TS 55 not cutting square at end of cut

[AndrewMull]

I have an older TS 55 (4 or 5 years old).  I've never had a problem with it, but am now experiencing an odd problem.  At the end of a cut (using the guide rail), it is clipping the top of plywood at a slight angle.  So just the end is not square.  Start of cut is good, middle is square, but just the last 1/2 inch is clipped.  I've tried to stop at different positions while reaching the end and all produce the same result.  I even stopped the saw with the blade plunged.  Blade is tight, no vibrations, everything seems OK.  Any help would be appreciated.  Thanks!

 

[getyourbone]

Blade not running parallel to rail?

 

[peter halle]

Strange that you would be having issues after using it for such a length of time.  That would usually rule out user technique issues.  Are your saw to rail adjustment knobs loose?  Wear over a length of time can allow for a little movement slowly over time without noticing it.  Are you running the blade past the workpiece?  And finally, have you checked the quality of the cut before you get to the ends?  It is possible that over this length of time the toe-in on the blade needs to be adjusted.  In case you have never made the adjustment the rear of the blade should be a little tiny bit further away from the saw body.  I use a business card to make the adjustment.

Peter

 

[getyourbone]

Not to hijack because I think it could be relevant...

What year did Festool change the nature of the glides on the bottom of the base?

The saw I purchased back about 8? years ago has the green adjustment wheel riding right next to the track of the rail and aluminum on the other side.  I just picked up another ts55 a few days ago used and it has black plastic in-between the green wheel and the rail track and black plastic on the other side instead of aluminum to aluminum.

The problem he is speaking of almost sounds like maybe one of the plastic pieces went missing?

 

[peter halle]

I don't know exactly when but the new design has been used for at least 5 or 6 years I think.  The change came about to address the wear over time.  I believe that it is only on the TS-55 - not the 75.

Peter

 

[AndrewMull]

Thanks for the suggestions.  I'll try to find the setup video/instructions and re-calibrate the TS.  I didn't notice any slop, but it certainly wont hurt.  I didn't know about the toe-in aspect either.

In testing, I did push the saw all the way past the end....as well as stop a the middle of the blade.  The middle was certainly better, but still a slight bevel.  Maybe it is with the rail adjustment knobs...I don't feel it shift...but it could be that when the blade is unsupported by the work piece, it shifts just enough.

Thanks again!

 

[JayWhite]

Im having the same problem, clipping the very end of the cut. I tried on the mft, and on a bench with a rail same problem. How did you resolve this issue.

Thanks.

 

[tdwilli1]

I was having this issue also and talked with their support and ended up sending it in for repair. They ended up replacing the base with the newer style as part of the repair and did it at no charge. Cuts great now.

 

[AndrewMull]

I never really solved it completely.  However, after some time spend re-calibrating the set screws on the base plate, is seems to be a little better.  When I get bored and have a bunch of scrap plywood, I plan on redoing my entire setup to try and dial it in completely.  It is a shame as the cuts are perfect except at the end.

 

[AndrewMull]

They will do that with an 8 or 9 year old saw?

I was having this issue also and talked with their support and ended up sending it in for repair. They ended up replacing the base with the newer style as part of the repair and did it at no charge. Cuts great now.

 

[semenza]

Belated welcome to the forum  [smile]

    I used to have that same problem exactly as you describe. And I don't know if the cause of yours and mine are the same but I solved it for me. I get that very same little  1/2"  clip / bevel at the top of the cut  if I don't let the blade stop spinning before I raise it. And while it is winding down I am very careful not to move the saw handle at all. I just freeze at the end of the cut. If I raise it before the blade stops I almost always see the clipped spot. 

    Now, there could be something out of adjustment or what not and if so I would like to track it down too. But I never gave it a thought because it made sense that if the blade wiggles a bit or deflects slightly on the way up that it would cause that little clipped spot. Seemed like it was just the nature of the beast to me. It has become such a habit of letting the blade wind down that I never bothered to experiment further.

    These are cuts being made on a solid table top / cutting surface with the rail ends well supported by like thickness supports. Guide rail gibs are adjusted. And when I say blade wiggles or moves I really mean saw body due to upward movement or force on the handle, etc. Not the blade being loose or something.

Seth

 

[JayWhite]

I was having this issue also and talked with their support and ended up sending it in for repair. They ended up replacing the base with the newer style as part of the repair and did it at no charge. Cuts great now.

Thanks for the response. Maybe I will contact them.

 

[JayWhite]

I never really solved it completely.  However, after some time spend re-calibrating the set screws on the base plate, is seems to be a little better.  When I get bored and have a bunch of scrap plywood, I plan on redoing my entire setup to try and dial it in completely.  It is a shame as the cuts are perfect except at the end.

Thank you for responding. I will try to fool around with it some more when time permits. Business, kids, and sports eat up a lot of time!!!!

 

[JayWhite]

Belated welcome to the forum  [smile]

    I used to have that same problem exactly as you describe. And I don't know if the cause of yours and mine are the same but I solved it for me. I get that very same little  1/2"  clip / bevel at the top of the cut  if I don't let the blade stop spinning before I raise it. And while it is winding down I am very careful not to move the saw handle at all. I just freeze at the end of the cut. If I raise it before the blade stops I almost always see the clipped spot. 

    Now, there could be something out of adjustment or what not and if so I would like to track it down too. But I never gave it a thought because it made sense that if the blade wiggles a bit or deflects slightly on the way up that it would cause that little clipped spot. Seemed like it was just the nature of the beast to me. It has become such a habit of letting the blade wind down that I never bothered to experiment further.

    These are cuts being made on a solid table top / cutting surface with the rail ends well supported by like thickness supports. Guide rail gibs are adjusted. And when I say blade wiggles or moves I really mean saw body due to upward movement or force on the handle, etc. Not the blade being loose or something.

Seth

Lol, Thanks for the welcome. Long time lurker, and info gatherer!!!  I will experiment with your suggestion to see if it resolves my issue. Thanks for the info.

 

[semenza]

Wow, there's a coincidence ....... two long time lurking members choose to make first posts on this topic and now both have four posts.

  Happy de-lurking Andrew and Jay !  [thumbs up]

Seth

 

[tdwilli1]

They will do that with an 8 or 9 year old saw?

I was having this issue also and talked with their support and ended up sending it in for repair. They ended up replacing the base with the newer style as part of the repair and did it at no charge. Cuts great now.

Don't know about that as my was between 1 and 2 years old. Was out of warranty I think and the still fixed it.

 

[JayWhite]

Belated welcome to the forum  [smile]

    I used to have that same problem exactly as you describe. And I don't know if the cause of yours and mine are the same but I solved it for me. I get that very same little  1/2"  clip / bevel at the top of the cut  if I don't let the blade stop spinning before I raise it. And while it is winding down I am very careful not to move the saw handle at all. I just freeze at the end of the cut. If I raise it before the blade stops I almost always see the clipped spot. 

    Now, there could be something out of adjustment or what not and if so I would like to track it down too. But I never gave it a thought because it made sense that if the blade wiggles a bit or deflects slightly on the way up that it would cause that little clipped spot. Seemed like it was just the nature of the beast to me. It has become such a habit of letting the blade wind down that I never bothered to experiment further.

    These are cuts being made on a solid table top / cutting surface with the rail ends well supported by like thickness supports. Guide rail gibs are adjusted. And when I say blade wiggles or moves I really mean saw body due to upward movement or force on the handle, etc. Not the blade being loose or something.

Seth

In between snow blowing and shoveling I went into the garage and tried what you said. Maybe I was not doing it correctly but it didn't seem to help my problem. I didn't post this earlier thinking I was going to fix one thing at a time but the bevel is off a little and it seems to be leaving saw burns even on basic 3/4 ply.

Now the unthinkable happened it fixed itself!!!!!  Just joking, I need to joke at a time like this. My gloved hands were wet and slippery from this beautiful Maine wintry mix, and............yup the saw slipped and landed on the floor. It cracked the blade cover enough so I had to pull the piece back so the blade would spin without it touching. I gently placed the saw safely away and walked away. The unfortunate thing is the saw has spent most of its life inside its systainer. I looked online and the cover I need is $50, so Im guessing if I need the base its going to be a lot more. I couldn't actually find a price on the base. Oh the luck one can have!!

Thanks again

 

[semenza]

Ouch!  Yes, sometimes just walking away is the best immediate course of action.

Seth

 

[Holmz]

[member=1619]SRSemenza[/member]

At other time one should run  [wink]

 

[JayWhite]

I spent some time out in the shop. I used the TS55 supplemental manual,http://www.waterfront-woods.com/festool/ and went through the saw. I did use Peter Halle's tip on using a business card to set the rear of the blade since I had one in my pocket. After making several test cuts, I did not get the clip at the end of my cut!!!
I took off the blade cover and used a file to smooth out where the crack was and was able to realign the two pieces. I know its there but its not really noticeable.

Thanks again for the help.
Jay

Strange that you would be having issues after using it for such a length of time.  That would usually rule out user technique issues.  Are your saw to rail adjustment knobs loose?  Wear over a length of time can allow for a little movement slowly over time without noticing it.  Are you running the blade past the workpiece?  And finally, have you checked the quality of the cut before you get to the ends?  It is possible that over this length of time the toe-in on the blade needs to be adjusted.  In case you have never made the adjustment the rear of the blade should be a little tiny bit further away from the saw body.  I use a business card to make the adjustment.

Peter