Support Bracket for Guide Rail

Kapitaldream

Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2008
Messages
38
I would like to get peoples opinions as to which is better, a round knob or an index type lever. As you may know an index lever is like a ratchet, it also cost more! But what the heck you only get what you pay for.

This shows the two styles of knobs
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This is the part as intended use
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Here I have the TS75 on the rail ready to cut.
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I just cut an 1/8" piece off of a 2" fir plank
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Great idea! I especially appreciate the Festool-green nail polish on your hand model... [big grin] [big grin]

Definitely the adjustable handle, I think you will need the extra torque when using the clamps to snug them down a bit.

RMW
 
steve. i hope that is your finger. that is serious brand loyalty.

i prefer the ratchet handle but only the good quality or metal ones as the cheaper ones strip out and become useless.
i would be inclined to use the first one but with a hole across it and a bolt in it. you would have great leverage and it can wear out.

have i missed something here . are you selling these gadgets. i hope so. they would be handy for narrow cuts . il buy a set of 4
if the price is right etc.
what are they made of ,aluminium i hope . i think plastic would bend a bit too much.

is this what rmw was aluding to
 
Alan m said:
is this what rmw was aluding to

Kind of but more so that the knobs need to be tightened down good or the pressure from the clamp may cause them to slip rather than bend.

RMW
 
It is a cool IDEA  nice job.  and personally the lever is better.

I find it funny the amount of mental energy we (drinkers of Green Koolaid) have spent building innovative solutions to fit within Festool's system constraints that are truly better handled by a DW745.
 
A well constructed lever would be the way to go.I agree . Its only paper money. Lots of it floating around these days. ;)
 
Thanks for all the comments guys!
The parts are made out of 6061 T6 aluminum. It is a very common grade, originally developed for aircraft, and it turns out good for lots of other uses. We had them anodized dark green. We have several other parts also in the proto type stage. It was interesting that I had specified 6061-T6 but they all came out slightly different greens. I have 155 of these being made now. I am also undecided whether to go with the standard anodizing or hard anodizing. The machine shop says that they will have them done in about two weeks, and then a week at the anodizer. I have about seven tracks that I try them on first to make sure that they will slide. The tolerances are tight as they fit inside the T track on the guide rail. Both saws can plunge full depth and slide right past the Support bracket. Price is still up in the air. It is amazing how cost mount up. I will keep you posted.
By the looks of it the index lever is what will be on it. As far as durability of the lever time will tell. As far as I know the lever is made here in the States. I am a firm believer in not buying from China.
The hand by the way belongs to my daughter!
Steve
 
SteveBirmingham said:
The hand by the way belongs to my daughter!

Quick thinking ... but you're among friends ... Festool green fingernails is OK  [wink] [big grin]
 
I like all the lines on your MFT...it shows you really got a lot out of it (both literally and figuratively).  [big grin]
 
Very interesting Steve, I like it.    I definitely think the ratcheting lever, especially  when working with thinner boards.  The lever will be easier than turning a knob  down close tot the table.  So they are a very dark green in the pics? 

How about if the legs had a little foot added , pointing towards the outside to help keep them from slipping into saw kerfs on cutting tables?  Just a thought.

I think these would be nice even when not cutting really thin strips. Pretty much good for anything that only has 5" or less under the rail.

Seth
 
I really don't want to be negative but what would be wrong with using the same thickness material to support the guide rail? it seems like a massively over complicated solution to me.
 
andy5405 said:
I really don't want to be negative but what would be wrong with using the same thickness material to support the guide rail? it seems like a massively over complicated solution to me.

1. Came to my head straight away when I looked at the pictures!     Their is no stock/material in the way underneath  sooo you could have like another two of them gadget things  but instead of them going down to hold the rail UP    they slide underneath the guide rail  they would have to be slightly longer  you can have one on either end and they would act like stop to do repetitive cuts.         Good thing about this its all attached to the rail so you just simply lift the rail up place it to one side and your bench is clear for working on for your next piece.  

No separate  pieces of timber or a stop jig in the way which you have to keep moving if you dont have a spare bench top to work off.

JMB
 
jmbfestool said:
andy5405 said:
I really don't want to be negative but what would be wrong with using the same thickness material to support the guide rail? it seems like a massively over complicated solution to me.

1. Came to my head straight away when I was the pictures!     Their is no stock/material in the way underneath  sooo you could have like another two of them gadget things  but instead of them going down to hold the rail UP    they slide underneath the guide rail  they would have to be slightly longer  you can have one on either end and they would act like stop to do repetitive cuts.         Good thing about this its all attached to the rail so you just simply lift the rail up place it to one said and your bench is clear for working on for your next piece.   

No separate  pieces of timber or a stop jig in the way which you have to keep moving if you dont have a spare bench top to work off.

JMB

Now that would be a really good idea and probably a lot better than the parallel guide extensions. As it stands though I'm luke warm and wouldn't consider buying one. It is a good idea but not a great idea yet. Contributions from members could make that happen.
 
hobbes said:
I like all the lines on your MFT...it shows you really got a lot out of it (both literally and figuratively).  [big grin]
Well Hobbes yes I have gotten a lot of use out of these MFTs. I bought them because I was making and installing Corian counter tops. After getting them I really couldn't see cutting up the nice new surfaces so using a 1010 router and a 20 mm bit I made a sacrificial 1/4" top. These are just about toast and I will replace them soon. The idea for the guide rail support was always trying to find the right size boards to support the guide rail for cutting narrow pieces of Corian when I was building counter tops.
 
SRSemenza said:
Very interesting Steve, I like it.    I definitely think the ratcheting lever, especially  when working with thinner boards.  The lever will be easier than turning a knob  down close tot the table.  So they are a very dark green in the pics? 

How about if the legs had a little foot added , pointing towards the outside to help keep them from slipping into saw kerfs on cutting tables?  Just a thought.

I think these would be nice even when not cutting really thin strips. Pretty much good for anything that only has 5" or less under the rail.

Seth
Hi Seth, yes I did think of that but it is amazing how cost start climbing for every little machining operation. To keep costs down I have simplified things. On this set I had put in helicoils, but that added about $1.75 to the base cost. Of course one of the ways to drop costs is to make a thousand or more! [scared]
On the Festool routers is a drop leg which is made out of plastic and its foot is just slightly wider. I talked with a plastic mold injecting company about making this part that way. They wanted something like $8,000 for the mold and was it 20 or 50 thousand pieces per order. 
Yes these are dark green. If I decide to go with a hard anodize then the color may change to black as the anodizing company can't guarantee color consistency.
 
As a cabinet guy who cuts 3" fillers routinely, almost daily,  these look great. It looks like they would eliminate most of the hassle involved with using additional blocking and clamping that I mess with now. I like Seth's idea of a small foot to avoid all of the cut grooves in the table.

Great idea!!
 
Kev said:
SteveBirmingham said:
The hand by the way belongs to my daughter!

Quick thinking ... but you're among friends ... Festool green fingernails is OK  [wink] [big grin]
I prefer Festool Green toenails myself!  [big grin]
 
Well it looks like I'll look into putting a foot on the leg, just how shapely should it be?

I prefer Festool Green toenails myself!

I don't know about the shape but there's a stunning suggestion for the look of the "foot".

Tom
 
So, what is keeping the wood in place? What keeps it from moving on you during the cut?
 
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