Solid Wood Edgeband Trimming - MFK 700 or OF1010 for hobbyist

I posted a video above using the OF1400 with the router plate for edge banding. Unless the OP plans on buying the MFK, it would be worth it to first purchase the accessories that fit both the OF1010 and the OF1400, and try them on the OF1400 first. If it works great! If it doesn't buy the OF1010 which is what I use.
 
Peter_C said:
I posted a video above using the OF1400 with the router plate for edge banding. Unless the OP plans on buying the MFK, it would be worth it to first purchase the accessories that fit both the OF1010 and the OF1400, and try them on the OF1400 first. If it works great! If it doesn't buy the OF1010 which is what I use.

Thanks, I’ve read reviews by others who’ve done this with the OF1400 who strongly advise against it. They’ve all said the weight makes it difficult to produce consistently good results.
 
For anybody else who stumbles onto this thread, I read a very long review on Amazon for MFK 700. After reading the comments shared here and on Amazon, it seems I will be able to do a quality job with the OF1010 and get more use out of it.  If I ever get into trimming lots of edge banding, perhaps when I retire and have more time for the hobby, I’ll look at the MFK 700.

Thanks for all the input guys, now to order and see how well it works!!
 
I have the 1010 with all the edging accessories. I’ve used it many times for that purpose, it works well. I also tried using the 1400 with the accessories but it’s a beast in the horizontal position. It’s manageable for a single shot but I’d not recommend it for multiple units.

You’ll enjoy the 1010.  [big grin]  It’s my favorite.

The MFK can be a one trick pony...but it’s a good one trick pony.
 
Cheese said:
I have the 1010 with all the edging accessories. I’ve used it many times for that purpose, it works well. I also tried using the 1400 with the accessories but it’s a beast in the horizontal position. It’s manageable for a single shot but I’d not recommend it for multiple units.

You’ll enjoy the 1010.  [big grin]  It’s my favorite.

The MFK can be a one trick pony...but it’s a good one trick pony.

Thanks!!  Besides the 3 pieces which allow it to trim edge banding, do I need anything else to use it with my LR32?  I’ve not used it yet so don’t recall how it works and if I need some sort of rail guide adapter.
 
Get the centering cone if you do not have it to get the 1010 perfectly aligned to the plate. The 1010 is a great router.
 
ScotF said:
Get the centering cone if you do not have it to get the 1010 perfectly aligned to the plate. The 1010 is a great router.

I have a centering manderal or whatever which came with the LR32, will it also work for the OF1010?
 
Yep- that is the one. Need it when mounting to the LR32. You should be good to go.
 
Bugsey,

Eric at the popular shop on YouTube has a very good series on cabinet making and goes into great detail on setting up and using the LR 32. How to use the various bits like the centering mandrel and calibrating the LR32 as well.
You will need to calibrate initialy before you use it.

Calibration is easy and quick but a necessity.
 
I received the OF1010 and edging adapters yesterday.  I must say, the Green micro adjuster is rather tough to screw into the adapter plate.  In fact, I had to switch hands a few times because of how much effort it took.  Once it gets almost all the way in, there are a few spots where it spins easily like you might expect with a screw, then gets tough, then gets easy, and back to tough again.  Is this normal?

I got the chance to use the setup along with a Whiteside Flush Trim Bit (RFTD2100) on a shelf which had 3/4" edge banding on it.  Perhaps it's just this bit, but it does not cut, exact with the bearing but slightly shy of it.  Because of this, I continued to raise the edging plate to attempt flush cut, which got really close; however, this left bearing marks into the wood.  I suspect I could avoid the bearing marks by lowering the plate but then wouldn't achieve as close of a flush cut. 

That said, for those of you doing these edgings ... do I need a bearing-less bit to get it about exact or do I get as close as I can without making bearing impressions and carefully sand or hand plane any remaining lip?
 
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