Social Distancing Gym

JayStPeter

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Joined
Jan 24, 2007
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399
When the gym closed down I kind of freaked out.  I have had misdiagnosed Lyme disease for a long time and was walking around like an 80 year old man a few decades too early.  I am just now starting to feel more my age and working out has been helping to loosen up (for lack of a better term) some of the arthritis that I've been dealing with for a while.  I immediately went to the local sporting goods store that will not show what you want if you put the wrong term in your browser and grabbed a set of bumper plates and a bar.  The boys had an old bench and one of those above the door pullup bars that keep you suspended by a couple 15g nails that probably didn't even hit studs.  So I cleaned up the garage and have been using this.

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I need a bit more, so I went to the local box store.  I processed some plywood with the tracksaw/parallel guides and MFT.

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Some stencil work and I have a self branded plyo box

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I decided to order a nice squat rack from Rogue fitness.  Nope.  The only thing rarer than toilet paper these days is fitness equipment.  Most of the equipment manufacturers make a line with 3x3 steel tubing using 5/8" holes for the accessories.  So, I took that design and am going to try to emulate it.  I'm hoping it will be compatible with some of the accessories.
I spent a day turning 4x4 construction lumber in to 3x3.  Then I drilled lots of holes.  I wish the drill press in the background of this pic was finished (or even started) being restored.

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At the end of today, it looks like a squat rack in pieces.  Still needs some round-overs and sanding, but the parts are there.

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Great creativity.  On the plyobox, is it a box is there some other internals in there?  Maybe a video of you using it?  [big grin]

Nice work.
 
Thanks Ron.  The plyobox is just a box.  It is 3/4" plywood, so plenty strong with no internals.  I think some of the commercial ones have internals, but I assume made of something thinner because they are much lighter.
 
I finished up the squat rack and decided to move the gym into my junk room.  The junk is partially moved out.  I made the squat rack 3x3 with 5/8" holes so I could use hooks and spotter bars from commercial racks.  Spotter bars are sold out, but i managed to get a set of decent j-hooks.

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Great Idea. A out door home gym is on m list of things to build.  Of course I have a very long list of things to build  [cool]
 
There are a few feral cats in the neighborhood and they were stalking bunnies in my back yard while I was working out yesterday.
 
When I moved 90 miles upstate there was no convenient gym.  I created my basement gym by carving out spaces. 

The best thing I made was a pull-down/push down pulley system. 

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I mounted two overhead pulleys and used 1/8” cable.  Note: My floor joists are 3” x 8” and it allowed me to screw right into the joist.  Use very long and very strong screws for this application.  You don’t want the pulley to pull loose while you are executing an exercise.

The cable runs to a stack of weights on the floor.

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Some notes:  I used 1/8” diameter cable.  It has a working load limit of 400 pounds.  That usually includes a 2x or 3x safety factor.  I never went over 180 pounds on my system.  So 1/8” diameter is more than enough.

I tried 3/16” diameter and it was hard to work with. Resist the temptation to use heavier than needed cable.

You will notice that I used swadged collars to attach the hardware. They sell what looks like a heavy duty bolt cutter with special jaws for swadging.  The machine cost about $30.00 back then, and it makes a more secure fastening.  It is also cheaper than using U-bolts.   

The larger the diameter on the pulleys, the longer the cable will last.  Examine the cable frequently.  If 2 or 3 of the strands have broken, you should replace the cable immediately.  The strands fatigue over time and smaller diameter pulleys mean faster fatigue.

From personal experience, I can attest that cable equipment must be well-maintained. 

About 50 years ago, while working out in a Jack LaLane gym, a cable gave way on the curling machine while a member was doing heavy curls.  When the cable failed, the bar completed the arc with no resistance, knocking out all of his front teeth, both top and bottom.

And personally, I was doing behind the neck pulldowns with a wide grip and 220 pounds of weight on it at a very up-scale and posh gym, when the cable failed.  I pulled the then resistance-less bar down with that same effort and hit a vertebrae on the back of my neck.  X-rays shows a hairline fracture with no displacement.  The doctor said I was very, very lucky. 

I always check the condition of the cable at the start of a workout.  (And I now do my pulldowns in front of my chest.)

The cable setup works for tricep push downs as shown.  For pulldowns, I sit on the floor.  Without any method for anchoring me to the ground, I am limited to about 2/3 body weight for pulldowns.

I got the pulley hardware from Grainger.  The rest from Dick’s Sporting Goods, and maybe also from Amazon.com.  (I really don’t recall.)

I have replaced the cables twice in 30 years, though I have found other uses for the swadging machine.  In the past I have remembered to slip a length of shrink tubing over the cut wires.  I forgot this time.  The trimmed ends of cable are your enemy.

Note:  I have made several caveats about cable systems.  In the 30 + years this has been in service, the only accident I have had was poking a small hole in my hand from a cut cable strand.  Good maintenance is really all that is required for safe use.
 
Your two examples of failure are enough to tell me to stay well clear of those cables unless I am doing the maintenance.
 
JimH2 said:
Your two examples of failure are enough to tell me to stay well clear of those cables unless I am doing the maintenance.

That was not my purpose in writing this.

The cable gives us warning that it is becoming fatigued.  Just never buy the plastic coated versions which will hide the incipient failure.

We are all familiar with metal fatigue.  Take a wire coa

t hanger and bend it back and forth in one spot and it will eventually crack.  That is metal fatigue.  The sharper the bend, the faster the fatigue occurs.  That is why larger diameter pulleys are preferred. 

So when the first few strands break, the rest will follow hard on its heels.  A quick peek at the cable where it runs over the pulley will tell you if it is safe to use or not. 

U-bolts are always suspect.  You cannot tell if they are tight or not.  The swedged fasteners are far better.

Addendum:  The curling accident I saw (I only heard the scream and the injury; I did not observe the actual accident) was on a first generation Universal Gym preacher curl machine.  There was a steel plate with cushioning; you pressed against the cushioning to execute the curl.  Later versions used an actual bar and the left side and the right side were independent.  Other versions simply had a cable and a bar and a preacher curling bench.  It was far less likely to cause such a catastrophic injury.

However, I found online this machine, which is apparently current, and a snapped cable would probably result in a similar injury.

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