ts 55 cutting issue

[donnenwerth woodworking]

As I finish cutting material with my ts 55, I can hear and see that as the blade comes out of the material it takes more off to the left of the cut line. 

Any ideas what is causing this?  Dull blade?

 

[Stephen B]

[size=14pt]

Is the leading edge of the base plate still on the rail?

 

[donnenwerth woodworking]

Yes it is.  It happens just as the blade comes out of the material I'm cutting

 

[tbellemare]

Is the front guide rail gib on the saw still engaged? There are two parts that grip the ridge on the guide rail, one front and one farther back on the saw. Is the one toward the front still fully engaged when you end the cut?

The guide rail needs to extend past the end of the cut a large portion of the length of the saw's sole.

Tom

 

[semenza]

As I finish cutting material with my ts 55, I can hear and see that as the blade comes out of the material it takes more off to the left of the cut line. 

Any ideas what is causing this?  Dull blade?

Hi,

  Welcome to the forum!  [smile]

  Shaves a bit of the upper last 1/2"?  I get that myself sometimes.

      I am not sure if this is the cause but it may just be that as the blade rises the upward motion causes just a slight movement that affectively makes the saw lean toward the left.  Generally I either let the saw clear the piece entirely or let the blade spin down before un-plunging.

    I might be wrong about the cause.

Seth

 

[donnenwerth woodworking]

Yeah Seth that's about exactly what its doing,  but doesn't seem to matter if I finish the cut plunged down all the way or release it at the end of the material. Seems to make the same mark either way.  Here is a photo, kind of hard to see but it is visible to me and kind of annoying.  I'm just lucky that I haven't had to make any really important cuts lately.  I may just try a new blade.  I have had this saw for a few years and its the original blade.

 

[tiralie]

It looks like too much toe in...based on the splinter guard. Maybe the saw got bumped out of alignment.
Tim

 

[tbellemare]

The splinter guard does seem a long way from the cut?

Tom

 

[donnenwerth woodworking]

How do you adjust this on the saw then?  And yes a new splinter guard is needed.

 

[xtrememtnbiker]

You may or may not know this but you can move the splinter guards over. I moved mine by laying it out in the sun for about 30 minutes on a day where it was 85°. It came off very easy, then I re applied it while still out in the sun, then took it into the shop which was more like 70° and laid it down flat for a couple minutes. Worked just fine and I've had no issues with it coming un stuck. You can also use VHB tape to re stick it I've heard.

 

[Rick Christopherson]

The splinter guard does seem a long way from the cut?

Tom

I am pretty sure the photo was staged just to show the crooked end of the cut and not how far away from the guide rail the saw is actually cutting. To the best of my knowledge, a TS55 can't cut that far away from the aluminum no matter how far out of whack it got.

Given the shape of the cut at the end of the cut, I suspect that the guide rail cams are not adjusted, or he is allowing the saw to run past the end of the rail. The TS55REQ or TS55EQ Supplemental Manuals should discuss both of these conditions, if memory serves me.

Edit: (TS55REQ: Page 7 for adjusting the cams, and page 11 discussing the length of the rails past the end of the workpiece)

[attachimg=1]

 

[semenza]

I have had that exact thing happen with plenty of rail left. So maybe it is a slightly loose cams.

Seth

 

[donnenwerth woodworking]

Definitely have enough of the rail past the material.  The last things I was cutting were only 20" long.  I will check out the guide rail cams tomorrow.

Xtreme,  thanks for the tip.  I will have to try this when we have a warm day here in Michigan. 

 

[rst]

I just bought a recon TS55, looks like new, with new blade.  Love it, however, the blade was not perpendicular to the rails.  It was an easy fix for me as I am comfortable with machine tool work and have accurate calipers, do my own repairs and rebuilds, and was easy to adjust using the supplemental manual.  I also used the manuals to calibrate my 75 so the kerfs were in line on the rails.  If the blade is not in line front and back with the rails, you will get funky end cuts.  The bases are adjustable, the 75 more so than the 55.

 

[Mavrik]

The rails themselves can twist slightly if not fully supported. I was having inaccuracies.  Replaced the rail. Have been more diligent in ensuring perfect support left and right under the rail. And it got more accurate.  Doesn't sound like the same problem but outside chance it is