Switching to metric

BostonMike

Member
Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
29
I decided with my recent Festool purchases to try going metric...I used a tape measure with both units and couldn't believe how simple it is...I am almost 40 years old and picked it up very quickly

It is 10 times easier...(pun intended)
 
It's always baffled me how in the US, there's things like dropping the "u" out of the word colour to make the spelling simpler, drive-thru's for everything to make life easier, the ability to buy a gun in Costco at the same time as picking up your food shopping, etc, etc... yet you stick to the imperial measurement system that is hugely more complex than metric.

In the UK most people know and use both and can interchange and convert one to the other without even thinking about it, for example we generally measure liquid in metric but height/weight in imperial. But for building something from scratch metric is so much more logical.
 
I work as a nurse so I deal with metric for weight and volume but never length...I know this guy is now a convert...still takes a minute for me to think in terms of what 450mm looks like but I am sure it will come faster with time
 
To give yourself a rough idea of metric as an imperial size just try to remember 1220mm is 4' and divide as required  . And never use centimeters.
I often use both together, measure 1 length in metric , the other in imperial, makes it easier to remember if I've got nothing to hand to write on .
Dave
 
Davej said:
...if I've got nothing to hand to write on .
Dave

I rip the stickers off my tape measures (the ones on the side with the branding on) and use the blank shiny bit of plastic to jot down numbers with a pencil.
 
I grew up with Metric in Germany, then had to use imperial in the US, but like the OP said, with the Festool purchases, I have moved back to Metric for my woodworking needs. The calculator on the phone comes in handy when looking for material at the lumber yards.
 
Davej said:
To give yourself a rough idea of metric as an imperial size just try to remember 1220mm is 4' and divide as required  . And never use centimeters.
I often use both together, measure 1 length in metric , the other in imperial, makes it easier to remember if I've got nothing to hand to write on .
Dave

Very much in agreement on the centimetres bit, the only people I know who use them are dressmakers and teachers.
Whenever I get a new apprentice they can't read a tape measure, mostly because the teachers who taught them at school can't read tapes either.

Oh and when I was working over in France recently they used centimetres.

MM or Metres for me. Plus obviously feet and inches (mostly for plywood and door sizes) with those.
 
I have also decided to go the metric route from here forward (though there will still be a need to be hybrid in some phases of things)....

The thing which is confusing about woodworking in metric is the 32mm standards.  One of the things about metric is the notion of multiples of 10.  Why 32? WHy not 40 or 30?  Just seems odd.

Anyhow...I'm all for the metric stuff, much easier than trying to subtract 3/16 from 5/8.
 
Neal W said:
The thing which is confusing about woodworking in metric is the 32mm standards.  One of the things about metric is the notion of multiples of 10.  Why 32? WHy not 40 or 30?  Just seems odd.
I went full metric years ago with no regrets as it is much simpler.  The only thing that isn't completely transformed is the wide collection of drill bits and I still order my lumber by the board foot.

The 32mm system is built on that because when the system was developed, the minimum distance achievable between centers for boring machines was 32mm.
 
Add me to the list of persons that switched to metric. I now use a metric only tape and when needed, I'm using the Bosch Iphone app to convert. If you don't have this app, go download it. Aside from unit conversion, I'm using the photo measuring option a lot.
 
Locks14 said:
It's always baffled me how in the US....the ability to buy a gun in Costco at the same time as picking up your food shopping, etc, etc...

Sorry but no guns for sale at Costco, not even ammo unfortunately. But it sure makes for an interesting tale at the pub over a few pints..or is that liters...oh after 3 or 4 it doesn't matter.

BostomMike I wish you well in the transition. I prefer metric but hate having to constantly convert between the two so I stick with imperial. For example I was just going over the proposed building code revisions in my county and everything is imperial. Constantly converting just kinda sucks the life out of me.
 
Since I am from the UK guess I should be metric but still work in imperial mainly. Think it's because I work on a lot of old buildings which were built in feet and inches so it works measuring things in feet and inches. Use metric when suits, for example much easier working out rise for a staircase in metric.

What you need to be able to do is work in both and think in both so that you are not constantly trying to convert it or visualise it in the other.

Doug
 
I switched to metric when my TS75 arrived.  I saw threads about putting an imperial sticker over the scale, but decided to adopt millimeters and reject inches and fractions.  Never regretted the decision.  Life is much simpler now.  Although it's an easier system overall, I've found the metric system still allows me to make stupid mistakes. 
 
[size=13pt]
As an retired teacher ([member=51145]demographic[/member]), now DIY house builder and pt sales assistant in a timber yard I make the following comments -

. if possible don't get caught up with converting between imperial or metric, it can be confusing, use one or the other,
. if using metric stick to mm as it is more precise and less liable to error than using CMs and MMs.
  [Architectual drawings are usually in mm for this reason, eg. 5metres expressed as 5000mm.]
. When planning from scratch minimise wastage by thinking in multiples of 300mm as timber, at least in Australia, is sold from 900mm to 6000mm, as 900, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2100, 2400, 2700 etc., [note that construction timber lengths usually start at 2100mm]. This conforms to common building codes, allows for appropriate cutting within construction and assists stock control, eg. 2400 = 2/1200, 4200 = 2/2100, 5400 = 2/2700mm.

In the yard, no one asks for a 5400, it is a 5-4. So a customer my say they want 10, 9045s at 54.

 
When I went to college in the late '70's, I was taught and told that US was going to be metric in the next 5 years. Still  waiting,  I think I the only tradesmen using metric in the US, not for building,  but for casework and furniture it's much easier. I have been teaching my son to use metric, he has a learning disability and no short term memory (his birth mother had a rough birth), metric is easier for him to understand and use. He is too much like me, rather work hard than suck on the social teat. 
 
I prefer metric and plan most of my projects in metric, but sometimes must build in imperial. I think the most annoying aspect was having to buy redundant woodpecker measuring devices.  [mad] [mad]
 
I started using metric when I started with Festool. I remember things like

13 mm= 1/2", 25mm= 1" makes it easier for me.
 
Back
Top