To wax or not to wax... that is the question

[Mavrik]

I use WD40 on my rails and the bottom of my TS55 from time to time.
Have also used it on the sliding columns of my 1010 router.
Makes a very nice difference.

A secondary effect is that while I'm applying it, I also find myself wiping all the sawdust off.
So, also forces a good habit of keeping things clean.

 

[woodnerd]

Just as a side note, WD40 isn't really a lubricant.  It happens to contain a bit of oil, but primarily it's a mild solvent.  It's great for removing label gum, cosmoline, etc.

 

[Dan1210]

I use a dry silicone spray on my guide rails and also on my worktop jig works a treat! Sometimes on my handsaw too...

I would recommend throwing away any silicone spray you may have in your shop.  That stuff ruins finishes and sticks around for ever.  Silicone is a bane for woodworkers, it only takes one finish with fish eyes to make you convert I promise.

The product i use is a silicone spray for plumbers so they can join their plastic pipes with little resistance, i use it every now and then Not all the time, most of my work is with plastic laminates or melamine materials so i dont see this an issue, also i am only using it on the TOP of the guide rail and the TOP of my jig to reduce friction between the machine and the guide rail/jig.

 

[mouppe]

If the rails are saw undersides are kept relatively clean, why should they need waxing? As for the MFT, it makes no sense to me to try to protect the top unless you are using it for a purpose other than its intended purpose. I mean, if you put a protective finish on it, do you reapply the finish every time you use the saw on it?

 

[James Watriss]

Wax isn't about clean. It's about reducing the sliding friction.

I've tried slip-it and wax on my saw tables and the bed of my dewalt planer. I like wax better. It may take a little more elbow grease to apply, but it stays put longer. Butcher's wax, or other brands that contain beeswax AND carnauba are great. The beeswax will wear off, but the carnauba (which is much harder) will remain, and build up over time to provide a much more durable coating. Slip-it doesn't hold up anywhere near as long. It's not as slippery to the wood. And it ALL wears off.

Another thing, re: the wax coming off on the wood. Applying a paste involves wiping off the residue, not leaving a puddle like you would when you spray. Considering how much wax is actually being applied (not much) and how much remains trapped in the rag, (most of the small amount) and how long it takes the coating to wear off (many boards) I'm not too worried about how much wax is coming off on my lumber, especially since it's all going to get sanded anyway.

My most recent story involving wax involved the crosscut sled I built for my table saw. It's a long sled (~7' long... 2.5 feet on one side of the blade, 4.5 feet on the other) and there was a LOT of friction. I was worried that the rails were too thick, or something else was the matter. Then I waxed the underside of the sled, and it moves like it's on marbles. I went from having to plant both feet and shove, to pushing with one finger.

Use the wax, boys. But not on MDF. A) your work will slide around when you're trying to sand it, and go flying. B) the MDF will soak it in, and warp. Just because there's no grain structure doesn't mean the pulp won't expand when it soaks in a foreign liquid. If you doubt that, dump some water on your table. And the wax will soak in and stay there, leaving you with a permanently warped surface. (I've seen this with other crosscut sleds made with MDF)

 

[Eli]

Lemon Pledge is the lube of choice for a lot of Dolly grips. Smells good, slides good, doesn't build up too bad, cheap. As opposed to Boeshield or T-9.

 

[RONWEN]

I use Lemon Pledge on sticky Systainer latches (I don't have any of the new style yet).  I use Dry-Lube on my Domino and router plunge columns.  I haven't found any need for lubing the saw guide rails.  As far as the MFT top I brushed on a couple of coats of sanding sealer when they were new and that seems to resist glue & varnish build up.  With that said, I realize the tops are "consumable" but I don't even make saw kerfs in mine.  I always throw a piece of 1/4" MDF on the table for a backing -- the 1/4" thickness allows me to use one of my favorite items, Qwas Dogs.

 

[erock]

I just waxed my TS55 base and all my guide rails.  I used turtle wax (because the can is green  [big grin]).  I started out just waxing the table saw, jointer, planer and my hand planes.  But I got to thinking... "What if I waxed my guide rails and TS55?"  I know that's why the green strips are on the rails.  But holly cow!  It made a huge difference.  I never thought about waxing my MFT's,  and I have no plans to wax them.  I placed a couple boards on the MFT to set my rails on because I didn't want wax to get onto the mdf.  Anyways, if you thought about waxing your rails I say do it.  Take care of your tools and they will last a life time. 

 

[JLB builders LLC]

I use dust. Fine MDF or wood dust  works for me  [eek]

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

The only thing I wax is the cast iron tops on my machinery and of course my bikini line. [big grin]

Johnson's paste wax is not effective on your bikini line though.

 

[RONWEN]

I use paraffin and/or linseed oil on my planes which makes a big difference.  The linseed oil gets applied by a wick sticking through the lid of a jelly jar full of the oil.  Just a swipe with the plane every so often does the trick.

 

[peter halle]

Before I answer in the poll, do you literally mean wax, or do you mean to say lubricate in any manner?

Peter

 

[ccarrolladams]

If you are absolutely sure whatever lubricant or wax you intend to apply to preserve woodworking tools and machines will never interfere with finishing processes, then have at it!

My own long experience has been that just a hint of lubricant or wax transferring from a machine or tool will always show up in the wrong place as a void when finishing the job.

This use of wax is the basic of lithography and decorating eggs. The artist uses wax to prevent an area from receiving dyes, stains or ink.

Normally the last thing the woodworker wants to do is accidentally prevent finishes, especially stains, from uniformly covering the wood. The difficulty is that the lubricant or wax does not always show up during sanding. So when the staining is blemished, the piece is assembled and the deadline for delivery is fast approaching!

 

[Ken Nagrod]

I have a salon take care of my tool's needs.

 

[tbellemare]

Do your tools prefer a "Brazilian"?

Tom

 

[PeterK]

Well I know "someone" who Armor All's every tool he owns!
Does that count as waxing????

 

[Ken Nagrod]

Do your tools prefer a "Brazilian"?

Tom

Come on Tom!  They get a German.  [big grin]