TS 55 bad blade,no balls or is it me

[jframe]

Ripping down some 3/4 birch ply for a project today and  I finally had to give up because the saw wouldn't cut.I dont know if it's me(maybe) the blade's dull(prolly) or the 55 is gutless(highly doubt it). her's the details

45degree rip 8' long x6''
3/4 sanded birch ply,on 2x4s on saw horses
stock ts 55 w/ stock blade  ct22 hooked up
2x4 centered under kerf-blade set about a 1/16 past
2x4s are pretty staight
42'' and 55'' rails connected,checked against 6' stabila

that's all the pertinent details I can think of,I doubt that it's the saw,because if used it pkenty in the months I 've had it.I doubt it's me,because I've been a carpenter 15 yrs and have cut miles of rips
I think it the blade but I'm not sure ,when I cut at 90 degrees it seems to cut okay,pretty much splinter free and easily mows through the ply,but at 45 bevel it goes about 2'' per minut and if I push it at all it bogs and stops

Tell me that I just need to go to rockler and get the panther or standard,and that it's not my saw,cuz I dont wanto get the worm drive out,especially after getting used to not having any dust around (thanks ct22)

thanks in advance for your input

 

[Brice Burrell]

I'd try cleaning the blade before having it sharpened or buying a new one.

 

[danrush]

I would suspect the blade first.  Remember that when cutting at a 45, you're cutting 50% more material than a 90 cut.

I know you said you were experienced, but are you sure that the work is well supported?  More than once I have bound up a blade or two on sub-par supports. 

Also, when cutting on a 45, be REALLY, REALLY sure the saw is firmly flat on the guide, and the guide is firmly flat on the cutting surface.  I find that the 55 and 75 tend to lean into the cut-off material if I don't pay attention when cutting on the 45.

Dan

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I would buy 2 new blades and send that one off to the sharpener.

I just dropped 5 blades off today and decided it would be a good time to buy a couple more blades.

4 ts-55 blades now and 4 kapex blades, wooohoooo.

Try cleaning it, also make sure the saw is staying flat on the rail when making that 45 bevel cut.

 

[jframe]

I' fairly certain the work is supported and I know ripping at 45 is harder but I'm not cutting 10/12 seat cuts in 2x10 dou fir,I keep my left hand on the saw's base to make sure the base is flat on the rail,I guess it's the blade,it's had a short but hard life since I've got it-prolly clean it sat.

If you guys were going to get a blade for ripping what blade would you get? festool,freud,tenryu,matsusuhtsu  I may have no choice but the festool blades with it being short notice....rockler is the only place I know that has them and is open on sat

 

[peter halle]

Ripping blade would be Tenryu in my opinion.

Peter

 

[danrush]

I'm pretty sure I'm in the minority with my preference here, but I cut alot of pre-finished cabinet ply (mostly maple).  My go-to blade is the Festool 48 tooth finish.  Not necessarily the first recommendation of many for ripping, but you mentioned 3/4 ply.  I find that I'm willing to give a little on cut speed for the cleanest cut.  ( and yes, I go through more blades than most)

Dan

 

[WarnerConstCo.]

I agree with Dan, for all fine ripping in ply and such, I would stick with the 48t.

I use my 24t tenryu 75% of the time in my 55.  I cut a lot of doors though.

 

[rnt80]

I have a Tenryu blade on my 55 and I've had it bog down on a 45 degree rip in ply a couple of times.  I've never used the 75 since the 55 will do just about anything I ask it to but it's been those couple of times that the 55 has bogged down that I've wondered about picking up a 75.

 

[MarkF]

The few times I've cut 45s I make the initial cut at 90 degrees a little too long and then come back with the blade set for 45 degrees dead on the line. 

 

[jframe]

well guys, thanks to everybody who replied,I picked up the 28t univ.blade this am at rockler (it was all they stocked other than the 48t) problem solved! cuts like butter,not the cleanest cut,but that I can deal with.Just too damn hot too work in the garage today,it's gonna have to wait......

 

[zapdafish]

one other thing to look at is the ribs of the dust hose catching on the edge of the board. it's happened to me a few times.

I'll be sawing a cut and then the saw seems to stop or hit a patch where it takes alot of effort to get the saw to continue and then realizing the hose has gotten caught.

 

[jujigatame]

I don't mean to insult you, but did you make sure the blade isn't in backwards.

It happens.

 

[jframe]

I don't mean to insult you, but did you make sure the blade isn't in backwards.

It happens.

Your kidding,right?

 

[jujigatame]

I don't mean to insult you, but did you make sure the blade isn't in backwards.

It happens.

Your kidding,right?

Unfortunately, no.

I had a friend complain that his table saw was weak and didn't cut cleanly.  He was using a good blade, and the saw, while not a great saw, was not a piece of junk.

I went over there one day to see if I could help him out, and saw that the blade was in backwards.

It still cut, though slowly and not cleanly.  Once I turned the blade around for him it was like a different saw.

I also have a friend that is a GC and he told me that the guys prank each other all the time by flipping the blade in the saws.

Like I said, I don't mean to insult, you probably have more experience than I do, but it is an easy mistake to make if you aren't paying attention, or if you work with a bunch of jerks.

 

[jframe]

I understand,and I wasn't being a jerk(that's the problem with type instead of talk)anyway I got a new blade and things have worked out great. thanks to all that replied [wink]