TS-55 and 1 7/8" Countertop

[Stone]

I've ordered a new wood countertop, made from laminated Alder, which is 1 7/8" thick.  I will need to trim about 1" off the width and about 3" off the length.  I've got a TS-55.  The documentation states that the TS-55 will cut to 1 15/16".  Should I be able to use it for this (with the guide)?  The countertop will be too heavy for me to safely use my table saw.

Thanks.

 

[Vindingo]

You will be able to make the cut on the guide rail.  

You might want to make your rip cut in two passes, as the stock blade is really a cross cut blade, or look into a panther blade.  The panther blade will rip through the wood like butter, but it won't leave a finished edge like the stock blade.  

Depth wise, you will be fine with both.  

 

[Stone]

Thank you.  Very helpful.

 

[semenza]

Hi Stone,

Welcome to the FOG!

+1 , What Vindingo said.    I have cut 1 7/8" thick with my TS55, it will do it.

Seth

 

[tbellemare]

The "55" of the TS 55 is how deep it will cut at 90 degrees and off the rail, 55 mm or 2.1654".

The rail is 5 mm thick so on the rail, it cuts 50 mm or 1.9685". Your thickness of 1-7/8" is 1.875" so you have plenty to spare.

Tom

 

[mouppe]

I think if I were you I would get close with a jigsaw and then run a clean-up pass with the TS55. I have found my TS55 is not ideally suited to making cuts almost 2" deep, particularly if the wood wants to bind at all.

 

[Jaybolishes]

I agree with richard, the Ts55 is a great saw, but anything over and inch thick is just too much for the ts55.  I just did a kitchen remodel and I had to cut a lot of maple butcher block countertops.  My TS55 overheated and stopped working to cool down about seven or more times.  There was a lot of waiting.  I think before doing another counter top project I'll bite the bullet and get the Ts75.  When doing the 45 degree cuts for the corners I swore I was cutting through concrete.  That 75 would have been great.  I love my 55 for sheat goods and thinner material though. 

 

[Vindingo]

I agree with richard, the Ts55 is a great saw, but anything over and inch thick is just too much for the ts55.  I just did a kitchen remodel and I had to cut a lot of maple butcher block countertops.  My TS55 overheated and stopped working to cool down about seven or more times.  There was a lot of waiting.  I think before doing another counter top project I'll bite the bullet and get the Ts75.  When doing the 45 degree cuts for the corners I swore I was cutting through concrete.  That 75 would have been great.  I love my 55 for sheat goods and thinner material though. 

What blade were you using?  Was it sharp? 

The difference is night and day if you are using the correct blade.  Most people who rip thick material with the stock blade are unhappy with it.

I have ripped oak, maple, and walnut countertops with the stock blade, and with a panther blade its like you are using a completely different tool.  My saw would overheat ripping at full depth with the stock blade too, it never happens with the correct blade. 

As for the miters, making two passes with the saw is the way to go.  The saw won't overhead and it is faster than waiting for the saw to cool down.   

 

[rvieceli]

You might want to reconsider trimming the inch off the width.

An extra inch of overhang shouldn't be too much of a problem.

 

[Sparktrician]

I'm with those that feel that the TS55 can handle the job.  If, however, the result is not completely satisfactory, you can take the OF2200 or the OF1400 on a guide rail with a 2.5" straight bit and just kiss the cut edge to dress it up for final round-over routing and sanding.  Just be absolutely certain to hold the router solidly to the guide rail and not let the router tip or you'll mess up the cut edge.  

[smile]

 

[Jaybolishes]

I was using the stock blade and it was sharp. What kind of edge will the panther leave?  I've been to my local dealers looking for the panther 2.2 but they both only have the 2.5. I'll be ording it online today.  I still want the 75.  I like making cuts in one pass and I would like to rip sheat goods two sheets at a time.  My ts55 will not always stay cool when rapidly cutting sheet goods.  I like the edge the stock blade leaves and if the panther requires a lot more sanding to achieve the same edge,  I think waiting a minute for it to cool will still be a good option.  Putting the vac hose over the 55's motor vents really speeds up the cooling time as well.

 

[lambeater]

Just ripped down a 1 1/2 bamboo contertop wih no problems, Relise its not 1 7/8 but close. Had a new blade on also. Just used the regular blade, took it easy and had no chipping.

Lambeater.

 

[Stone Message]

I am sorry to be a little late with this...

I used the TS55R (for the purposes of this job the spec is the same) for a 45mm walnut top a few months ago. It cut like a charm. Cross grain is brilliant with the 48 tooth blade but you do need to switch to the Universal blade for ripping.

Here is a very poor quality picture taken in a customer's house.

Peter

 

[BMH]

+1 on the ripping blade. Had the same poor experience ripping a countertop till I got the Panter blade. It left some marks on my 45 degree cut. I touched up both pieces with the router and a trim bit, 10 mn of extra work for a perfect finish. I know have 4 different blades all in 2.2 kerf for different jobs.

Bruce

 

[Vindingo]

I was using the stock blade and it was sharp. What kind of edge will the panther leave?  I've been to my local dealers looking for the panther 2.2 but they both only have the 2.5. I'll be ording it online today.  I still want the 75.  I like making cuts in one pass and I would like to rip sheat goods two sheets at a time.  My ts55 will not always stay cool when rapidly cutting sheet goods.  I like the edge the stock blade leaves and if the panther requires a lot more sanding to achieve the same edge,  I think waiting a minute for it to cool will still be a good option.  Putting the vac hose over the 55's motor vents really speeds up the cooling time as well.

A cut with the panther blade won't leave a acceptable finish if its for an island or a visible edge.  Along a wall with a back splash, definitely.  I guess it depends on the situation.  I used it to rip 2x8's today  [eek]  the same cut would stall 3 times with the stock blade.  The rough cut in that instance didn't matter.

I can understand wanting to cut multiple sheets, or making a single pass with a TS75, but I think many are quick to dismiss the TS55 as under powered due to blade choice.  I really wish the TS55 could cut a full 2" though, as that extra 1/8" would have really really helped me out on a couple of occasions. 

On a similar note, to people who own one or both, does the TS75 leave a finished quality cut?  I have read otherwise, but have no first hand experience. 

 

 

[promhandicam]

If you only have the standard 48t blade and don't want to spend yet more money just do the ripping in several passes - 15mm at a time and you won't have any problem. I've been doing this today trimming new oak doors that I'm hanging and I couldn't be arsed to keep changing the blade.

 

[Jaybolishes]

I'm kinda new to the festool world, so please pardon my lack in knowledge. I was told here to buy a panther blade, or a different blade than the stock blade.  But I went to my dealer and found out the panther blade only comes in a 2.5 mm blade, is that true?  In fact he pointed out there are only two blades I believe that come in the 2.2mm.  So if I understand this right, if I go with a panther blade, it's going to cut more off of my splinter guard on the rail.  Who would ever do that?  This seems completely ridiculous to me if that's true. Who would use different blades if the stock blade is 2.2 and all the others are 2.5.  I'm sure there are reasons for the extra thickness, but if you can't get all the blades in the same thickness, what am I to do, have rails for 2.5 and rails for 2.2.  I'm sure this issue has been beaten like a dead horse, but I'm just confused on why 2.2 blades are so limited.  Someone help!!

 

[peter halle]

Jay,

You dealer has old stock.  The Panther (ripping) blade changed over about 1.5 - 2 years ago.  It now has the same kerf (2.2 mm) as the other blades.

Peter

 

[DKurzweil]

I'm kinda new to the festool world, so please pardon my lack in knowledge. I was told here to buy a panther blade, or a different blade than the stock blade.  But I went to my dealer and found out the panther blade only comes in a 2.5 mm blade, is that true?  In fact he pointed out there are only two blades I believe that come in the 2.2mm.  So if I understand this right, if I go with a panther blade, it's going to cut more off of my splinter guard on the rail.  Who would ever do that?  This seems completely ridiculous to me if that's true. Who would use different blades if the stock blade is 2.2 and all the others are 2.5.  I'm sure there are reasons for the extra thickness, but if you can't get all the blades in the same thickness, what am I to do, have rails for 2.5 and rails for 2.2.  I'm sure this issue has been beaten like a dead horse, but I'm just confused on why 2.2 blades are so limited.  Someone help!!

I believe sometime in the past 6 months to a year they released 2.2mm kerf versions of all the blades.

Best,
Daniel

Edit:  Peter beat me to the punch  [cool]

 

[Jaybolishes]

Hmm, wierd, he was looking in the new catalogue and came up with that.  I just went to the festool USA site and found more blades in the 2.2 than he told me about.  But on the USA festool site it shows only a 2.5 panther.  I believe you guys, I'll have to find a place to get a 2.2 panther, I like toolnut, they didn't state the kerf but said it was the thin kerf, so that must be the 2.2.  Great guys thanks