Track saw power?

[john molloy]

I've had the same problem on 3/4 ply only new saw

 

[Gordon Bombay]

I've had the same problem on 3/4 ply only new saw

Just got my track last week and started using it on 3/4 inch ply. Had the same issues for the first few cuts, but then it seemed to work fine after about 10-15 rips.

I have a few more rips to go though and will see if the problems continue.

 

[buckeyeguy]

Bought my TS55 REQ last week and experienced the same "loss of power" issue. I was ripping a 5/4 piece of red oak (a little less than a kerf width) with the 48T blade. Running off the CT Midi. It happened three times. If it matters, the speed setting was maxed.

I looked at it further and I found I was not twisting the plug it cord enough. Once I twisted the plug more (since it was the first time, I thought I was going to break it) I did not have the problem again.

I later switched blades to the 12T Panther blade and tried it as well.

 

[Teoli]

The track saw was one of those tools that literally changed my life.  But as amazing as it was, I experienced all of these issues. I think thats why they made the 75. My 55 will cut plywood and mdf like butter but thick maple and oak will make it struggle. It has limits. Someday I'll  have both. The right tool for the job.

 

[semenza]

[member=47181]SethThompson[/member]

  Something is clearly not right.  Needs to be systematically tracked down. Even though maple can be very hard to cut the TS55 shouldn't be struggling to cross cut a 1" panel.

  First just to make sure we are all on the same page ...... the cut is in 1" thick solid maple and is a cross cut?

  And I may have missed it above but are you certain the Plug-It cord is fully twisted into place? When it is fully seated you will feel it lock in. It feels like you have turned I through a bump or a notch.

Seth

 

[chrisrosenb]

All of this sounds normal to me, as I have 2 TS55s. They both struggle in anything heaver than 3/4" plywood.
I have recently started using Freud 14 & 28 tooth 160mm blades. They seam to help. They are a thinner kerf than the stock blades.
When using the stock blades, making very slow cuts helps.

 

[Tayler_mann]

All of this sounds normal to me, as I have 2 TS55s. They both struggle in anything heaver than 3/4" plywood.
I have recently started using Freud 14 & 28 tooth 160mm blades. They seam to help. They are a thinner kerf than the stock blades.
When using the stock blades, making very slow cuts helps.

I've cut probably 100+ feet of 8/4 no problem. I built and entire bed frame from 5/4 and ripped every piece of it with the blade that came withtge saw and it rocked and rolled. I think some people are just to bashful with the saw. It's meant to growl back at you that is essentially the electronics doing their job. My saw sounds like it hates me when I use it and it's never given up or bogged down. I'll double up 3/4" Baltic birch and do a 5' cut in seconds and my saw performs like a champ. Now if you think it should have the same power and speed as a 3hp belt driven saw your crazy but it still does a real good job.

 

[SethThompson]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] Thanks for the reply. It is a one inch cross cut, and the cord is seated. But to be totally honest, after the static issue and the saw not cutting well, my track saw is probably going to be used as little as possible. If it worked well, I can totally see why someone would love this tool.

Seth

 

[semenza]

I suggest trying it on some other materials plywood etc. Just to see if the problem persists on those materials. That will help determine if it is simply a matter of the maple being really hard and dense or if it is a problem with the saw.

Seth

 

[SethThompson]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] The saw works well on plywood (except for the static issue). Not to sound snarky, but I did not buy my track saw to cut up plywood since I hardly ever use plywood. This has also happened on any other hardwoods I have used.

And I don't really have time to send it in. My last tool took almost three weeks to get back to me. Plus they wanted my extractor and tracks along with the track saw. Thanks for the advice though.

 

[DB10]

If it was me I would find the time to get it looked at, Festool USA service times seem to me to be really fast, you should see what we have to put up with down here, a month turn around would be considered good service here.

 

[Holmz]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] The saw works well on plywood (except for the static issue). Not to sound snarky, but I did not buy my track saw to cut up plywood since I hardly ever use plywood. This has also happened on any other hardwoods I have used.

And I don't really have time to send it in. My last tool took almost three weeks to get back to me. Plus they wanted my extractor and tracks along with the track saw. Thanks for the advice though.

I do not even have a TS55, but if it wasn't working... I would suggest that 3 weeks is no big deal because "it isn't working".
The tools is useless in an unusable state.

Even my 230v Mt55 doesn't appreciate being pushed hard into 1-3/4 hardwood, but if I am not eating spinach then it plow through pretty good.
So I would expect your TS55 to also cut good, but not tolerate being overpushed.

You probably need to send it in or sell it.

 

[sae]

Or return it before your 30 days is up.

 

[semenza]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member] The saw works well on plywood (except for the static issue). Not to sound snarky, but I did not buy my track saw to cut up plywood since I hardly ever use plywood. This has also happened on any other hardwoods I have used.

And I don't really have time to send it in. My last tool took almost three weeks to get back to me. Plus they wanted my extractor and tracks along with the track saw. Thanks for the advice though.

The TS55 with the 48 tooth Fine blade is primarily designed to be used on sheet goods. Though it can cut other solid woods pretty well for cross cuts in most cases. But the Universal blade will do better than the Fine blade, and the Panther blade is designed for rip cuts.

If you are primarily working with solid wood the TS75 with Universal blade (which is supplied with the TS75) will be a better choice. If you are within the 30 days I suggest returning the 55 and getting the 75.

Not sure about the static issue.

Seth

 

[McNally Family]

This thread makes me wonder if the cordless version of this saw is worth the price of admission.....

If the corded 110v model bogs down, and people are suggesting the 220v as a solution, I'm starting to doubt the 18v battery will pull it's weight, even if doubled to 36v by doubling up on the battery.

 

[semenza]

This thread makes me wonder if the cordless version of this saw is worth the price of admission.....

If the corded 110v model bogs down, and people are suggesting the 220v as a solution, I'm starting to doubt the 18v battery will pull it's weight, even if doubled to 36v by doubling up on the battery.

  I don't think the idea of the TS55 bogging down is well founded as a general rule. It is dependent on the material being cut, the type of blade being used.

Seth

 

[Cheese]

If you're within the 30 day window (and even if you're not), I'd go back to the dealer with your saw and compare it against his demo 55 & 75 models, cutting scraps of whatever wood you're using. A real world comparison should shed some light.  [smile]

I'm sure the dealer wants you to be a happy camper.

 

[rljatl]

Like Seth said,  if you are using the fine blade that came with the saw,  no wonder you're having trouble.  Try the appropriate blade.