Small cordless planer

[rmwarren]

I tend to think of planes for trueing a long-ish edge, the shorter the plane the shorter the edge you can true easily. This overlooks simply knocking a bump off of a board.

I've been trying to come up with a justification for the 12v Milwaukee but so far it's eluded me. Seems like it'd be handy to have in the arsenal but I'm doubting I'd use it often.

Aside from scribing, what would you actually use one for on a regular basis?

RMW

 

[woodferret]

Scrub plane to get the worst of cups and twists out before hitting a jointer or maybe even straight to planer (for skip planing).... at least that what I said to myself... have yet to actually pull the trigger and get the m12.

edit: to clarify, the m12 as a scrub plane.

 

[mino]

I tend to think of planes for trueing a long-ish edge, the shorter the plane the shorter the edge you can true easily. This overlooks simply knocking a bump off of a board.

I've been trying to come up with a justification for the 12v Milwaukee but so far it's eluded me. Seems like it'd be handy to have in the arsenal but I'm doubting I'd use it often.

Aside from scribing, what would you actually use one for on a regular basis?

RMW

Carpentry
- flattening structural framing surface when plywood/drywall/etc. needs to be put over them. Especially when repair/rebuild of a part.
- lightly planing raw (wet) framing for roof and/or external structures for easthetics
- removing bumps, basically anything where the shape of structural element needs to be adjusted kinda ad-hoc
- chamfering framing edges
- last but not least, renewing timber that was left on the outside for some time

Cabinetry
- rabbets where abrsolute precision is not required
- hmm, a good question ...

In general, bar the comment about removing rough sports before jointing, I would say a hand planer is the tool to use mostly where one would not run the wood through a joiner or a planer for one reason and the other. Like it is already installed, is too bent, too big, etc.

Before I had a hand planer (not Festool, same size as HL850), I did not know I needed one. Since I got it for a specific work, I use it quite often for a small job here and there where I would have previously went for an aggressive sander (and a lot of dust along with it).

In a way, ROTEX can be probably seen as the best substitude of a hand planer as far as what it can do. Albeit planer is still way faster and unlike a ROTEX it can reasonably flatten a rough beam.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Whilst we are on the subject  of planers, does anyone know  how to remove the planing head from an ehl65e?

This pic of your part looks pretty similar to the 850, I'm guessing if you remove that slim black cover, there'll be a bolt in the end of the cutterhead you undo to slide it off the bearing assembly?
[attachimg=1]

 

[rmwarren]

I tend to think of planes for trueing a long-ish edge, the shorter the plane the shorter the edge you can true easily. This overlooks simply knocking a bump off of a board.

I've been trying to come up with a justification for the 12v Milwaukee but so far it's eluded me. Seems like it'd be handy to have in the arsenal but I'm doubting I'd use it often.

Aside from scribing, what would you actually use one for on a regular basis?

RMW

Carpentry
- flattening structural framing surface when plywood/drywall/etc. needs to be put over them. Especially when repair/rebuild of a part.
- lightly planing raw (wet) framing for roof and/or external structures for easthetics
- removing bumps, basically anything where the shape of structural element needs to be adjusted kinda ad-hoc
- chamfering framing edges
- last but not least, renewing timber that was left on the outside for some time

Cabinetry
- rabbets where abrsolute precision is not required
- hmm, a good question ...

In general, bar the comment about removing rough sports before jointing, I would say a hand planer is the tool to use mostly where one would not run the wood through a joiner or a planer for one reason and the other. Like it is already installed, is too bent, too big, etc.

Before I had a hand planer (not Festool, same size as HL850), I did not know I needed one. Since I got it for a specific work, I use it quite often for a small job here and there where I would have previously went for an aggressive sander (and a lot of dust along with it).

In a way, ROTEX can be probably seen as the best substitude of a hand planer as far as what it can do. Albeit planer is still way faster and unlike a ROTEX it can reasonably flatten a rough beam.

Good comparison with Rotex. I don't run into many of the situations described, may be on the clubhouse turn as it comes to major carpentry projects. If I run into any rough framing in need of straightening or resizing I'd probably reach for the RAS or an angle grinder with a coarse flat disk.

Thanks for the input, still can't convince myself I need one regardless how I try.

RMW

 

[todor4o83]

Todor4o83, where did you quire the hose attachment? A end has the same planer and was looking for one.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

Hi. I’ve made it. This is a link to my video how I done it.=B1kwVnVvw9bNeGaX

 

[Dansm]

I’m glad to see this as an active topic.

I’ve been looking at other planers but none that I have seen do the EH65 plane-to-edge. IF Festool do do this (hopefully with the ACA Ergo) they will also use a spiral planer barrel which would be a game changer and a winner.

 

[derekcohen]

I have the EHL65E and recently purchased a spiral helix head for it. It is also available for the HL850.
https://www.csptooling.com/collections/spiral-shear-helix-cuttethead-for-machines

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[luvmytoolz]

[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] I fitted the CSP Tooling spiral head in my HL850 last year and it's a game changer, unbelievably great!

 

[squall_line]

[member=4358]derekcohen[/member] I fitted the CSP Tooling spiral head in my HL850 last year and it's a game changer, unbelievably great!

Did you guys get the spiral or the "real shear" spiral? I'm guessing the main difference is the angle of the bits in relation to the surface?

 

[mino]

Did you guys get the spiral or the "real shear" spiral? I'm guessing the main difference is the angle of the bits in relation to the surface?

All heads available on the HL 850 are actually spiral heads.
--
What derek meant most likely is he got a segmented spiral head.

Context:
Most planers do not come with single-blade spiral heads as it makes the blades tricky to manufacture and adjust, hence expensive .. The HL 850 series is literally exceptional at this. For decades, but still exceptional.

With the recent emergence of segmented heads - by necessity the segments are in a spiral - folk English now associates "spiral" with "segmented" .. which are in no way the same thing ..

 

[squall_line]

All heads available on the HL 850 are actually spiral heads.
--
What derek meant most likely is he got a segmented spiral head.

Context:
Most planers do not come with single-blade spiral heads as it makes the blades tricky to manufacture and adjust, hence expensive .. The HL 850 series is literally exceptional at this. For decades, but still exceptional.

With the recent emergence of segmented heads - by necessity the segments are in a spiral - folk English now associates "spiral" with "segmented" .. which are in no way the same thing ..

CSP tooling sells two different heads - they call them "spiral cutterhead" and "real shear helical". Both versions use segmented cutter heads/inserts. Nothing on the website states the difference between the two; I'd probably have to find a post on their Instagram feed for the details.