Trimming fence bottoms on uneven ground

Who told you to go riding your bike?  You should be in your garage using your Festools. [poke]
 
Kodi Crescent said:
I was riding my bike this afternoon, and most picket-type fences were in contact with the ground.  But most of them weren't stained, and they were probably built using arsenic treated wood.
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That's because it's easier to just set the fence panel on the ground to install it. You'll get that with the low bid every time.  Glad to see that it seems to be worked out.
 
jmbfestool said:
WarnerConstCo. said:
At least he showed up to try and fix it, albeit on a Sunday.

The strip of ply works as a good smooth guide on the ground to ride the saw on.
I think the offset on most sidewinders is an 1 1/2". Poor ryobi saw.

It is a lot of work to keep a consistent gap when the ground pitches and rolls alot.
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Ply is not flexible enough unless its flexi ply. That's y I said hard board as it's flexible enough but also very smooth on 1 side so the saw will easily glide along the smooth surface.

Jmb
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Maybe I meant 1/4" ply. [poke]  Masonite would work the best like you said.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Kodi Crescent said:
I was riding my bike this afternoon, and most picket-type fences were in contact with the ground.  But most of them weren't stained, and they were probably built using arsenic treated wood.
Click to expand...

That's because it's easier to just set the fence panel on the ground to install it. You'll get that with the low bid every time.  Glad to see that it seems to be worked out.
Click to expand...

Most everyone I know that had a fence installed wanted to hit the ground.

75% of them are cedar around here though.  Treated SYP has a mind of its own around here, which is why I really don't like treated decking.  No matter how good it looks when I leave, I am always disappointed how it looks after my one year check.

As long as the treated boards are rated for ground contact, I don't see much of an issue.  Although ground rated is getting hard to find and it is 33% more.
 
I had the same issue and had an old beater of a circular saw and used it to trim the bottom of the boards.  worked like a charm, granted the ground was more even than you described...

Jon.
 
4 years within about 1.5 inches from the ground and my cedar fence is doing OK. PVC just seemed soulless and clinical. If you ever have to replace parts, you also have to sweat it out and hope you can find a source for compatible parts.
 
awdriven said:
4 years within about 1.5 inches from the ground and my cedar fence is doing OK. PVC just seemed soulless and clinical. If you ever have to replace parts, you also have to sweat it out and hope you can find a source for compatible parts.
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There are some really nice looking PVC/composite fencing options out there.
Some people don't want to be bothered with fence maitanence so it is a good option.
Plus they go up pretty quick.

There is something out there for every one.
 
How about this for a crazy scribing idea?  Get a lawnmower wheel with the desired diameter from one of the box stores, stick a pencil through the hub, and roll that alongside the ground?  Maybe put down the Masonite first to even out some of the peaks and valleys.  Any thoughts on this?
 
Kodi, I think you should pack up and move.  Leave the Festools in the garage for the new owner.  I'll be right over with a check.  Of course it won't be as much as you'd like, but I have to devaluate the property some for the fence.  I'll be ripping it out and putting up a really long volleyball net.
 
Kodi Crescent said:
How about this for a crazy scribing idea?  Get a lawnmower wheel with the desired diameter from one of the box stores, stick a pencil through the hub, and roll that alongside the ground?  Maybe put down the Masonite first to even out some of the peaks and valleys.  Any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...

Well make sure the wheel is big enough to give your cicular saw enough clearance. Doing it this way you have to look and b on your knees to see the line. Appose to running along the ground with hardboard down would be quicker as you don't need to me crawling along on your knees bending down trying to fallow a pencil Mark you will hardly see.

Jmb
 
I wanted to follow up with what I did.  I tried the masonite and following the grade.  I ended up with a pretty wavy fence for the few sections that I used that.  The masonite did help keep the circular saw guard handle from digging in the mud.  As a guide for scribing, it didn't work well in my case because my property had too many deviations.

Instead, I used my longest level, pushed it against the ground and drew a line.  I then moved the level some distance and drew additional lines as the grade changed.  The level was fairly wide, so I tried to follow the line with some slight offset with the circular saw so I didn't cut too much off the bottom.

I think the results look okay.  I don't know if I would have been satisfied with anything other than the installers cutting the boards to fit the contour, so given my pickiness, I think it probably looks okay.  I can always put mulch down to cover any big gaps, or I could dig a small trench and install a kickboard to cover the gap.
 
Ummm sounds like your not happy!  Should of made pictures for use so we could see what your situation was as its hard to imagine. I have used the hard board trick and it has worked fine but to what your saying the ground level wasnt as bad as what yours sounds like.  The problem I did notice when for example coming out of a dip up was not to over shoot as a circular saw wants to go straight so you could end up going up up up instead of curving back down.  Maybe take some pictures of it now?! So we can see and say it looks good m8 dont worrie about it  [poke] hopefully cheering you up. lol  sorry!  If you show some pictures of the fence maybe some one on fog has an idea or something?!?!?!?!?

JMB
 
Ummmmmmmmmmmmm you know the old saying,  "If all you've got is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail?  I know this is a FT forum but it seems to me that a shovel would be the proper tool, dig a little under each slat to acheive the desired clearance.  And you don't have to worry about GFI failures.

Just a thought  :)
Jay
 
Jay Knoll said:
Ummmmmmmmmmmmm you know the old saying,  "If all you've got is a hammer, every problem looks like a nail?   I know this is a FT forum but it seems to me that a shovel would be the proper tool, dig a little under each slat to acheive the desired clearance.  And you don't have to worry about GFI failures.

Just a thought  :)
Jay
Click to expand...

If you're going down that road, then surely it would be a spade, not a shovel? Or are the terms interchangeable over there?
 
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