Trimming splinter guard for the very first time?

[nako]

Does anyone know why the TS55 REQ Supplemental User's Manual instructions (top of page 8, #3) indicates positioning the "strip hanging over the edge (so you don't cut the table.)"  I get the "don't cut the table" but why not put the rail on a piece of flat material to trim the splinter guard?

sincerely, Nako

 

[flair woodworks]

A flat piece of material would work just as well.

 

[Jeff Zanin]

"Hanging off the edge" avoids the potential issue of the depth setting being too thick for the material and allows you to trim using the full depth of the saw.

 

[nako]

thanks Chris, my thinking also. I was just wondering if I'm missing something here.

 

[ear3]

Others might disagree, but I feel like it's safest to trim the guard cutting into the table or other sacrificial surface.  Positioning part of the guide rail off edge means there is the potential to flex the rail, thus compromising the straightness of the splinterguard.  Or if one does choose to cut it off-edge, at least make sure that it there is a minimal amount of rail floating in space.

 

[nako]

Some interesting ideas.  The manual suggests positioning the blade to 6 - 7 mm to penetrate the strip by about a half tooth. Thanks for the replies. Probably not the biggest dilemma going forward.  Nako

 

[lunchman]

I always thought it odd that the Festool TS55REQ manual suggests setting the machine to "maximum cutting depth" when trimming the splinterguard (pg. 14). That contradicts any best practices I've ever read re: how much of the saw tooth to reveal when using a circular saw.  I assumed it was simply a mistake in the manual and ignored their recommendation, going with best practice of half a tooth.

I can't recall whether I supported the splinterguard with a foam sheet or let it hang a bit off the edge of my workbench.

-Dom 

 

[nako]

Hey guys, I should explain that I have a brand new TS55 and 4 new rails to trim and hence my preoccupation with this seemingly minor detail.  You all have made some good points that got me thinking about this further.  It seems a lot of different ideas on how to go about this and I'm starting to think probably because not a critical issue regarding exact procedure?  In any case, my thinking now is to use a piece of sheet good for support and use a shallow cut for initial trimming.  Nako over and out.

 

[lunchman]

My mistake, I should read (and interpret) the manual more closely.

WRT trimming the splinterguard, the manual is referring to the green splinterguard on the saw itself.

D'oh!

But on page 19, where trimming the splinterguard on the guide rail is discussed, the Festool manual STILL states to "Push down the machine slowly to the max. preset cutting depth and cut along the full length of the splinterguard without stopping".

It's their manual but I disagree with setting the blade to max depth for splinterguard trimming.

 

[nako]

Good catch Lunchman.  Nako

 

[Rick Christopherson]

This is just wild speculation on my part, but I suspect the author said what was said because it's the easiest to explain with the fewest potential questions or problems about what sacrificial material to use and all the warnings about not cutting into the kitchen table or the concrete floor.  [tongue]

This is is kind of a video version of the manual and answers your questions.

 

[vkumar]

Excellent video Rick.  No matter how many times I watch it (as well as your other materials) I am impressed by your delivery of the details.

Vijay

 

[greg mann]

If you don't max out the plunge it is difficult to trim the splinterguard to the ends of the rail without running the saw itself too far off the rail.

 

[Holmz]

^If the rails connect^, it is easy...

get stuck into it man.

 

[peter halle]

Just a an FYI:  If you ever see a trainer doing a demo or go to a class at Festool USA you will see that the ends of their rails have untrimmed areas.  You can usually make a mark a few inches in from the end on your workpiece and then line up a trimmed area.  The exception is if you are making an angled cut and the workpiece length is close to the length of your rail.

Peter

 

[ear3]

If you want to trim all the way to the end, you could always join the rails in various combinations and then make a cut.  I've never found having the ends not trimmed to be an issue, since you always have to have some overhang for the saw.

 

[nako]

lunchman, yes I saw that too, except on p. 20 in my manual and that added to my wondering ...

Rick, haha thanks for the reminder about the kitchen table and concrete floor.  I liked that humour, of course, of course, but just maybe ... for wood workers new to using a track saw for the first time, the appreciation for potential kickback with a fully extended blade under a track is worthy of mention.  So yes, and also thanks for the video link.  I actually had seen it before, but as many others have said, well worth watching more than once as you pack a lot of info into a brief space and I usually get an aha moment when I see something again and think, yup, now I totally get that detail and now know why that should be so. 

greg, good point and after using my saw and a track to make a bunch of deep notch cuts I totally see your point. Well said.

Peter, yup now that I have used my saw/rail combo can see how a bit of untrimmed guard on the end is of little consequence in a usual way, and also thanks for that explanation.

Edward, ditto above and good tip on how to trim ends if you really feel the need. 

Nako