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If you like accurate beautiful cuts on stair stringers try one of the TS saws using Qwas Rail Dogs! Works great!
Peter
Peter
TS Saws cut great stair stringers
- Thread starter peter halle
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Something like this:
Mark your stringer and bring the shortest guide rail up to the mark.
[attachimg=1]
Slide the Rail Dogs onto the rail (they're on the bottom of the rail, you can't see them in the picture), one on each side of the stringer. Bring them up snug to the stringer and tighten.
[attachimg=2]
Make your cut, You can use the TS-55 stop on the rail so the cut ends at the same length each time. After the cut, slide the rail to the next parallel line. since the angle is the same, the rail should align to the mark. Continue until you reach the end of the stringer then turn the rail and the Rail Dogs should align perfect with the other sets of marks since they are 90 degrees to the other marks. Try it and you will see how easy it is. [smile]
Mark your stringer and bring the shortest guide rail up to the mark.
[attachimg=1]
Slide the Rail Dogs onto the rail (they're on the bottom of the rail, you can't see them in the picture), one on each side of the stringer. Bring them up snug to the stringer and tighten.
[attachimg=2]
Make your cut, You can use the TS-55 stop on the rail so the cut ends at the same length each time. After the cut, slide the rail to the next parallel line. since the angle is the same, the rail should align to the mark. Continue until you reach the end of the stringer then turn the rail and the Rail Dogs should align perfect with the other sets of marks since they are 90 degrees to the other marks. Try it and you will see how easy it is. [smile]
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Harry,
I spoke with Steve earlier and yes this is the technique I used along with the limit stop. I am currently downloading raw video for editing.
I am sure that experienced users will do exactly as you mentioned - potentially only use it for the dress or outside visible stringers, but after setting up the first complete step and taking one measurement you could actually do a full stringer without even taking the time to mark out the rest.
Peter
I spoke with Steve earlier and yes this is the technique I used along with the limit stop. I am currently downloading raw video for editing.
I am sure that experienced users will do exactly as you mentioned - potentially only use it for the dress or outside visible stringers, but after setting up the first complete step and taking one measurement you could actually do a full stringer without even taking the time to mark out the rest.
Peter
I have used my TS, actually my ATF55, to cut stringers quite a few times. I like the rail dog and flag stop ideas, I'll use that for sure. Even on rough stringers, and the occasional rafter I like to make a perfect plywood pattern with the rail and saw.
Brice Burrell
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Peter Halle said:
Can't wait to see that.
Since I do not have a particularly steady hand, I had taken to doing dress stringers with my SCMS. Although it does a beautiful job, it always seemed excessively time consuming. I can see this as being a big improvement. does 'handedness' of the saw come into play here? I envision it playing nicer for right-hand open than for lefts, but I suppose it being a plunge saw makes that less relevant.
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Brice Burrell said:
The video or my attempt at editing. [poke]
Peter
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mikeomalley
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Excellent video Peter.
duburban said:
In my experience, if this method were to be used, any errors introduced by inconsistencies of the lumber dimensions would still be better cut rough stringers than most of those I have applied finish work to. Over the last couple of years, most were like they were cut with chainsaw by the new guy
>
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Thanks for the comments.
Yes, if the wood isn't parallel it could cause issues. You could always mark out your stringer with a square and then use that as a double check. If I were to use rough stringers for my own home I would use microlams or engineered lumber. This approach could be used for skirt boards on an open end where the riser cut is a bevel. It works great. BUT I think that if you are going to use it for that you need to do a test cut. I believe that the starting and ending marks on the saw casing will not accurately reflect the cut once bevelled at 45 degrees.
Although the Qwas Rails Dogs are slick and make this easy, anyone who has to scraps of wood and 2 Festool clamps in addition to their rail can do the same thing.
Where this approach to repetitive angle cutting will benefit me is when cutting siding. I have a client that has a lot of siding that intersects 2:12 roofs. The angle cut is extremely long and a pattern is great, but this approach will save me time and make money. (My guess is that Brice might be smiling.)
Peter
Yes, if the wood isn't parallel it could cause issues. You could always mark out your stringer with a square and then use that as a double check. If I were to use rough stringers for my own home I would use microlams or engineered lumber. This approach could be used for skirt boards on an open end where the riser cut is a bevel. It works great. BUT I think that if you are going to use it for that you need to do a test cut. I believe that the starting and ending marks on the saw casing will not accurately reflect the cut once bevelled at 45 degrees.
Although the Qwas Rails Dogs are slick and make this easy, anyone who has to scraps of wood and 2 Festool clamps in addition to their rail can do the same thing.
Where this approach to repetitive angle cutting will benefit me is when cutting siding. I have a client that has a lot of siding that intersects 2:12 roofs. The angle cut is extremely long and a pattern is great, but this approach will save me time and make money. (My guess is that Brice might be smiling.)
Peter
