Timber Framing Router jigs

[Jalvis]

Timber Framing jigs

Dont wet yourself

http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/arunda/arunda.html

EDIT> Started from another topic.

 

[jmbfestool]

depending on the price of the template I would be interested.

Dont wet yourself

http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/arunda/arunda.html

Looks Similar to the Ligna jig  which I have been eyeing up for a year or so!  Would like one but dont like the price to be honest I think its ridiculous some one is having a laugh.    When I have my CNC up and running I am going to machine the templates up my self out of Alli or something hard wearing.


They seem to always router into softwood in all the videos with these jigs!  When you listen you can hear to router struggles a bit.    I recon you would always require a razor sharp bit and you wouldnt be able to do this into Oak.  I think you would have to have a second router or change bit over and router the bulk out with a straight cutter first.    Or if you like using a chisel then use a chisel taking the bulk out before going in with the dovetail cutter.

JMB

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

JMB, if I understand correctly, those jigs are developed for building the chalets here in Switzerland ans Austria. Those chalets are almost exclusively done in a pine or other softwood of a local flavor.
Still though, you bet I would prefer a nice sharp bit over a well used one with these dimensions, even in softwoods.

Would be big fun to build a wooden house with these, should be relatively quick when planned well.

 

[jmbfestool]

JMB, if I understand correctly, those jigs are developed for building the chalets here in Switzerland ans Austria. Those chalets are almost exclusively done in a pine or other softwood of a local flavor.
Still though, you bet I would prefer a nice sharp bit over a well used one with these dimensions, even in softwoods.

Would be big fun to build a wooden house with these, should be relatively quick when planned well.

Yeah I would like to use that construction method my self must be strong enough.

Jmb

 

[jeep jake]

I can't believe how much those jigs are. I could get them custom made for less.

 

[Alan m]

its totaly insane what they are charging. 3000 dollars for a set . you could make them yourself for 2-300 dollars

 

[Jalvis]

I'm no expert on Timber frame construction but my guess is that Arunda has certification for loads and strength using there jigs.  Perhaps thats what the additional cost is getting you.

 

[jmbfestool]

I'm no expert on Timber frame construction but my guess is that Arunda has certification for loads and strength using there jigs.  Perhaps thats what the additional cost is getting you.

Should say comes with a book with all the spec for load bearing etc. 

Their are brackets, screws you can buy which are structural they have had to go trough tests to get a certification but you don't pay £400 for one structural screw do ya. 

I can't see them being able to give you a garantee that the joint used would be fine. 

There are to many different factors which could cause the joint not to be as strong as it should be.  So if anything faild it would never be their fault anyway. So the certificate would be worthless to the user.

The one I linked Lagina to me seems a far better jig than the Arunda jig not sure but I think its cheaper aswell.

Jmb

 

[Jalvis]

I'm no expert on Timber frame construction but my guess is that Arunda has certification for loads and strength using there jigs.  Perhaps thats what the additional cost is getting you.

Should say comes with a book with all the spec for load bearing etc. 

Their are brackets, screws you can buy which are structural they have had to go trough tests to get a certification but you don't pay £400 for one structural screw do ya. 

I can't see them being able to give you a garantee that the joint used would be fine. 

There are to many different factors which could cause the joint not to be as strong as it should be.  So if anything faild it would never be their fault anyway. So the certificate would be worthless to the user.

The one I linked Lagina to me seems a far better jig than the Arunda jig not sure but I think its cheaper aswell.

Jmb

I'm just speculating since Germany and many other countries have different standards.

 

[Bob Gerritsen]

Well, they're Swiss, that explains it partially. Stuff is expensive here, most stuff anyway.  :-\

There are some pdf's on the loads and things at the bottom of this page. Haven't checked them myself so don't know if they're any good.

http://www.arunda.ch/outils-charpente-en.php

 

[Maximus]

Old thread, but very interesting!  I particularly like the ability of making up complex angled joints simply, using the LignaTool.  In general I'm a fan of joints rather than mechanical fixing - stronger, longer lasting and rather more elegant.

Did anyone get around to machining up a jig on CNC in the end?  I'd possibly be interested.

 

[Lbob131]

They seem to be using a replaceable  blade router cutter.

Like trends  "Rota tip".
I have their  profilers. The blade  enters the cut  like a low angle  hand plane. At a guess I'd say its about 30 degrees.
So its a better cutting action  and quieter.

 

[Holmz]

its totaly insane what they are charging. 3000 dollars for a set . you could make them yourself for 2-300 dollars

They provide the engineering certifactions for the joints so the cost in lures more than the EQUIVILENT of aluminium cans.
Probably the time saved on one chalet would pay for the jig...

 

[Holmz]

...
When I have my CNC up and running I am going to machine the templates up my self out of Alli or something hard wearing.
...
JMB

Just got an email from the drafts lady this morning.
I also jot some small wood rat dovetail bits a while back.

I need a small scale model sized version of a Linga, and if others also had a need, then put me down for one...

(Nothing like a barbie doll model to approve the concept)

 

[Svar]

its totaly insane what they are charging. 3000 dollars for a set . you could make them yourself for 2-300 dollars

They provide the engineering certifactions for the joints so the cost in lures more than the EQUIVILENT of aluminium cans.
Probably the time saved on one chalet would pay for the jig...

I bet the beams they join come with the same certification at $5K a piece... No, they charge what they charge because they can.

 

[Lbob131]

A  circular  timber frame building was constructed  on Grand Designs  recently  using  sliding dovetails  similar to  the  joints  shown in the Lignatool  video.
Those  who live in the UK  will know GD  and the  presenter Kevin McCloud.

The entire frame  arrived  in a 40 foot  lorry  to the UK from Germany  and according  to Mr McCloud, the framing lumber  cost  £80k.
Though I expect  a cnc  machine  was the  main  work  horse  which  probably  had trees  fed in one side  and out the other came the finished  frame.

This is the property here...http://www.dailymail.co.uk/property...t-house-featured-Grand-Designs-goes-sale.html

Up for sale a while back.

 

[jmbfestool]

...
When I have my CNC up and running I am going to machine the templates up my self out of Alli or something hard wearing.
...
JMB

Just got an email from the drafts lady this morning.
I also jot some small wood rat dovetail bits a while back.

I need a small scale model sized version of a Linga, and if others also had a need, then put me down for one...

(Nothing like a barbie doll model to approve the concept)

Almost missed this post. I tottally forgot about doing this
LoL.

Its funny really I am doing a small carport and said to my mate could do with this router jig to router the dovetails.

Had to use my Protool chain mortiser to get the meat out and then using TS55 to cut shoulder both on male and female part of dovetails and then used a makita circular to cut up the grain to cut the angle on the male part.

Then hand saw notch and then some chiseling. 
[attachimg=1][attachimg=2]

 

[Holmz]

Almost missed this post. I totally forgot about doing this
LoL.
...

I love it!

 

[Michael Kellough]

JMB said  "using TS55 to cut shoulder both on male and female part of dovetails and then used a makita circular to cut up the grain to cut the angle on the male part."

What is different or better about the Makita for that purpose?
Or was it just to have two saws set to different angles or depths?

 

[jmbfestool]

JMB said  "using TS55 to cut shoulder both on male and female part of dovetails and then used a makita circular to cut up the grain to cut the angle on the male part."

What is different or better about the Makita for that purpose?
Or was it just to have two saws set to different angles or depths?

I am on the job tomorrow cutting the rafters to fit into the slots ill take some pictures that will be alot easier to explain why I use the makita.

I did use my TS55 to cutt tenons end grain but I have to fully plunge the saw so I can wrap my fingers round the knob to keep it fully plunged while I free style.  I couldnt do that with these dovetails because I dont want it fully plunged and its angled so its more awkward so I need to use a circular I can lock the depth on.