Struggling with CMS Router Table

[Vorpal]

Hey Guys,

I'm really new to woodworking and festool tools, but have a CMS router table. I've been struggling for hours to get the adjustments right.

Anyway, I'm trying to chamfer the end grain of a 65mm board and it simply isn't routing it straight. It's giving it a taper. I've got the fences as close to the bit as possible.

Any ideas on where I'm going wrong?

Thanks guys,

Ryan

 

[sancho57]

Need a little more info,

Does the bit your using have a bearing?

Are the fences parallel to the front of the table?

Are you ensuring that the stock is up against the fence the entire cut?

 

[Kev]

End grain? ... how are you keeping it aligned? Are you using the sliding table or just trying to hold a long board perpendicular to the fence?

Need more info .. pics are helpful too [wink]

 

[Vorpal]

Sorry guys.

Chamfer bit does have a bearing and I have the fences parallel to the front of the table. I think the length may be the issue and that the stock isn't always against the fence.

I am trying to use the sliding table, but maybe the piece is simply too small and I need to make a jig?

 

[GarryMartin]

Wouldn't chamfering end-grain be easier with the router *out* of the table and hand held? Especially as the bit has a bearing.

 

[Birdhunter]

Maybe I'm picturing this wrong, but I would not involve a fence at all.

I'd use a miter gauge set at 90 degrees and let the bearing manage the cut rather than rely on a fence setup. I'd also not try to cut the entire chamfer on one pass. I'd also use a backing board behind the work piece to avoid blow-out.

I don't have a CMS, but have looked at them extensively. I think the sliding table with the miter gauge is the best attribute of the CMS. If I had a tad more room in the shop, I'd buy the CMS.

 

[Kev]

Wouldn't chamfering end-grain be easier with the router *out* of the table and hand held? Especially as the bit has a bearing.

I tend to agree - this sounds like a "tool to the wood" not a "wood to the tool" kinda job.

 

[sancho57]

What Kev said

 

[tbellemare]

When you're using a bearing bit on the CMS the set up is different.

You don't use the fence but rather the Edge Routing Dust Shroud & Edge Guide. The Edge Guide is the CMS equivalent of a starting pin but better because it rides right up to the bearing. The bearing on the bit should be guiding your edge treatment.

You can see the set up here.

Tom

 

[Vorpal]

Thanks for the input guys. Would rather not use hand-held if possible becausd I'm routing a lot of work with the same profile. Would save a lot of time.

I was under the impression that the edge routing guide was only for curved prices. All my work is rectangular.

 

[tbellemare]

I was under the impression that the edge routing guide was only for curved prices. All my work is rectangular.

To me, the edge guide is like a starting pin on a regular router table, except safer. With rectangular stock, you stick the corner on the guide and slide it over to the bearing. Once your edge is on the bearing, just slide the edge along the bit.

Tom

 

[mouppe]

You can use the fence too, but set it back a mm or so so that it works like a starting pin. With the last pass the bearing should be proud of the fence.