Track saw blades

[memmo]

Hello folks, I just spent a couple hours researching the rabbit hole that is track saw blades and I'm no further along

I have a corded Makita track saw which I plan to eventually replace with a TS55.  I'm building a custom MFT style assembly table with some accessories from Dash-board and just ordered some new tracks so I figure now is the time to standardize my blades.  So couple questions:

1. Any reason not to simply go with Festool blades?  I don't mind the fact that they'll be 160mm vs 165mm that I'm currently using in the Makita.  Price isn't my primary concern, rather cut quality and durability.

2. I suppose I should stick with the normal kerf versions, instead of the 1.8mm thin kerf blades as I'm using corded saws.  The blade I'm currently using is Makita's thin-kerf 56T blade, and it seems ok, but cut quality is more important than speed to me in the end.

3. If I stick with all Festool blades of the same kerf, will they all register the same in terms of the splinter guard?  I'd like to have a general purpose blade that I keep in the saw 80% of the time, but there are times when I want to be extra careful with veneered plywood or melamine etc or if I want to rip some hardwood which I'd want to swap blades for.

Would appreciate any advice.  Thanks!

 

[woodferret]

I don't think you can even buy any of the 2.2 kerf machines anymore when the time comes you want to go Festool.  The blades out there are grandfathered for those of us with older machines.  I would just burn through Makita or Diablo blades until you get a Festool, which will then be thin kerf.

 

[Cheese]

If this were my problem, I'd purchase a single Festool blade, of the style you use most frequently, with the 1.8 kerf and try it out on your saw. See how you like it.

As woodferret mentioned, in the US at least, Festool no longer offers a 55 saw that uses the thicker blade. The HK, HKC, TS & TSC all use the thin kerf blades. Even the newly released TS 60 in Europe uses a 1.8 mm kerf blade.

All the thin kerf Festool blades are manufactured with the same 1.2 mm thick plate so all should index properly. For that matter, all the older thick kerf blades were also manufactured with the same 1.6 mm thick plate for interchangeability sake. It's the blades for the TS 75 that are the odd balls.  [tongue]

 

[afish]

I have the makita and waiting for the ts60 to come before considering an upgrade. If your picky melamine is almost impossible to get chip free no mater what.  I tried a bunch of different blades, tape, bla bla there was always some chipping and was always picking through the parts to find the best edge and making sure it was the most visible and trying to hide the others .  I wouldnt say it was bad chipping and most would probably be fine with it but it always bothered me.

 

[Oldwood]

For melamine I have had the best results with this aluminium blade. I score cut then cut through.
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0798BG7KT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I find I need to clamp the track or I get slight movement between the score and through cut.

You do need the adaptor to use 5/8" arbour blades though.

 

[Cheese]

For melamine I have had the best results with this aluminium blade. I score cut then cut through.

That makes sense this being an aluminum blade, there's probably no hook or even a negative hook to the teeth.

 

[memmo]

Thanks for all the info folks.  Saved me a bit of grief down the road.

I'll pickup the Fine-cut 1.8mm blade and try it in the Makita for the time being.  Shouldn't be an issue since the Makita doesn't have a riving knife.

When I do eventually upgrade at least the investment in the blades won't be for not. 

 

[Oldwood]

For melamine I have had the best results with this aluminium blade. I score cut then cut through.

That makes sense this being an aluminum blade, there's probably no hook or even a negative hook to the teeth.

Yes it is negative rake triple chip grind.
Edit
I checked the spec and it is 0 rake so no hook. I have one for the table saw that is 5 degrees negative rake.

 

[Toolpig]

Hello folks, I just spent a couple hours researching the rabbit hole that is track saw blades and I'm no further along

I have a corded Makita track saw which I plan to eventually replace with a TS55.  I'm building a custom MFT style assembly table with some accessories from Dash-board and just ordered some new tracks so I figure now is the time to standardize my blades.  So couple questions:

1. Any reason not to simply go with Festool blades?  I don't mind the fact that they'll be 160mm vs 165mm that I'm currently using in the Makita.  Price isn't my primary concern, rather cut quality and durability.

2. I suppose I should stick with the normal kerf versions, instead of the 1.8mm thin kerf blades as I'm using corded saws.  The blade I'm currently using is Makita's thin-kerf 56T blade, and it seems ok, but cut quality is more important than speed to me in the end.

3. If I stick with all Festool blades of the same kerf, will they all register the same in terms of the splinter guard?  I'd like to have a general purpose blade that I keep in the saw 80% of the time, but there are times when I want to be extra careful with veneered plywood or melamine etc or if I want to rip some hardwood which I'd want to swap blades for.

Would appreciate any advice.  Thanks!

Have been using Festool blades for many years. I’m able to get at least 2-3 sharpening with each.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Crazyraceguy]

For melamine I have had the best results with this aluminium blade. I score cut then cut through.

That makes sense this being an aluminum blade, there's probably no hook or even a negative hook to the teeth.

Yes it is negative rake triple chip grind.
Edit
I checked the spec and it is 0 rake so no hook. I have one for the table saw that is 5 degrees negative rake.

That's the same tooth profile that is used for Corian and other brands of solid surface material. It takes a little more effort to push the saw, which makes it feel slightly slower, but cuts cleaner.
The aggression of a positive tooth rake is what chips and tears at the top surface.

 

[rst]

I use the Amana AGE blades on my Festool and Flex saws.  I actually run aluminum blades on all my saws including my table and slider saws.  This allows me to cut everything and especially plastics and the geometry is for practical purposed is the same as the aluminum blades.