fits in the palm just right.  The blowout on the door?  My best guess is the weight of the door cantilevered off an edge lifted that end of the door ever so slightly?  Whatever it was, it happens.  As was said above, thankfully wood is an easier medium to conceal what goes wrong.  Great job on the basement project!  Your patience is greater than mine.  Too many fiddly bits in this job, I would have jumped out a window before it was done. 

So what’s next on the project list?

 

[six-point socket II]

Thank you very much, Raj!

Today it was about upgrading the basement workshop/ enhancing the usability of my work table.

I was introduced to this earlier this year on a German woodworking community forum. It's a Swiss company that makes quite some innovative products, among them a vise to attach to the front/face of a working table. But they also make hand planes and chisels with exchangeable carbide blades, aimed at tradespeople with a lot of "on site" work that can't set up, or don't want to, setup sharpening equipment. Personally, I think they lack a "soul", but they definitely serve a purpose. But the vise seemed to be a great product, especially after quite a few people I trust have had great results with it, over quite some time of actual use.

The RALI press evolution 1100 mm
https://rali-shop.com/vice/rali-press-evo-1100-mm.html  Please make sure you check out the demo video on the bottom of that site.

Packaged.

Scope of supply for the 1100 mm variant.

Drilling with help of the piloting/centering device. (Included with purchase.)

Connector.

Driving the T25 head screws. Bracket for easy installation and squaring it up visible on right side. (Included with purchase.)

Ready to use.

One word, ingenious. It's really a fantastic addition to the basement workshop/ enhancement of my work table.

Kind regards,
Oliver

 

[hdv]

That's an interesting piece of kit! Please keep us posted on your experiences with it. I am really curious to see how versatile and sturdy it proves to be in your workshop.

 

[FestitaMakool]

That’s very interesting Oliver. Can’t you just start a shop for exotic tools?  [big grin]

It reminds me of the old Zyliss 4in1 vice. I recently got hold of one of these in mint condition.

It’s been featured in here as well:https://festoolownersgroup.com/index.php?pretty;board=festool-jigs-tool-enhancements;topic=mft-and-zyliss-vise.0