Spirit level 100 or 120 (cm)?

[threesixright]

Sounds familiar, choices  [scared] ?

Looking for some recommendations, a 100 cm or 120 cm spirit level? Can't make up my mind (since it will be an electronic one), leaning towards the 100 cm.

Mainly used for cabinets.

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[Sparktrician]

I vote for the Stabila 81S.  You mention electronic levels.  Will you always remember to have batteries available, and will they be fresh?

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Levels, not keen on electronic and there’s no size fits all. Today we are installing windows and doors and the length of levels being used is 50mm, 150mm, 600mm, 800mm, 1200mm and 2000mm.
I would suggest for now, buying a level at a length close to your needs, as you will need other length at some stage

 

[demographic]

For me an 1800mm is a good size for door casing legs, 600mm for door heads and if I need a metre level I pick up a straight bit of wood and use the 600.
Oh and a boat level for the short stuff.

 

[RussellS]

Here in the USA, levels usually are 16 inch (41cm), 2 foot (61cm), 32 inch (81cm), 4 foot (122cm), 6 foot (183cm), 6.5 foot (198cm).  The 32 inch and 6.5 foot are for doors.  They fit very nicely around/inside the frame when installing.  Your 100cm and 120cm lengths are 39 and 47 inches.  4 feet for the 120cm.  That is typical.  But 39 inches, 100cm?  Not sure where that one fits.  And you mention its going to be used for cabinets.  In the USA kitchen cabinets are 36" high.  The cabinets are 34.5 inches.  For straightening cabinets height, the 32 inch 80cm would be better I think.  For leveling/aligning the tops or fronts, the 4 foot or 6 foot would be better.  For straightening the sides the 100cm or 120cm would work because that is done before the countertops are installed so having the level extend above the cabinet is OK.  But for kitchen cabinets, I'd say the door kit of the 6.5 foot and 32 inch levels might be the best ones.  And maybe a 2 foot also.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

For me an 1800mm is a good size for door casing legs, 600mm for door heads and if I need a metre level I pick up a straight bit of wood and use the 600.
Oh and a boat level for the short stuff.

Yes mate, a varied collection is useful. I’ll only buy or use Stabila though  [thumbs up]

 

[Oldwood]

For cabinets I went to a laser level. I have a few Stabila bubble levels and a electronic smart level that just about never get used since I bought the laser.

I have a Bosch GLL2-80 I am very happy with but I am sure there are others that work as well or better. Lots of treads on that topic.

 

[demographic]

Yes mate, a varied collection is useful. I’ll only buy or use Stabila though  [thumbs up]

Yeahbutnobutyeah...

600mm girder style Stabila? Yes.
1800 box level? Ive had a few Stabilas and have to say that I baby my 1800 levels. The Stabilas just don't last as well as the Stanley Fatmax's..
Ive had the Stabila yellows, the stronger Stabila Greys and not been blown away by any of the long box section levels they make.

You can tell the stronger Stabilas by the little stars by the hammer symbol.

I think I've had two that have succumbed to the dry liners doing dot and dab, you know the CLANG when some bloke brays a bit of plasterboard flat with yer level.

I don't leave mine anywhere near those Neanderthals nowadays but I'm still not blown away by the long stabila box levels.

 

[AlexThePalex]

I find both the 100 and 120 cm uncomfortable sizes. They're too long for the most common tasks and too small for the bigger tasks.

Get one of 60 or 80 cm for most common things.

I agree with Jiggy there is no one size fits all. I have levels of 5, 30, 60, 80 and 150 cm long.

I know we live in the digital age now, but what's the actual benefit of a digital level over an old fashioned air bubble?

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Yes mate, a varied collection is useful. I’ll only buy or use Stabila though  [thumbs up]

Yeahbutnobutyeah...

600mm girder style Stabila? Yes.
1800 box level? Ive had a few Stabilas and have to say that I baby my 1800 levels. The Stabilas just don't last as well as the Stanley Fatmax's..
Ive had the Stabila yellows, the stronger Stabila Greys and not been blown away by any of the long box section levels they make.

You can tell the stronger Stabilas by the little stars by the hammer symbol.

I think I've had two that have succumbed to the dry liners doing dot and dab, you know the CLANG when some bloke brays a bit of plasterboard flat with yer level.

I don't leave mine anywhere near those Neanderthals nowadays but I'm still not blown away by the long stabila box levels.

We have a few small box type Stabila but, in the longer lengths we buy the girder type now. I’ve had a good few thin box type, do an impression of a banana after a knock or being dropped. I look after all of my tools, and take extra care with the levels. The girder type seem much more durable though.
I love laser levels, especially for marking out floor levels etc but, I have a few that started reading out after a while, and they’d never been dropped either.
The small Pacific levels are good quality, and said to have the brightest beam in class. They have readers too when it’s bright, or for outdoors. Our best one is a Leica, I don’t like anybody using it, as it was obscene money.

Just like Alex, I’m not keen on the electronic levels either, I like a plain and simple bubble.
Incidentally, I had a nice level once, where the bubble was getting longer and longer, until it was no longer between the lines. Somebody told me, this is the consequence of it being left in extreme heat?
One of the apprentices used to often leave levels leaning against radiators. So, we did a test with an old beat up level. We left it leaning against a rad overnight at a customers house for about a week, and sure enough, this stretched the bubble.

I make sure they’re never left in extreme heat, or against rads now.

 

[AlexThePalex]

Just like Alex, I’m not keen on the electronic levels either, I like a plain and simple bubble.

I didn't say that, never used one and I'm just wondering what's the benefit.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Just like Alex, I’m not keen on the electronic levels either, I like a plain and simple bubble.

I didn't say that, never used one and I'm just wondering what's the benefit.

I beg your pardon Alex.
Some people say the digital levels are a better option than a bubble or vial level. The output readout can be adjusted, and can be read in metric or imperial etc, and said to switch from vertical to horizontal reading quicker than a bubble level. Some have audible warnings and beeps to indicate level/plumb, or out of level/plumb. Many digital levels have a vial/bubble still, to accompany and compare with. Sort of best or worst of both worlds.

I worry with a lot of digital tools and measures, that they can go out of calibration, or sometimes be off a fair bit. Something I've noticed with angle finders and laser levels that we've had in the past.
With a conventional level, providing it's straight and true, and the vial is sound, there's not much doubt in a reading, and less to potentially go wrong. Maybe something to be looked at in the future but, for me personally, to replace my current collection of bubble/vial levels, would be a substantial cost.

 

[Laminator]

I always found that I could move a digital level a slight amount either way without any change in the reading.  A bubble will show a change no matter how small the movement is.  I find it easier to shim something to level with a bubble. 
.

 

[Sparktrician]

Just like Alex, I’m not keen on the electronic levels either, I like a plain and simple bubble.

I didn't say that, never used one and I'm just wondering what's the benefit.

It's just a clever toy.  I'm in the bubble level contingent.  It's either level (or plumb) or it's not, and a bubble gives the best and most reliable indication of being level, provided that the level itself is true, and that's easy to test.

 

[demographic]

Bubble level or laser for me.
Can't really see why I'd need a digital one.

Forgot to mention that in additi9n to my bubble levels I have a PLS 180 with the detector for when I'm setting out outside and can't see the laser beam.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

Bubble level or laser for me.
Can't really see why I'd need a digital one.

Forgot to mention that in additi9n to my bubble levels I have a PLS 180 with the detector for when I'm setting out outside and can't see the laser beam.

PLS 180, great laser level, we have an early one, from when they were red beam only, we have a reader too.
The green beam version is great, won’t work with our reader though. So when our one gets pensioned off, we’re going green!

 

[demographic]

PLS 180, great laser level, we have an early one, from when they were red beam only, we have a reader too.
The green beam version is great, won’t work with our reader though. So when our one gets pensioned off, we’re going green!

I had a PLS 2 E first then after good service the laser died, leaving me with the detector.
So I bought the red laser PLS180 and can still use the detector from the PLS2 .

I think the green laser ones use batteries much faster than the reds (thats what the bumf said anyway) but are much more visible.

 

[Jiggy Joiner]

[member=51145]demographic[/member] yes I think you’re right. Our one went out of calibration, although it was old it was mint condition and well looked after and seldom used. I went to buy the newer better green version, and was told it wasnt compatible with our reader. The guy said contact Pacific and they will repair it. When I phoned the guy, he said it’s probably been dropped, we get loads in that are beaten up. I explained it hadn’t been dropped but, thought whatever the cost, it’s better than buying a new one.

When the laser arrived, Pacific phoned and said they couldn’t believe how good condition it was in, considering it’s age. They re calibrated for free, and it’s been fine since. They’re definitely one of the best, if not brightest palm lasers out there.

 

[DeformedTree]

I don't have a digital level, and I have a ever growing number of levels. As others mentioned you need a lot of lengths, and sometimes you need to cut one down  to the right length.

That said I've considered getting one or 2.  The issue with bubble level is at some point it comes down to you making a judgement with your eye if it is in the middle.  Often you can't get in a good postion to read the bubble straight on, you are at an odd angle and such.  There a digital could be a better answer.  I think a bubble level is good for most stuff, but there can be times when you want electronic, so I can see having both types.

It's like calipers.  Mechanical ones you can trust, but it's also really easy to mess up reading them.  Battery ones always have a dead battery.

I think this is just a place where there is a place for both.

 

[threesixright]

Thanks all for the feedback!

Myself was thinking of a Stabila 196-2 E

Reason to go with a electronic is pure luxury. It’s look like a nifty thing to be able to set for example feet of cabinet (to be leveled) via audio signal. Since the view will be a bit obscured. Also have some small projects where I need a certain slope.

I thought the Stabila (like others) have a CAL option [emoji849]

Anybody a clue if the electronic sensors are really in the ends of the level? Or is just placed dead center (my guess)? If the later, I would think you could just place a 80 cm on top of a 180 cm level (if needed) and be fairly accurate?

Sent from my X using Tapatalk