So I have had my T75 for about a year. When I first got it I was able to cut perfect glue up joints for my live edge tables all the way up to 12 feet long. Now all of a sudden it is cutting a concave. Perfect on the ends but a gap as it goes to the middle of the cut. Checked for anything inside deflecting the blade and cleaned it out good. The blade itself looks good. The rails seem to be square and straight. The cut itself seems to be at a perfect 90 degrees but it leaves a gap in the middle of the cut. Any idea what could be wrong with me or the saw? Thanks
T75 not cutting straight
- Thread starter ahwoody55
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jonnyrocket
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- Jan 8, 2018
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How long of a cut are you seeing this issue with?
To clarify the issue you are describing, you are using the TS75 on the track to straight-line rip two different board. When you line them up for glue, you see an air gap near the middle of the length of the cut while the ends are touching. Is this accurate?
Two things to check:
1- is the material flexing while you are cutting it (if it isn't being supported sufficiently all along the cut line, the flex of the material can cause this issue).
2- Has something happened to your rail? Have you verified that it is still straight?
To clarify the issue you are describing, you are using the TS75 on the track to straight-line rip two different board. When you line them up for glue, you see an air gap near the middle of the length of the cut while the ends are touching. Is this accurate?
Two things to check:
1- is the material flexing while you are cutting it (if it isn't being supported sufficiently all along the cut line, the flex of the material can cause this issue).
2- Has something happened to your rail? Have you verified that it is still straight?
jonnyrocket said:
You are correct. These are walnut slabs that have already been planed and flattened The cuts will run any where from 7' to 10' long. The slabs are almost 2" thick and I am clamping them down on my work table with the edge to be cut overhanging the side of the table. I cant imagine I am getting any deflection. I did cut the whole 2" thickness with one pass. Maybe I should try doing 3 or 4 passes. The track seems to be square and straight.
I had the same problem awhile back when connecting 2 or more tracks. If you are connecting tracks for long cuts try Betterley's SLC23 stright line connector. I haven't had a problem since. Leave a small gap between the tracks and this will straighten the rails prior to locking them in line.
Michael Kellough
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- Jan 23, 2007
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- 7,096
If the saw is adjusted to the rail and the rail is straight then it’s like Svar said, tension in the wood. Just cut again now that the tension is released. If the rail is straight the cut will be too.
If you want to join two cut slabs then park them a mm or so apart and re-cut both at once and they’ll match.
If you want to join two cut slabs then park them a mm or so apart and re-cut both at once and they’ll match.
Michael Kellough said:
Thanks, Now I am guessing it is the track. I even tried splitting the kerf like you said with the slabs together and still had the same issue. I just ordered the Betterley SLC23 and will give that a try. If that doesnt work I will just order the 118" track. I didnt get that one when I bought the saw because I didnt have room but I have since moved into a larger shop space and have plenty of storage room
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- Sep 10, 2014
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ahwoody55 said:
I realize this is way late to the game, but here are my suggestions.....
1) Make sure your blade is clean.
2) Make sure your guide rail is clamped to the slabs at both ends.
3) Consider multiple passes and possibly even a lower tooth count blade.
4) Perhaps most important, pay attention to pushing the saw without any lateral pressure. This has been a common issue with track saw customers having such problems.
5) Consider a cut to approximated the final cut and then do a full depth shaving cut for the final jointing operation.
Let us know how this issue resolves.
