THE ULTIMATE MITER STAND

[Moparfan90]

just finished mine.
[Inline mode=1]

 

[wow]

just finished mine.

That looks really sharp - nice job!

May I ask what prompted you to stain it dark? I find that now that I am no longer 21, dark things are harder for me to see and work with.

Or maybe you just wanted to put a finish on it and that's just the stain you had laying around...?

 

[Moparfan90]

just finished mine.

That looks really sharp - nice job!

May I ask what prompted you to stain it dark? I find that now that I am no longer 21, dark things are harder for me to see and work with.

Or maybe you just wanted to put a finish on it and that's just the stain you had laying around...?

I wanted to finish it. and all I had laying around was dark colors. I dont see it being a problem. if i need to make markings on the table i can put down some painters tape. and i polyurethaned it also for protection

 

[KRKWW]

I'm assuming that was a self stick rule applied to the fence used in conjunction with the stop.

How do you prevent the tape from puckering with the movement of the wood?

Thanks for your ideas!

 

[JimD]

This is plywood so it doesn't move much at all.  I haven't built this miter saw stand but I have put self stick rules on plywood and have had no issue with wood movement affecting them. 

This is a an old thread, obviously.  I like Ron Paulk's designs and built a rolling workbench for my shop based upon his design.  I also really like his videos on crown molding installation and have them recorded for the next time I do this.  I've put it up several times already and got better each time but I can still learn from Ron.  But in his videos he uses his ultimate work station, not his Kapex workstation.  I found that interesting.  My workbench is about the same size as the ultimate workstation, 3 feet by 7 feet.  I will incorporate the flip stops of that plan into a work surface I will use on my fixed CMS/RAS workbench and will remove for a miter station away from the shop. 

 

[KRKWW]

Thanks Jim, yeah, I know it's an old thread but I'm having trouble getting a new post to go through.

I used melamine (particleboard substrate) with edge banding thinking it too would be stable but both sides puckered. I've looked at a lot of other options and even feedback on the aluminum kreg rails seems to indicate the tape can pucker on those too. Kinda stumped at the moment... 

 

[KRKWW]

Here are a couple of pics of my "pucker"... [sad]

 

[JimD]

That is pretty nasty.  Are you sure it is the melamine, however?  The stick on tapes are sometimes metal and sometimes plastic.  Plastic moves a whole lot with temperature.  Wood essentially does not move with temperature.  If you put a plastic measureing tape on a piece of wood at low temperature and then it got say 60 degrees or so hotter, I would expect it to look like that.  As you can probably tell, I prefer the stick on tapes that are painted metal. 

 

[KRKWW]

[member=45813]JimD[/member]
Both sides of the miter saw have the self adhesive painted metal tapes. I thought I was doing all things "best" with these materials and application. I truly thought the particle board and melamine would be very stable and I never thought the tape would move that much to cause the pucker. So, what to do is what I'm wondering...

 

[mwahaha]

You could use stronger glue, or try flexible glue (modified silicone would do it) to allow the tape to move, although a moving tape is less than ideal.

Or you could screw a stainless steel ruler to the fence. Overkill for sure, but it would be stable as anything and if it were to move slightly (the bigger the ruler the bigger the problem) it would likely just push the screws around if you used small ones.http://www.geionline.com/rulers/extra-long-rulers-inch-metric/3005a/