tongue and groove flooring

[sedici]

Hi Seth.

Sounds like you get it. The boards have been ripped on a band mill to 11". They are not perfectly straight so a TS would take care of that. Then the 2200 for TG. 

I haven't bought the tools discussed yet so wanting the best problem solved approach.

The thing that has been my concern is keeping repeatable finished widths. Once the sides have been straitened and one side routed what is the best approach for setting up the track for the other side for accurate widths?

Will I be using a tape measure to set the track? I could have a machine shop make something to attach to the track that set it to the same distance away from the first finished edge. Do you know a better way or is there something festool makes for this

 

[Bohdan]

My way would be to use the 55 on a rail to get a straight edge then rout the tongue profile onto that edge.

This way if the routing is not perfect you can trim off and get a second chance.

Then use a set of parallel guides (not the Festool one as it hooks over the ends of the board, use one of the other after market models) to set the board width and cut the second edge. Use the router and fence to cut a groove only in the new side and you are finished.

Because you haven't touched the new edge you can always go over it a second time if required.

The result is that all of the boards are the same width and you can fix any routing errors.

 

[antss]

Why the reluctance to sub out the job to a shop that has the machines and capability to make this flooring that you can then just install ?

That has got to be a lot cheaper than an of2200, a ts55, a Vacuum and the accompanying accessories necessary.

It will also free up your time for doing tasks that you already have the capability to do. 

 

[sheperd80]

I think youre intended approach is all wrong, honestly. Setup good infeed and outfeed support for your tablesaw, rip the boards nice and straight (Ive done it with huge material, its not hard with proper support you just have to go slow with oak).
Then use bearing guided t&g bits to do the edges in a handheld router. It'll be work for sure but youll get consistent results.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk

 

[Cheese]

There must be something I am just not getting about this ........

That'd make two of us...

 

[semenza]

Once you have the boards ripped straight and parallel (with a saw) the bearing guided router won't change that. It will just follow the now straight edge on each side. Run the slot cutter (making the groove) along one side and the matching tongue cutter along the other. You don't need anything to guide the router except the bearing that is part of the bit.

Seth

 

[Bohdan]

.... the matching tongue cutter along the other. You don't need anything to guide the router except the bearing that is part of the bit.

Seth

The problem with that is that the tongue cutter cuts the full height of the board leaving nothing for the bearing to run against.

 

[semenza]

.... the matching tongue cutter along the other. You don't need anything to guide the router except the bearing that is part of the bit.

Seth

The problem with that is that the tongue cutter cuts the full height of the board leaving nothing for the bearing to run against.

Must be different styles to some of them then. I have the CMT set. The bearing is between the upper and lower cutter. It rides on the material that is left ..... the tongue.

Seth

 

[Bohdan]

[thumbs up]

 

[Cheese]

Here ya go...

 

[semenza]

Here ya go...

Yup. that's it.

[member=63926]sedici[/member]  Also It is now clear that you will not have 11" wide boards when you are done. So if you want them all the same width you will need to find the board that needs the most removed in order to straighten it and make it parallel to determine the width for all of them.

Seth