TS-55 bevel cutting - can't get straight line

K

Kent Whitten

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Mar 11, 2011
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I don't use the TS-55 much for ripping bevels full length of ply. When I do though, I have the damndest time keeping the cut straight. Now, before you suggest some things, I will tell you what I am positive of that I am doing to make sure things are straight.

  • The blade is sharp
  • The table is flat
  • The board is flat
  • I have the 2700mm rail
  • The piece is definitely not moving
  • I cut to width first on the 90, then cut on the 45
  • Plenty of rail support
  • I'm not rocking the saw, place plenty of pressure down on the baseplate

It cuts through fine with no burning at all. Easy pushing, but it still is a 45 bevel. 20 amp circuit it's running off of.

What I get pretty much every time, no matter the length of the piece I am ripping, I get a curved cut. The ends are longer than the mid section. It's not a perfect curve, it comes on strong near the end of the panels.

Am I still getting blade deflection? Do I need to cut halfway, then cut full depth? Using the standard 48 tooth blade.
 
I all likelihood you're pushing against the rail in the middle of the cut. This is most obvious when the rail is clamped because they stay fixed and you bend the center of the rail.
 
I'll have to place another block in the middle to try, but one piece I know was only 3' long and I still got this slight curve to it.
 
Could also be the tension in the ply 'releasing' as you cut it. Have you tried cutting it a few mm oversize, then moving the rail over and making your final cut?
 
Go slow and make sure you're not pushing the saw sideways at all. No lateral pressure. Keep your arm(s) and body aligned with the saw as much as possible.
 
While I have definitely witnessed that, and concur that it does exist, this is happening on every piece - whether it is plywood or solid lumber. When I cut my ply, it is cut to width 90° and my bevel is right on the edge of the square cut.
 
I always cut my mitre/bevel first, on an oversize piece, then make all other cuts from that edge, whether on a panel saw or when using a TS.
 
Do you have the work supported underneath?  I have cut bevels in 38mm with no issues. Do you have a set of parallel guides?

I find that sometimes it is easier to use hardly any clamp pressure. Try it on scrap (sounds like you have a few pieces [wink] ) with zero clamping and see if you have the same results.
 
Yes, work table is very flat, shop table. 5x9 size. 1-1/2" thick top. Yeah I have a few scrap pieces, funny :)  I have some stop blocks set on the end of the rails. Nothing moves, but I suppose it potentially could flex in the middle when cutting. I just don't see how in 3' though. Over an 8' rip, sure.
 
Draw a line with the splinter guard, flip the tail end over end and draw another line on top to rule out the rail. Then move the rail off of that line by about 10mm and make a cut. See how far off the line it is.
 
Kent, as Shane suggested your shifting the rail in the center. Add a stop as you thought, the problem will go away. With some part practice you'll no longer need the block, I rip solids and sheet goods on a bevel often, just had to learn to relax a little, solved my issue with the bow.

Tom
 
Yeah, I just tried two rips and it's better, not perfect, but I can deal with it. I think part of it is also maybe the sawblade is not brand new sharp. Not getting any burn, but I can still feel a little binding.

This is for miter folding for cabinetry, so straight is important to me. Any deviation and it's screwy.

Thank you everyone. Much appreciated.
 
  Even though the cuts may be short (3' ?) you may still get some deflection from a slight side push if the rail is long. It can be difficult to keep the saw plunged at 45 and not introduce some side pushing. Try one hand on the saw handle and the other applying some force to the saw base plate on the edge of the motor side. Sort of pressing it down on the guide rail.

Seth
 
Kent, do what Seth mentioned, hand pressure on the base plate. I do this, it is natural now, forgot I do it.

Tom
 
I get the same thing.  But I know what my problem is.  And there's no advice from any expert that will fix it.  And no tool I can afford will fix it.  It can be summed up in one sentence.

I never, never, never get flat plywood. 

$130 a sheet domestic picked from the middle of the stack?  Nope, not flat.  It may be flat when I load it but it's not going to be flat when I cut it.  And after the first cut it's going to be worse.  That's my life.  Stack it flat?  No good.  Stack it vertically on any edge?  No good.  Bring it home and cut it immediately?  No good. 

So the TS55 is always better than trying to cut bevels on my cabinet saw.
 
Kent,

I also put hand pressure on the plate.  But it that doesn't feel natural to you take a look at this accessory.  It can be used on either side of the saw and with the rail it can can serve as an outrigger for your hand, or if you can use it on the off cut side with it extended out far enough it will virtually stop the tilting by itself.  Oh, it can be used in the traditional way also.

Peter
 
[smile] [unsure]

And that accessory is ?

[popcorn]

Or have I missed something here Peter?
 
As mentioned above a few times, cut slightly oversize (either at 90 degrees or or the bevel angle).  Then reposition and make the "real" cut.  Think of it as a planing operation.  I sometimes set the angle to slightly greater than 45 degrees on the new TS55REQ to make sure the outer edges match tightly (don't overdo this, a fraction of a degree is more than enough).

The sporadic curve problem goes away unless warped plywood unknowingly is used.
 
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