Step cut with my Festool TS75EQ track saw.

[markncw]

The first time I used my saw I set it up following the manual precisely. I made a full depth (full blade extension) cut through some 3/4" plywood; toward the end of the cut, the blade was dragging the saw and the track to the right. A lot. 1/2" or so, so I stopped, I now make every cut in 2 passes and it hasn't happened since but it's costing time.

I figured it was human error. Hasn't happened since but makes me wary about full depth cuts. I also don't use the machine often enough to have had it happen again.

Anyway, when I make a 2 stage cut there's a step out of roughly 1/64" between the scoring cut and the full depth pass. I'm guessing there's a blade alignment issue going on here but wanted to see what you guys thought first. Thx

 

[thudchkr]

The first time I used my saw I set it up following the manual precisely. I made a full depth (full blade extension) cut through some 3/4" plywood; toward the end of the cut, the blade was dragging the saw and the track to the right. A lot. 1/2" or so, so I stopped, I now make every cut in 2 passes and it hasn't happened since but it's costing time.

I figured it was human error. Hasn't happened since but makes me wary about full depth cuts. I also don't use the machine often enough to have had it happen again.

Anyway, when I make a 2 stage cut there's a step out of roughly 1/64" between the scoring cut and the full depth pass. I'm guessing there's a blade alignment issue going on here but wanted to see what you guys thought first. Thx

Check to see if your blade is at 90 degrees when on the rail. If it is tipped out a little at the top, this would give you that small step you’re getting.

 

[markncw]

Thanks thudchkr. I thought about that but wouldn't that just make it a beveled cut that shouldn't be stepped either?

 

[peter halle]

Do you have burning on the sides of the cut?  Sounds like a toe in adjustment is required if the saw is pulling everything away when cutting.

Peter

 

[markncw]

Trying to remember Peter. I'll check but I think there was some burning last time. So are you thinking that the leading edge of the blade is toeing out/needs to be adjusted?

 

[Corwin]

... So are you thinking that the leading edge of the blade is toeing out/needs to be adjusted?

That's what is sounds like to me. Every so often these saws come from the factory set incorrectly. But, more often it is the result of either dropping the saw or a kickback incident.

 

[thudchkr]

Thanks thudchkr. I thought about that but wouldn't that just make it a beveled cut that shouldn't be stepped either?

Yes the cut would be beveled, but nearly straight/perpendicular. If you think about it, the top of the blade and bottom would both be at a fixed distance from the rib on your rail. If your blade is tilted, these would, however, not be the same distance. Tilted out would mean the bottom would be minutely closer than the top. If we make that scoring cut now, it will make a shallow cut, close to the rib on the rail.

Now when we plunge the saw to full depth, those bottom teeth remain at that same distance but the rest of the teeth around the arc of the blade get further from that reference location. This means those teeth in the middle of the blade are going to leave the item being cut, a little longer than the scoring cut performed earlier, and would leave a tiny step such as you describe.

One way to check it would be to butt your rail and item being cut against a fixed stop, make a scoring cut and precisely measure the distance to the edge of the groove. The make a full depth cut and do the same. Ideally, this would work best if the item being cut is thicker than the projection of your saw blade, as this would provide the most accurate assessment. Ideally, on a perfectly setup saw these two measurements would be equal. If they differ though, the saw is either out of adjustment, or the blade/saw is moving excessively during the deep cut. Minimize this when you do your test by not feeding into your test material too rapidly. Hopefully not so slow you burn your stock, but not so fast you cause the blade to wander.

Hopefully you have a better idea of what I was referring to.

 

[Corwin]

You've stated in your opening post that you followed the manual precisely. Can we assume then that you have adjusted the green Guide Rail Cams on your saw to prevent any side play on the rail? If these cams were set too loose, the result can be similar to that of having the toe-in adjustment set wrong.

The effects of toe-in or toe-out, or operating with the cams too loose, will be more pronounced the deeper the depth of cut.

Also, it seems to me that whatever is causing your saw to drag to the right is likely the same thing that is causing your stepped cuts.

Let us know how you are getting on with this issue.

 

[peter halle]

If you end up wanting to test and adjust your toe -in, the Festools supplemental manual for the TS-55 should be of assistance.  Here is a link to the banner page.  you will need to scroll down and find that pdf file:  https://www.festoolusa.com/service/owners-manuals#Saws

Peter