The interruption

[Crazyraceguy]

Way too late in the process, someone decided that a couple of counter top cores needed a slope on the part that goes through the window. Apparently, they pass though to the outside, so water is an issue.
The get clad in 18ga stainless steel, so the slope is intended to shed rain.
No one on our end was aware of this, until after they were built. This tiny bevel is only 1/4" over 18", which presents a bit of a challenge, compounded by the fact that they looked more like Pringles than countertops.
This is one of those times when all of those holes make perfect sense. It is all shimmed up to the right angle, but I had to pull the ends down, without touching the surface. Alternative use of DF500, to achieve that goal. I just cut slots into the edges, and more into some plywood strips to plug into them. Then clamped through the holes, to pull it down flat.  It actually took longer to get it all fixtured that it did to do the cutting.
Even with the CT running with the OF1400, it still made a big mess. The bit just extends too far from the extraction to be more effective.
I also found out that the Match Fit clamps work with the dog holes. They don't fit the tracks, but they do fit the holes.

 

[ChuckM]

CRG,

Since yours is a production shop, any reasons why it doesn't make more use o cords and hoses coming down from the ceiling or broom arms for the workstation(s) as I see the cords and hose all over the floor?

 

[Michael Kellough]

The ceiling is about 24 feet away.

 

[Cheese]

But boom arms would still work Michael.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Michael is correct, the ceiling is a long way up. The boom arm concept is kind of a back-burner thing.
Because of the way I store the CT26, in that "garage" in the end of the Sysports, a legit Festool boom-arm just isn't going to work.
In the particular case, I had to pull it out some, just to reach the other end of the countertop.
I have thought about making something to attach to that back wall, to serve that purpose, but I'm so close to retiring that it just not a priority.
Once I get everything home, where the ceiling isn't so high and I have actual walls, things will be different.

Thar extra extension cord is going to the Makita router I was using before the interruption. That is normally not there.
I keep air hoses and CTs at both ends of the bench, just for this reason.

 

[ChuckM]

Snip.

but I'm so close to retiring that it just not a priority.
snip.

That certainly has some bearing.

This school, where I once worked at for a couple of days, had electrical outlets down from the ceiling all over the shop
[attachimg=1]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=57948]ChuckS[/member], that is exactly how I have power and air in that back wall behind the Sysports.
When the shop was wired/plumbed, the "drops" are on every column, which works for most situations.
Because of where I am located, between 2 columns (about 40 feet apart, I think?) that didn't work for me.
The chopsaw station (and the computer behind it) along with my pointer are all connected to that column.
Electricity, air, and dust collection are all there, but that is several feet from my bench/toolchest area.
The boss brought the electricians back to drop me a line, with 2 separate circuits, and we added an air drop from the roof rafters too. That back wall has both, from above. The upper tool box has internal outlets and USB ports, air quick disconnects are right there too.
I ran air and electric lines through the wall, when I built it. The dust extraction for hand tools comes from the CT26 on that end. It was pretty much restricted to the length of the hose, since I don't like moving it. That is why I have the CT15 on the other end. It rolls to wherever it is needed, but I don't drag it behind the bench, it's just too crowded.

The slickest thing I have found to do this is an articulating arm that is intended to shine lights up inside trucks at dock doors. They have pivoting wall mounts and integral wiring, you just need to hand the hose from it.... but it "wastes" some of the length of the extractor hose. Meaning I would need another hose and connect them or buy a longer hose. This is a rather costly endeavor, that simply isn't that important right now. If it could transfer to home, I might do it, but I won't need it there.

I plan to run power up through the floor to the middle of the shop, maybe air too? It would come up under the bench with connections on at least one leg.

 

[luvmytoolz]

Does anyone else think Chuck's pic looks like one of those really well done scenes from a miniature workshop?

I almost expect to see the obligatory plastic man with a leather apron standing by the machine!

 

[ChuckM]

Here is another part of the shop:
[attachimg=1]

 

[peter halle]

[member=57948]ChuckS[/member], that is exactly how I have power and air in that back wall behind the Sysports.
When the shop was wired/plumbed, the "drops" are on every column, which works for most situations.
Because of where I am located, between 2 columns (about 40 feet apart, I think?) that didn't work for me.
The chopsaw station (and the computer behind it) along with my pointer are all connected to that column.
Electricity, air, and dust collection are all there, but that is several feet from my bench/toolchest area.
The boss brought the electricians back to drop me a line, with 2 separate circuits, and we added an air drop from the roof rafters too. That back wall has both, from above. The upper tool box has internal outlets and USB ports, air quick disconnects are right there too.
I ran air and electric lines through the wall, when I built it. The dust extraction for hand tools comes from the CT26 on that end. It was pretty much restricted to the length of the hose, since I don't like moving it. That is why I have the CT15 on the other end. It rolls to wherever it is needed, but I don't drag it behind the bench, it's just too crowded.

The slickest thing I have found to do this is an articulating arm that is intended to shine lights up inside trucks at dock doors. They have pivoting wall mounts and integral wiring, you just need to hand the hose from it.... but it "wastes" some of the length of the extractor hose. Meaning I would need another hose and connect them or buy a longer hose. This is a rather costly endeavor, that simply isn't that important right now. If it could transfer to home, I might do it, but I won't need it there.

I plan to run power up through the floor to the middle of the shop, maybe air too? It would come up under the bench with connections on at least one leg.

[member=58857]Crazyraceguy[/member] Festool does or at least did make such an articulating arm.  Wasn’t available here but a few made it over to this side of the ocean.  One made its way into the hands of a member here.  He designed his own version.  I don’t know if they are still made but here is a link. As a side note, he was the author of the Festool Supplemental manuals and the original ones with all the illustrations  are still on his website.  https://www.waterfront-woods.com

 

[Cheese]

Festool does or at least did make such an articulating arm.  Wasn’t available here but a few made it over to this side of the ocean.  One made its way into the hands of a member here.  He designed his own version.  I don’t know if they are still made but here is a link. As a side note, he was the author of the Festool Supplemental manuals and the original ones with all the illustrations  are still on his website.  https://www.waterfront-woods.com

Those were the ASA 5000 & ASA 6000 boom arms. They were offered around the same time frame the CT 22/33/44/55 were for sale. Probably about at least 16+ years ago.

 

[Cheese]

Like the Festool Live shop, I have several of these Hubbell boxes hanging from the ceiling...they're pretty convenient.

[attachimg=1]

[attachimg=2]

 

[Crazyraceguy]

[member=44099]Cheese[/member] there are a few of a similar box in some other places around the shop. The "on the columns" thing was essentially the preliminaries, to get things started, until we moved in and placed things to fit the departments. There is definitely one hanging by each of the case clamps and another by the drawer box press. There are probably others, but I don't recall off the top of my head.
You can see the drop coming down to the right of the taller section of the wall and the extensions coming out on the lower left of the CT shroud in these pics. The air connector is behind the CT.

 

[WastedP]

Since those are ply sub-tops for the stainless, could you have screwed them to something straight/flat underneath, with the shimmed angle, and then run it through a wide belt?

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Since those are ply sub-tops for the stainless, could you have screwed them to something straight/flat underneath, with the shimmed angle, and then run it through a wide belt?

I'm sure that could be done, but that thing is 40" wide. Something that could pull that much bow out without taking some of the bow too, might be a challenge?
The biggest issue, for me at least, is that we don't have a widebelt sander anymore. Several years ago we did, but even then it was only 27" wide.

The annoying part is that it could have been built that way in the first place, none of this fiddling required.