The way to remove orange peels

usatu said:
I used enduro extender to thin, but it is pretty expensive. 16fl oz is $11.

I used that to get my first best results and like you thought it was pretty spendy. So I ordered some X-I-M from Amazon to give it a try. So far on my test pieces it is flowing and working great. Put a mix of 16 oz GF High Perf poly with 1-2 oz of Dye stain for tint with 10% of the XIM and after the first coat on mahogany - very little grain raising and nice flow. After the second coat with out touching the first coat it was ready for a final coat of clear finish and just a VERY light pass with a super fine sandpaper block.

I was never able to achieve this without extender and now with the XIM it seems to perform even better. So am going to start spraying some drawers to see how it goes.
 
It was there in my post - General Finishes High Performance Poly w/ General Finishes Dye stain. I realize it's not paint but from the description of your issue it was exactly the issue I was having with my setup. So I was just tossing out the findings I had made that make it so I don't dread getting to the finishing part of a project!
 
usatu said:
When things are right, do you see the paint flows like glass top (very few waves/orange peels) in a few minutes or after a while (when it is dried)?

I spray it on and it looks like a wet coating.
I can tell within an hour if it's good or if I will have to respray.
Keep going, it looks like you are getting there.
Tim
 
After talking to JC,I still don't get the wet good coating should look like until I cleaned my board last night under a light above my head. It is a perfect reflection!Water is very thin material comparing to paint. Can you get the same reflection using paint?Mine is always wavy looking. Could that caused by the the paint bouncing  back?

Also how would be the best light setting?It's very hard to see when it is dark. I got two work lights no above light.

Thanks!
 
Experts-please help me diagnose the problem of my spraying skills. The first 2 pictures are spraying a sheet of glass. You can see uneven coating on it. Why is this happening? The mill is not enough or I move too fast?

The last picture looks like a glass( although not perfect like a mirror) but does it look too thick to you? Mill is above 4.

 

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A couple I shot yesterday.

Tom
 

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usatu said:
Experts-please help me diagnose the problem of my spraying skills. The first 2 pictures are spraying a sheet of glass. You can see uneven coating on it. Why is this happening? The mill is not enough or I move too fast?

The last picture looks like a glass( although not perfect like a mirror) but does it look too thick to you? Mill is above 4.

Is this with the "repaired gun"?
Can you take a picture of the nozzel again to see if it is still leaking?

Other than pissing you off by posting pictures of just sprayed finishes that are perfect, I am not sure we can help you. I suggest you find a local expert, or take some lessons/courses from someone who can show you what you are doing wrong.

Tim
 
Please shout me off with close up picture with perfect shots  [tongue]

I found the weather really matter to the final result and material needs to be thin. Guess winter here is pretty dry with heater blowing all the time and that makes the finish dried very fast. The last picture dried pretty smooth.

BTW, how easy is to touch up some areas with kem aqua plus?  Will next layer of coating to dissolve into the first layer? I accidentally touched the door before it is fully cured.

Thanks all.

 
usatu said:
Guess winter here is pretty dry with heater blowing all the time and that makes the finish dried very fast.
Hmm, maybe turn the heater off while you are painting. Could be adding to your problems.

usatu said:
BTW, how easy is to touch up some areas with kem aqua plus? 

Not easy. I always see areas that I have tried to touch up. I always end up sanding and re-coating.

usatu said:
Will next layer of coating to dissolve into the first layer?

No, waterborne acrylic based coatings do not act like traditional nitrocellulose lacquer. The layers do bond together chemically in a waterborne acrylic but do not burn in or dissolve the previous layer and become one as happens in a solvent based lacquer.

usatu said:
I accidentally touched the door before it is fully cured.

Ya, try not to do that.
Tim
 
Dear experts-

Thank you all for your wonderful help during my first paint experiment!I decide to stop working as I am totally sick of sanding and spraying without getting perfect results. Just let it be 😋

I Share with you my final result and thank you all again.

I still got a few cans KA+left , can I use it on furnitures or any better use before it goes bad.

 

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The project appears to  have come together very well.

Yes, you can use the KA+ on furniture.

Tom
 
usatu said:
I Share with you my final result and thank you all again.

Looks really good from here.
Congratulations, bet you are happy that is done.
Tim
 
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