TS 55 motor loses torque - then regains it?

[Kodi Crescent]

Hi,

I've been ripping some 5/4 Poplar with a TS55 using the stock blade (yes, I know, there is a rip blade).  I cranked the speed control up to 6 and was cutting away.  The motor was "screaming" although this may be normal at this speed.  I usually keep the speed at 4.

After cutting for about 20 minutes, I noticed this very odd phenomenon that I hadn't experienced before.  The saw is chugging along, cutting fine, and then it bogs down and nearly stops.  The circuit breaker did not trip.  I stop the saw, and then go to resume the cut, and the saw is spinning at a low power.  The blade has some speed, but no torque.  It does this for a few minutes, and then it regains its full torque and speed and is working like it was previously.

What's going on?

Thanks!

 

[TOOLTOWN]

I may be wrong, but this sounds like the electronics of the saw doing their job to protect the motor.

The saw may have started to get too warm.  To combat this the saw's electronics slowed and reduced the power of the saw.  Once everything cooled down the power picked up.

Ken

 

[tjbnwi]

That's why there is a rip blade available.

Tom

 

[mouppe]

Why do you "usually keep the speed at 4?" Unless you are cutting plastic or on other rare occasions, you should leave the saw at 6.

I had the same issue as you recently when I was cutting 2 inch plywood. The saw was getting too warm and needed a 10 second cool-off.

Try cutting half the depth with a first pass, then moving the saw over a fraction and cutting full depth. This will ease the pressure on the motor and still give you a perfect edge.

 

[tjbnwi]

Why move the saw ???

Tom

 

[mouppe]

You don't have to move the saw but it does ensure that you get a perfect cut. I'm just talking about 1/32" or so. Otherwise if the guide rail moves ever so slightly between cuts you will see the lip on the edge.

Since you are making two passes anyway, it is little extra work to ensure a perfect cut on the line.

 

[tbellemare]

Because of the toe-in, theoretically, you will cut slightly closer to the guide rail when the plunge is deeper. I've never noticed any degradation of the cut when I made a second, deeper pass.

Tom

 

[semenza]

I may be wrong, but this sounds like the electronics of the saw doing their job to protect the motor.

The saw may have started to get too warm.  To combat this the saw's electronics slowed and reduced the power of the saw.  Once everything cooled down the power picked up.

Ken

That is exactly what it sounds like to me too.  I use the Fine blade for ripping poplar frequently myself. Even though it isn't a rip blade it cuts poplar easily and produces a nice clean cut.  Is the blade maybe getting dull? Or did you make a lot of cuts? or fast cuts?  Anything that might cause the saw to heat up.

Seth

 

[MrMac]

another vote for a sharp blade. I found out the hard way that a dull blade will give you no end of grief. I thought it was sharp, until I bought a new blade(s) so now I have three sharp blades (fine) and one ripping blade. Darn thing just keeps producing excellent cuts. I've been thinking about the new version, but I think I'll wait until all the bugs are worked out.

 

[Kodi Crescent]

The blade is probably dull.  I used the saw yesterday and it seemed to work fine.  But it's probably time for a sharp blade.