Stabila Flatness

I find the longer Stabila levels a bit too flexible for any real accuracy when it comes to flatness testing.  If you don't hold down the level firmly when you are trying to get a feeler in it will just slip under.  If you hold the level firmly to the surface it is no longer flat.  I can easily deflect my 7' heavy duty Stabila close to a 1/4" with very little force.

I agree with John that Festool rails are a much better straightedge as they will not flex when held at a right angle to the surface. 
 
levels are best for determining "level" get machinist edge and a master level for starters.
 
tallgrass said:
levels are best for determining "level" get machinist edge and a master level for starters.

Wasn't the whole point of this exercise that I didn't want to spend close to $500 to get a machinist's straight edge?

Aegwyn11 said:
thinking a 6' Stabila would might be a 'good enough' alternative to a real 6' steel straigtedge for a fraction of the price.

In any case, using the level with a dial indicator alongside the Oneway, I got my jointer calibrated such that jointed boards off it are right in spec (no more that .010" gap at the center of two 5' jointed boards held edge to edge). And I did so without having to buy a $500 chunk of steel that wouldn't get used for hardly anything else.

I do like the idea of using a Fes rail as this 'poor mans straightedge'...I wonder if someone that knows could weigh in as to IF Festool has a spec for how straight that edge is and if so, what that spec is.
 
A note of warning before using a Festool rail as a straightedge:

My 1400 long rail is not straight. I've had it for around 4 years now, and never noticed that it wasn't dead straight until I tried to edge-joint some sheets of solid surface about a year ago. It's not far out - not far enough to affect my usage of it since - but it is slightly out. If I run a piece of cotton thread along the length, I reckon it's about 0.25 - 0.4mm out in the middle...

I don't know if it's always been like that, or whether I did something to make it that way!
 
you do not have to spend 500 to get the job done. you can make some simple edges, using co-plainer points, that is cheap.
 
tallgrass said:
you do not have to spend 500 to get the job done. you can make some simple edges, using co-plainer points, that is cheap.

Can you please elaborate?
 
i will draw you an image,,, much easier to get it across. i am not ignoring your question.
 
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