To wax or not to wax... that is the question

[mtmpenn]

I'm curious how many of you bother to wax your guide rails, saws, etc.  Is this generally recommended?  I've heard of some people doing it, but couldn't tell if this was common or not. 

How about your MFT top? 

If not wax, do you use any other products on these surfaces to keep everything running smooth???

 

[Jesse Cloud]

Probably wouldn't hurt to wax the rails and the bottoms of tools that ride the rails, but mine have never needed it, still run smoothly after several years.

Some people put a coat of shellac on their MFTs to prevent spills, glue squeee out, etc from soaking in.  Again, a good idea, but I've not needed it so far.

 

[semenza]

Hi,

I don't think there is any need or benefit  waxing the rails or saw.  Not sure but it might end up being a dust collector coating.

Waxing the MFT could be beneficial , but I think other coatings such as polyurathane or something might be better.

Seth

 

[Jeff Hein]

I wax the columns on my router...

In class, we used a "Dry-lube" on the track that was a bit sticky. Brian had some Boeshield  T-9 that he sprayed on the rail.

 

[Ted Miller]

Yes wax all your saw plates and rails. Everything glides very easy with wax.

Saw dust will not build up on buffed off wax.

I use candle wax on my circular saw plates and the blades before and during the day of framing...

 

[woodnerd]

I've recently started experimenting with something call Slip-It.  Super easy to apply, doesn't affect finishes.  If anything, it might make things slide a little too well.  When I did the bed of my lathe, I nearly slammed the banjo into the head.

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

Really?  You wax that stuff?  [eek]

wow

 

[dwillis]

This thread got me thinking and I'm going to try using Top Coat on my router columns.  They seem to offer the most resistance, kind of a "stick-slip" when making a plunge cut.  As for saw base and rails, I haven't seen the need.

 

[BobKovacs]

And here I was thinking that this was a thread about personal hygeine.  Thankfully I was mistaken....... [scared]

 

[woodguy7]

Isnt that what the green strip on top is for  [blink]

 

[Qwas]

I see this subject about the MFT come up regularly and I will lump in those that want to convert an MFT into a router table.

I don't think you are understanding the table top. The MDF's purpose is to hold a board and not allow easy movement. Would you want a board sliding around while cutting it? Or how about slipping around while you are trying to clamp it down? I believe these are valid reasons for Festool to not coat the MDF with shellac , wax, or anything else. I have no plans to coat mine.

If the MDF is to supply some "stickiness" for a workpiece, then why would you want to use MDF for the base of a router table? Most router tables use a phenolic coating that is very slippery for that very reason.

I know these MFT are owned by yourselves and you can do as you please but I don't think it is right to make the MDF top slick.

 

[Dan1210]

I use a dry silicone spray on my guide rails and also on my worktop jig works a treat! Sometimes on my handsaw too...

 

[mtmpenn]

Great input guys, thanks.  

I'm a newb.  The MFT top I seem to have read people coating it to protect from glue and/or finishing supplies when using the MFT as an assembly/finishing table.   Qwas, your points about friction and the MFT's primary purpose as a work holder are very good.

Mike

 

[richard.selwyn]

A long time ago, someone somewhere suggested using fabric conditioning sheets (the ones you throw in the tumble drier) to wide down the guide rail. I bought a box - maybe about 5 years ago and rub down the rails and the baseplates of the saws every so often.  Seems to make a different.
On my combination machine I use a spray - called super gleit or super slip in English I guess. It make a big difference on the planer but doesn't affect any later finish you might use. I was lead to believe wax could cause problems
Richard

 

[Jesse Cloud]

I've recently started experimenting with something call Slip-It.  Super easy to apply, doesn't affect finishes.  If anything, it might make things slide a little too well.  When I did the bed of my lathe, I nearly slammed the banjo into the head.

+1 on Slip-It.  I use it for my tablesaw, jointer, planer, etc.  Besides being very effective:

- it goes on faster and easier than wax (less buffing)
- no silicone, so won't interfere with lacquer
- totally non-toxic, approved for use on food products (e.g., meatcutting bandsaws)

I used to use Boeshield products, but they have some nasty stuff - too nasty for an aerosol.

You can get slip-it at Woodworker's Supply.  A little bit goes a lonnnggg way.

Slip-It

 

[Kevin Stricker]

I use a dry silicone spray on my guide rails and also on my worktop jig works a treat! Sometimes on my handsaw too...

I would recommend throwing away any silicone spray you may have in your shop.  That stuff ruins finishes and sticks around for ever.  Silicone is a bane for woodworkers, it only takes one finish with fish eyes to make you convert I promise.

 

[leakyroof]

I use a dry silicone spray on my guide rails and also on my worktop jig works a treat! Sometimes on my handsaw too...

I would recommend throwing away any silicone spray you may have in your shop.  That stuff ruins finishes and sticks around for ever.  Silicone is a bane for woodworkers, it only takes one finish with fish eyes to make you convert I promise.

Kevin, I'm betting it's actually a Teflon Spray that he's referring to. Usually people lump the 2 different products in the same thought. And yeah, I've seen some autobody people who will practically chase you out of their shop if you try bringing in any silicone product of any config, even sealant as they've had the bad finishes like you posted about.  [crying]

 

[Laminator]

I used to refinish furniture and even 15 years later silicone is banned from my shop and van. I cringe and thank God I don't paint/finish anymore when I see folks spray their wood working equipment with stuff that I know contains silicone.

I use Bostik bearing lube spray or another bostik product called top coat on my rails and table saw.  It uses dry teflon and is not supposed to cause any finishing problems although I wouldn't spray any wood that I intended to paint or finish or glue.

Almost all furniture polish contains wax and silicone and most paint strippers contain wax. Both of which will  wreak havoc
with lacquers and varnish.

 

[MrToolJunkie]

Great input guys, thanks.  

I'm a newb.  The MFT top I seem to have read people coating it to protect from glue and/or finishing supplies when using the MFT as an assembly/finishing table.   Qwas, your points about friction and the MFT's primary purpose as a work holder are very good.

Mike

I put a thin sheet of plastic down for glue-ups if there is chance for major squeeze-out.  I agree with Qwas that no coating is the way it was designed.  It is a consumable so if I screw it up with glue and whatever else I will replace it.

Scot

 

[FulThrotl]

[/quote]

I would recommend throwing away any silicone spray you may have in your shop.  That stuff ruins finishes and sticks around for ever.  Silicone is a bane for woodworkers, it only takes one finish with fish eyes to make you convert I promise.
[/quote]
Kevin, I'm betting it's actually a Teflon Spray that he's referring to. Usually people lump the 2 different products in the same thought. And yeah, I've seen some autobody people who will practically chase you out of their shop if you try bringing in any silicone product of any config, even sealant as they've had the bad finishes like you posted about.  [crying]
[/quote]

there is a silicone product called slip ease that upholsterers use to build cushions, and i have seen it used 100 feet
away from a paint booth, and still DESTROY a $15,000 paint job on a show car.