Matthew Schenker
Member
- Joined
- Jan 15, 2007
- Messages
- 2,619
Everyone,
I've been using Titebond III extensively in the past couple of years. I like its long open times and waterproof qualities. Even if I don't need a project to be waterproof, the glue is great.
I've heard so much about the great qualities of polyurethane glues, I decided to do a side-by-side test. of Titebond III and Gorilla Glue.
I face-glued several pieces of 3"-long by 1.5"-wide scraps of poplar, forming two blocks 3" wide X 6" long X 1.5" thick.
After clamping, I let the blocks cure for three days. I did not scrape away the squeeze-out.
For the test, I took each block and slid it along my workbench until a 1.5" portion was hanging over the edge. Then I whacked the part hanging over the edge with a hammer. I did this several times on each block, observing where the wood split. OK, I don't win any awards for elegance, but I was just curious to get an answer.
The results amazed me...
With the Titebond III glue-up, it split on the solid wood every time, with chunks of splintered wood stuck securely to the glue line.
With the Gorilla glue, nearly every piece broke nice and clean, right on the glue line! It was actually pretty easy -- I could whack it more softly than the Titebond III and still break the bond.
I prepared the surfaces just the way the instructions recommend -- misting it a bit with water.
Am I missing something here?
Matthew
I've been using Titebond III extensively in the past couple of years. I like its long open times and waterproof qualities. Even if I don't need a project to be waterproof, the glue is great.
I've heard so much about the great qualities of polyurethane glues, I decided to do a side-by-side test. of Titebond III and Gorilla Glue.
I face-glued several pieces of 3"-long by 1.5"-wide scraps of poplar, forming two blocks 3" wide X 6" long X 1.5" thick.
After clamping, I let the blocks cure for three days. I did not scrape away the squeeze-out.
For the test, I took each block and slid it along my workbench until a 1.5" portion was hanging over the edge. Then I whacked the part hanging over the edge with a hammer. I did this several times on each block, observing where the wood split. OK, I don't win any awards for elegance, but I was just curious to get an answer.
The results amazed me...
With the Titebond III glue-up, it split on the solid wood every time, with chunks of splintered wood stuck securely to the glue line.
With the Gorilla glue, nearly every piece broke nice and clean, right on the glue line! It was actually pretty easy -- I could whack it more softly than the Titebond III and still break the bond.
I prepared the surfaces just the way the instructions recommend -- misting it a bit with water.
Am I missing something here?
Matthew