Track Tubes MFT top

Thanks for the response @Dynaglide.  Can you share any sources for them?  I have been looking online for hours and can’t seem to locate them.  Thanks again - great setup. 
 
Would you cut a dado into the top and fill it in with a strip or align the guide rail so it’s just past the Right of the main top and add a sacrificial strip attached to dogs?
 
Bugsysiegals said:
Would you cut a dado into the top and fill it in with a strip or align the guide rail so it’s just past the Right of the main top and add a sacrificial strip attached to dogs?

I'd go for the first option. For this top I plan on always having the guide rail referenced off the two dogs so the cut line should be consistent.
 
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]  Matt, I may have missed this in a previous post, but did you consider adjusting the right wing in closer and having your cut line for your guide rail in the gap between the right side of your main table and your right wing? I realize that you may not have the support area you desire to the right of the cut but it does eliminate the issue of a saw kerf in the table.
Seems to me I saw a prior picture some time ago where Glenn was doing just that. But I could be wrong.

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Rich
 
Mortiser said:
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]  Matt, I may have missed this in a previous post, but did you consider adjusting the right wing in closer and having your cut line for your guide rail in the gap between the right side of your main table and your right wing? I realize that you may not have the support area you desire to the right of the cut but it does eliminate the issue of a saw kerf in the table.
Seems to me I saw a prior picture some time ago where Glenn was doing just that. But I could be wrong.

----
Rich

Hi Rich I don't see cutting into the top as an issue. It helps with dust collection and provides a better cut. If I had a CNC I wouldn't even worry about where I cut like I use my MFT tops.

[member=49284]JeremyH.[/member] Can you clarify?
 
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]  Again thanks for the post!

Matt few of questions:

1) Doesn't look like the dog holes are chamfered - are they? (would be necessary if you use Parf dogs)

2) When would you use this setup over using your TSO square and parallel guides?

3) When I purchased my TrackTubes two years ago working with Glenn I purchased two stubby dogs per panel and they have performed well. I see you have two dogs at the front and two at the rear. Do you think there is an advantage to have four?

4) I was told about the accessory c'bored slots - nice to actually see them. The concept is attractive but doesn't give me a good warm/fuzzy feel of robustness. Thoughts? (I used some UJK Parf anchor dogs to attach a similar device to my MFT slab)
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Mike Goetzke said:
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]  Again thanks for the post!

Matt few of questions:

Hey Mike, glad to help. I'll try my best to answer:

1) Doesn't look like the dog holes are chamfered - are they? (would be necessary if you use Parf dogs)

No they are not chamfered. It would be easy enough to do though.

2) When would you use this setup over using your TSO square and parallel guides?

It really comes down to what you're working on. I used my TSO square and parallel guides exclusively to crosscut drawer parts and while it worked and they all came out square and to the correct measurements, I would've rather used an MFT style setup with a fence. With narrower width parts you have to put a second piece under the guide rail equal thickness to support the guide rail. If you're cutting up panel size pieces then either system would work equally well. I just like having a hinge and fence when I'm working if I can.

3) When I purchased my TrackTubes two years ago working with Glenn I purchased two stubby dogs per panel and they have performed well. I see you have two dogs at the front and two at the rear. Do you think there is an advantage to have four?

I've only just started messing with those stubby dogs. I actually have 14 of them because Glenn inadvertently sent me a bunch that were intended for someone else. I think I'll switch to two per top on the diagonals as it should make attaching and removing much simpler.

4) I was told about the accessory c'bored slots - nice to actually see them. The concept is attractive but doesn't give me a good warm/fuzzy feel of robustness. Thoughts? (I used some UJK Parf anchor dogs to attach a similar device to my MFT slab)

I had my doubts too. So far so good. They're pocketed to closely match the head of the button head allen bolts. If sticking with the slots I could see a specially designed washer being useful to further spread the force along the slot. Those anchor dogs are slick I wonder if you could adapt them for the same purpose to the holes along the far edges of the tops.
 
Mortiser said:
[member=65062]DynaGlide[/member]  Matt, I may have missed this in a previous post, but did you consider adjusting the right wing in closer and having your cut line for your guide rail in the gap between the right side of your main table and your right wing? I realize that you may not have the support area you desire to the right of the cut but it does eliminate the issue of a saw kerf in the table.
Seems to me I saw a prior picture some time ago where Glenn was doing just that. But I could be wrong.

I used dominos to attach a sacrificial cut strip to the right of my Festool MFT3 replacement top. When using the TrackTubes, the top can be slid to the left side of the tubes and a wing can be placed on the right for material support, so support hasn't been a problem. Because the tubes are hollow, I also milled some telescoping extensions that can be used for extended support .. like shown here on my lifting table. The extensions can be used on the left or right side of the tubes, so no problem with support on either side of the cut. 
 

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Hey Glenn now that I see the sacrificial strip I might do the same. That's a lot easier to replace than if I were to rout one that interference fits into the TrackTubes top.

Thanks for sharing.
 
[member=63307]Grev[/member]  Hi Glenn. Can you share how you fasten the fence to the slab in pic #2? Do you utilize the narrow slots?

Also, what WP t-track rule is that. I have a 4' story stick but the scale goes from left to right.

Thanks
Mike
 
Mike Goetzke said:
[member=63307]Grev[/member]  Hi Glenn. Can you share how you fasten the fence to the slab in pic #2? Do you utilize the narrow slots?

Also, what WP t-track rule is that. I have a 4' story stick but the scale goes from left to right.

Thanks
Mike

I used a router template to add slots to the edge and use a 1/4"-20 hex bolt and knob to capture the bottom t-track and tighten it to the top.  Rock solid and only takes 30 seconds or so to set up.  Not sure if it was a coincidence, but using the Woodpecker MFT square, and pegging it to the dog holes, the track is just about perfectly flush with the edge of the top.  The scales on the WP track you get with some of their products (Story Stick, DP Fence, etc., don't have the correct scale).  I actually purchased some WP DP Track and added an adhesive metal rule I get from oregonrule.com.  The Woodcraft "back to back" track also works good and is less expensive.

DynaGlide said:
Hey Glenn now that I see the sacrificial strip I might do the same. That's a lot easier to replace than if I were to rout one that interference fits into the TrackTubes top.

Thanks for sharing.

The slots in the edge of the top could be used for attaching a strip, but a more permanent solution would be to use the dominos like I did.  Easy enough to cut off and re-attach a new one when needed.  Fred [member=74197]BristolArtisanCo[/member] has shown a sacrificial strip he's added to some of his tops, which could also be added.  So lots of choices to keep from cutting into the top.
 

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I toyed with making the domino sacrificial strip for a split second. Didn't care for mounting the guide rail so far over. No turning back now:

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I also waxed both sides with Howard Feed N Wax at [member=63307]Grev[/member] recommendation. It's nice stuff although a bit tedious with all the holes already bored.
 
DynaGlide said:
I toyed with making the domino sacrificial strip for a split second. Didn't care for mounting the guide rail so far over. No turning back now:

I also waxed both sides with Howard Feed N Wax at [member=63307]Grev[/member] recommendation. It's nice stuff although a bit tedious with all the holes already bored.

Ouch - I was toying with buying that router on the recon site this morning but it was still almost $800 with taxes.

Glenn also steered me onto Feed n Wax. Yes, I did all the holes too on my three slabs. I did end up heating it up - that made application so much easier.
 
Hello all.  Question - where did you get the track tubes top?  I checked on their site and only see the tubes for sale.

Thinking of building this instead of buying mft3

Thank you

Alex
 
festal said:
Hello all.  Question - where did you get the track tubes top?  I checked on their site and only see the tubes for sale.

Thinking of building this instead of buying mft3

Thank you

Alex

The tops were CNC'd by Fred [member=74197]BristolArtisanCo[/member].  You can message him through his website, or email him for details.  I noticed his email is listed in his profile.
 
To answer a question earlier about how much the tops cost: I don't think I'll ever know. Fred called me up last night and thanked me for all I've done to spotlight his tops and told me to pay for shipping and we'd be more than good. Can't beat that.

When this all started there wasn't any sort of agreement like you see on YouTube or Instagram where people get stuff in return for promoting it. I just did it because I like the products and see the potential for their expansion. I paid retail on my TrackTubes (4 of them now, 2 original 90" and 2 of the new double slotted 72"). I just wanted to be upfront about my investment so far.
 
Grev said:
festal said:
Hello all.  Question - where did you get the track tubes top?  I checked on their site and only see the tubes for sale.

Thinking of building this instead of buying mft3

Thank you

Alex

The tops were CNC'd by Fred [member=74197]BristolArtisanCo[/member].  You can message him through his website, or email him for details.  I noticed his email is listed in his profile.

thank you just did
 
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