TS for drywall

[Saskataper]

A while back a festool rep told me that a track saw would be great for drywall and I kinda laughed (more so to myself), why would I use a $600 saw to do what I can do with a knife and square.
But I got to thinking today (which is never a good thing) I do custom drywall wainscotting which requires several sheets worth of drywall cut up into small strips usually 6" and less. Now I can do this with a knife and square but it's not that accurate as the blade can wander and the drywall doesn't usually snap cleanly (especially this new ultralight garbage) so I have to rasp the edges so my strips are only ever close to the dimension I want and the more accurate they are the easier the trimming is.
Now I just saw the parallel guide for the TS and that looks like it would work slick, I could rip a 4x8 sheet into 5" strips in no time at all and with no dust.

The other idea I had for it was for doing 2' tear outs after a flood, maybe using the parallel guides for the rail to support the track at 2'.

Anybody ever try there TS on drywal? How clean were the cuts when you did?

I would probably go with the TS75 and spark trap so I could use the steel blade incase of screws and if I ever need to cut quite rock which has a steel layer in it.

Sounds like a great excuse to buy a TS to me ;D

 

[tbellemare]

Tom, (tjbnwi), posted that he rips multiple sheets of drywall at once with a Festool TS.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

As Tom said, I cut stacks of drywall with my TS-55. Last batch was a 14 sheet stack of  4x12x1/2" ripped 12"x12'. Only sheet you have to mark is the top one, the blade marks the rest. I set the saw to cut 3, score the forth. 48 tooth blade.

For a "normal" sheet rock install, knife and square.

The other thing you can do with the Festool system is make drywall soffits without having to frame and corner bead. Get a 45° router bit without a bearing. Set the router depth so it just misses the backside of the face paper. Set up your rail and route the "V" groove, PL in the groove, fold, use masking tape to hold square until the PL sets up. Hang the soffit off 2x backer.

Tom

 

[Frank-Jan]

Tom, about those drywall soffits,...
I need to do a partially lowered ceiling soon (leaving coves for curtain rails etc.) and I wanted to try that method.
I read about it on a Belgian forum, and they recommend priming the exposed gypsum with a fixating primer before gluing. Is the primer necessary if you use the PL glue? And what type of glue works best, the stuff that comes in a caulk-tube, or in a glue-bottle? (It might be the same, but I think the bottled kind is more liquid.)

 

[Saskataper]

As Tom said, I cut stacks of drywall with my TS-55. Last batch was a 14 sheet stack of  4x12x1/2" ripped 12"x12'. Only sheet you have to mark is the top one, the blade marks the rest. I set the saw to cut 3, score the forth. 48 tooth blade.

For a "normal" sheet rock install, knife and square.

The other thing you can do with the Festool system is make drywall soffits without having to frame and corner bead. Get a 45° router bit without a bearing. Set the router depth so it just misses the backside of the face paper. Set up your rail and route the "V" groove, PL in the groove, fold, use masking tape to hold square until the PL sets up. Hang the soffit off 2x backer.

Tom

That's slick, so you just hang the soffit from a 2x on the wall and on the ceiling?
I could see doing that on short bulkheads but on longer ones it would be a pain to try and finish a butt joint on an outside corner and make it disappear. The durability of the corner would be a concern as well.

I've heard of guys ripping multiple sheets at once with a circ saw but have never had the need yet. How nice is the cut after? Does it come out like a factory end?
 

 

[tjbnwi]

Tom, about those drywall soffits,...
I need to do a partially lowered ceiling soon (leaving coves for curtain rails etc.) and I wanted to try that method.
I read about it on a Belgian forum, and they recommend priming the exposed gypsum with a fixating primer before gluing. Is the primer necessary if you use the PL glue? And what type of glue works best, the stuff that comes in a caulk-tube, or in a glue-bottle? (It might be the same, but I think the bottled kind is more liquid.)

I use the PL Premium in the chaulk tube. I've never used primer.

Use FibaFuse (Not FibaMesh) tape on your butt seams. If you can't get it there let me know, I'll mail you a roll.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

As Tom said, I cut stacks of drywall with my TS-55. Last batch was a 14 sheet stack of  4x12x1/2" ripped 12"x12'. Only sheet you have to mark is the top one, the blade marks the rest. I set the saw to cut 3, score the forth. 48 tooth blade.

For a "normal" sheet rock install, knife and square.

The other thing you can do with the Festool system is make drywall soffits without having to frame and corner bead. Get a 45° router bit without a bearing. Set the router depth so it just misses the backside of the face paper. Set up your rail and route the "V" groove, PL in the groove, fold, use masking tape to hold square until the PL sets up. Hang the soffit off 2x backer.

Tom

That's slick, so you just hang the soffit from a 2x on the wall and on the ceiling?
I could see doing that on short bulkheads but on longer ones it would be a pain to try and finish a butt joint on an outside corner and make it disappear. The durability of the corner would be a concern as well.

I've heard of guys ripping multiple sheets at once with a circ saw but have never had the need yet. How nice is the cut after? Does it come out like a factory end?
 

Yep, just hang it off 2x.

Taping the butt is no different than any othe butt. Just be careful sanding at the end of the feather. I ran the edges up on an angle.

As good as the factory edge, not paper fuzz with the 48 tooth blade.

Tom

 

[tjbnwi]

One other thing, make sure the CT hose does not fall off the tool.  

Tom

 

[Saskataper]

Very cool. I only use fibafuse, it's one of the best products I've ever come across.
Your near Chicago? You should check out the TrimTex design and training center in lincolnwood, they offer free two day training classes several times a year. You get a tour of the manufacturing facility and hands on training on how to install their decorative drywall products. You also get lunch and a bunch of swag when your done and a certified installers certificate. 

http://www.drywallart.com/get-involved/design-training-center/

They are a fantastic crew down there, I went a year and a half ago and had a great time. Later this month I'm headed to the west facility, which just happens to be a few miles from Disney, to take the advanced course.

 

[tjbnwi]

I missed a chance to go to the class. Got busy and could;d not spend the time away. I'll make it some day.

Tom

 

[Alan m]

iv used my ts55 for cutting drywall sheeting . it was that acustic sheet with the slots in it. we had to cut 2" off each end to keep the pattern centered.
it worked great . it left a perfect edge that needed no adjustment .
it does dull the blade so i used a dull one and will leave it for that job.

i wouldnt say its dustless but it is a lot better than with no dc ( dont let the hose come off)

over all it is well worth  using the saw