Top size for a table to break down full size sheet goods

[MacMitch]

I am making a table to cut full sheets of plywood. I have a coverd porch just off my shop that I plan to use for the big sawing jobs and I want a table there. I have a MFT 1080 in the shop which will handle smaller pieces. I am using 3/4" galvanized pipe, configured in an H pattern with pipe flanges on the top and bottom of the H's as legs on both ends of the table. The top flanges will be bolted to 2X4's which will be attached to my 3/4" Plywood top. The bottom flanges will serve as feet. With this set up I can break the table down to use it at other sites or to get it out of the way when it is not in use. I can also remove or add pipe sections to raise or lower the table height. I am planing to add a 1x3" apron around the 2x4 boards which the legs are bolted to. I will also attach a hard wood edge around the perimeter of the table top.

I am not sure what size to make the table top. I was thinking about something like 3x7' so that I can clamp directly to a full sheet of plywood. I was hoping some of the "old" hands might have suggestions for the best size top for using Festools on full sheets.

 

[Tinker]

To get a full sheet of anything into my cellar shop is a darned near impossibility.  I just pick up a load of ply @ my local lumber supply, bring it home, drop the tailgate, set up a couple of foldaway horses, slide about three or four 2x's from tailgate to horses and slide the sheets, one at a time, out over the 2x's and saw away.  with the ATF and suitable guide bars, i cut everything to dimension and then take inside for routing or assembly. 

If I get the lumber with my flat bed truck, i don't even move it.  i just cut the stack in place, one sheet at a time.  The AFT can be set so it does not go quite thru a sheet of ply.  I make my cuts and then a quick snap breaks the pieces apart leaving just a hair of an edge to be smoothed.  A quick shot with block plane and the wood is good to go.  The only problem is that i have to be careful not to walk on the face of the sheets I am cutting.  I keep a good set of knee pads in the truck so i don't step on the ply wood. 

i suppose one of these times, when i snap the sheets free, i will tear a splinter off the face, or something, but so far no problem.
Tinker

 

[JayStPeter]

I made mine 3'x6.5'.  I throw a piece of 4x8 rigid foam on it that I can cut into.  It also supports the edges of thinner materials (1/8 & 1/4").  It will be replaced with a large MFT someday.

 

[James Metcalf]

I took Ned's suggestion some time ago and duck taped the edges of the rigid foam. This makes it hold up much longer and is easy to do. I cut down a four by eight sheet into,two two by eight sheets.If you need both lay them side by side. Makes storing them on shelf easy.

 

[CharlesWilson]

Rigid foam! This forum is an endless source of useful information.

Thanks, guys. I already have some kicking around, and it will soon be put to good use.

Charles

 

[Dan Clark]

Charles,

If you cut a lot of sheet goods, a cutting table is probably the way to go.  OTOH, I've done nicely by throwing a couple of 2X8' sheets of pink foam insullation on the floor, flop the 4X8 sheet of ply on top, laydown a guide rail and go for it with my TS55. 

Like anything else, layout is critical to accurate cuts.  I used the flop on the floor method for measuring and cutting 3/4 T&G and 3/8 plywood for my bathroom subfloor.  The cuts were dead solid accurate.  Nice and square, straight, and no cleanup.

I also used pink foam on top of my MFT and an old shopmate to rip 18' 2x joists.  I got 1/16" accuracy over 18'.

Am I happy?  Duh!  ;D

Regards,

Dan.

 

[MacMitch]

I like the foam idea too. I have a sheet of the pink stuff waiting for my table. First time I heard about the duct tape, good idea. I got rear ended in my old truck and my back does not bend as well as it use too, cutting on the floor can be a problem for me. The pipe I am using will allow me to set up at three heights: 11", 23", 33" so I can use the table for cabinet construction and finishing as well. The patio I want the table for will be enclosed sometime in the near future. The exterior wall will have large double barn doors to increase ventilation. My basement shop is entirely under ground with concrete walls so it is hard to ventilate.

 

[James Metcalf]

The floor seems much futher away from me than it was ten years ago. .

 

[Tinker]

I'm bent over ALL the time and i still can't reach it
Tinker

 

[Per Swenson]

What I did is make a combo Frank Pellow/John Lucas table hybrid.

By using the Home Creepo yellow, metal,heavy duty saw horses.

Screwed a 4' foot 2x4 flat to the top of each. Then using pocket holes,

screwed 4- 8 foot 2x4s on edge across. Load the table with sheet goods.

It is real easy to slide the 4x8 3/4 foam sheet under the top sheet.

This works well for me, it knocks down in under two minutes,

easily transportable and I always have 4  two by fours in a emergency.

And it's so simple a caveman could do it. ;D

Per

 

[MacMitch]

Glad to hear I am not the only one "for whom the ground tolls". I got a good laugh from those.

Per, you are a funny guy and can build things too, I am sooooo envious. I spent a half day trying to find 4 2x4s that were just close to straight. Two of the pore choices I selected, twisted and cupped on the way home in the sun. I am only half kidding. I started building the saw horses that Frank Pillow mentioned long time ago on SMC. I decided that I wanted something that was height adjustable. My "old" (even older than me) wood working buddy built an adjustable height table and he sings its praises to me on a regular basis. There is this irritating I'll call it "creative" streak that seems to run through many of us who work with this ever changing medium of wood. I just seem to search for a little bit different, "better" way to do any thing. It is a habit that may even be harder to cure than the Festool one. Thanks for your ideas and humor, they are appreciated.

 

[woodshopdemos]

Take a look at these pages. It will give you the step by step of a good workplace for Festool cutting of panels. Omce you are there, click on Festool Menu on the website...there is a lot more on the subject.

www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm

Beth is always more fun to look at than me.

 

[Ted Miller]

I have used the 2" rigid insulation sheets for quite a while. I use nylon tape on the edges to keep them from being beat up sliding on the crete floor. I just toss my sheet up onto my outfeed table, full size sheet on top of the insulation and cut away. I just make the gullet of the blade even with the bottom of the sheet stock I am cutting and I can use the insulation sheet over and over again. Also through some teflon wax on your TS 55/75 base plate and on your guide and that saw will slide with ease...

 

[Al Lenkner]

Take a look at these pages. It will give you the step by step of a good workplace for Festool cutting of panels. Omce you are there, click on Festool Menu on the website...there is a lot more on the subject.

www.woodshopdemos.com/men-fes.htm

Beth is always more fun to look at than me.

No argument there, John, but maybe you should update your profile.

 

[Dave Rudy]

No argument there, John, but maybe you should update your profile.
[/quote

Welcome back, Al.  Where have you been?

Dave

 

[Dan Clark]

Al,

What have you been up to?  Haven't seen you in a while.  I hope all is well.

Dan.

 

[MacMitch]

John, I am afraid if I use your site any more you will start sending me bills, but I will.

My plan for a worktable is a modification of John, Frank and Per's systems. I decided to use pipe for legs instead of using saw horses. The pipe is more portable, height adjustable (more or less, differing pipe lengths), requires less floor space, the straight legs should trip me up less and all the threaded joints gives me some leveling ability. I am thinking about reducing the size of the 4x8 plywood top and reinforcing it since it will move between several rooms, several locations and handle large quatities of sheet goods.

I forgot about the Renaissance Wax I had squirreled away. I think I will follow John's lead and put a coat on my saw base and guide rails, will make them slick as greased eel .....