The Carvex PS420 - A Quick Test in Thick Timbers

I recall a post a while back by someone complaining about not getting square cuts in framing studs using a jigsaw. I remember at the time thinking "who the he'll uses a jigsaw to cut studs?". Am I the only one who thinks this whole thick timbers cut with jigsaw business is out of hand? It seems evident that no jigsaw on the market, despite any bias, can do the job properly. Regardless, i'm happy with my trion for now and won't be forking over the pile for another "high end" jigsaw for a while.
 
GhostFist said:
Am I the only one who thinks this whole thick timbers cut with jigsaw business is out of hand?

I've used my Trion to cut ogees, ovolos and other architectural profiles on 4-5 inch thick sticks.  This was was for arbor/pergola/decking type work.

Most of the sticks were 20 feet long so taking them to a bandsaw wasn't practical.  Portable bandsaws don't have maneuverability needed for these cuts.  The Trion performed very well.
 
Incredible that a battery powered tool can do that.

That handheld bandsaw is the coolest thing I've ever seen. I have zero need for one now or ever but I want to go and buy one now.
 
Rembo72 said:
What was the difference between Peters test and ours:

* We used the metal guide , maybe blade drift combined with this caused an issue with the Carvex, Carvex manual states use on rails for 20mm only, using the metal guide is comparable to a rail so it could be accepted as being used against instruction form the manufacturer. What's strange here is that the 3 other saws with guides did not show these issues.
That's exactly what happen!  Sorry to say this but you cannot use a jig saw with a guide and expect to get a straight cut.
The blade needs to be parallel with the foot,witch is pretty hard to do or check since the blade is so small.
MAYBE YOU NEED TO DO A VIDEO WITHOUT USING THE METAL GUIDE!?
 
GhostFist said:
Am I the only one who thinks this whole thick timbers cut with jigsaw business is out of hand?

You may rest safely assured that you are not. Its an impressive extreme demo, but thats about it, for me. There are a bunch of better ways to buck logs.
 
Scott B. said:
GhostFist said:
Am I the only one who thinks this whole thick timbers cut with jigsaw business is out of hand?

You may rest safely assured that you are not. Its an impressive extreme demo, but thats about it, for me. There are a bunch of better ways to buck logs.

You are absolutely right. In the unpublished intro of the video review I make that point along with reminding people that there are too many people expecting far too great a quality result from jigsaw work. I hate jigsaws because 99% of my woodwork is fine/delicate work. However, when that 1% comes along it is nice to be able to pull the jigsaw from the drawer.

Peter
 
You may rest safely assured that you are not. Its an impressive extreme demo, but thats about it, for me. There are a bunch of better ways to buck logs.
[/quote]

You are absolutely right. In the unpublished intro of the video review I make that point along with reminding people that there are too many people expecting far too great a quality result from jigsaw work. I hate jigsaws because 99% of my woodwork is fine/delicate work. However, when that 1% comes along it is nice to be able to pull the jigsaw from the drawer.

Peter
[/quote]

Again I agree with you Peter, a Jigsaw is not the best for fine work, but I was happily surprised how well the 420 operated with a fine blade and good clean square cuts in the first test I did. It really became a good carving tool.

Pip
 
Hi Pip

I did a lot of work on the proper 420 video last night. I am getting really good quality cuts which are pretty good for square.

Do you remember that you had an issue with the circle cutter cuttting a few mm off the line? I think it was because you were using the wrong marker on the core maker to mark out where your cut would go. In the picture you can see a mark on each side. I have shown a line scribed by each marker as the core maker rotates. The inner one is for the far side and would be the side that the 420 would attach to cut anti clockwise as recommended.

Peter
 
Stone Message said:
Hi Pip

I did a lot of work on the proper 420 video last night. I am getting really good quality cuts which are pretty good for square.

Do you remember that you had an issue with the circle cutter cuttting a few mm off the line? I think it was because you were using the wrong marker on the core maker to mark out where your cut would go. In the picture you can see a mark on each side. I have shown a line scribed by each marker as the core maker rotates. The inner one is for the far side and would be the side that the 420 would attach to cut anti clockwise as recommended.

Peter

Thanks for bringing that up Peter I forgot to follow up on that point.

I asked on the Festool Facebook page as they are really quick at answering. (give them a try if you have a problem)
Another woodworker replied  that the markings on the scale are the size of the hole cut not the core that you cut out.
I checked and my hole was spot on 80 mm

I had put my pencil in the double v of the adaptor and drew a line. I was expecting this to be where the saw blade cut.
I now realise the 2 points are like the twin lasers on the Kapex showing the inner and outer point of the blade.

Thank for you checking this.

I do wish Festool would do something about their Instruction manuals they are so minimal. Most computers and the like now send you a link to download the pdf document which is the detailed version.

Im guessing they want you to go to the shop to ask questions, then they can sell you stuff while you'r their.

Thank the gods for FOG.

Pip
 
Pip

When I used the Core Maker, set to 150mm, I cut an exact 150mm hole. What you describe above is wrong. Look at the picture that I posted and you will see 2 lines, one drawn from the indent on the side that the blade will be and then other drawn following the indent on the other side. They end up about 10mm apart. The only line that is relevant is the one drawn using the indent on the side where the jigsaw blade will be. Using that line you can drill a hole to take the jigsaw blade in preparation for the cut.

Before you can start the cut you have to do a bit of freehand cutting to get the blade spot on the line. Once it is there, you connect the core maker to the base and cut the circle. I cover this in my video which might be on line by this evening.

Peter
 
Stone Message said:
Pip

When I used the Core Maker, set to 150mm, I cut an exact 150mm hole. What you describe above is wrong. Look at the picture that I posted and you will see 2 lines, one drawn from the indent on the side that the blade will be and then other drawn following the indent on the other side. They end up about 10mm apart. The only line that is relevant is the one drawn using the indent on the side where the jigsaw blade will be. Using that line you can drill a hole to take the jigsaw blade in preparation for the cut.

Before you can start the cut you have to do a bit of freehand cutting to get the blade spot on the line. Once it is there, you connect the core maker to the base and cut the circle. I cover this in my video which might be on line by this evening.

Peter

Thanks Peter I will give it another try tomorrow.
 
Great video Peter.
I am toying with getting an 18v PS420, and was wondering if I can use batteries from my TI15 on the jigsaw and can I use 18v battery on my TI15, anyone no the answer to this.

Thanks
 
Hi JMB

I am not certain what you mean but everything is set up as it should be and I am sure that is where Pip had gone wrong.

Can you answer the query above about different batteries as I do not have any Festool drill/drivers. I think that a machine of a given voltage can be powered by batteries of the same or lower voltage.

Peter
 
There is a battery compatibilty chart on page # 125 of current 2011/2012 US catalog.

Yes, higher voltage Festool tool can use lower voltage batteries.

Seth
 
bellchippy said:
Great video Peter.
I am toying with getting an 18v PS420, and was wondering if I can use batteries from my TI15 on the jigsaw and can I use 18v battery on my TI15, anyone no the answer to this.

Thanks

YEs you can the Carvex will run from 10.8v  upto 18v batteries

You can buy the 14v carvex or 18v they are both the same jig saw just come with different batteries.  Only two types of cordless Carvex da is barrel grip and D handle

JMB
 
SRSemenza said:
There is a battery compatibilty chart on page # 125 of current 2011/2012 US catalog.

Yes, higher voltage Festool tool can use lower voltage batteries.

Seth

A lower voltage carvex will run a higher voltage battery  they are the same jigsaw  just comes with a different batterie

JMB
 
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