TS55 Adjusting cams & rail splinterguards.

[tomba26]

Got my extra 800mm guide rail today for my new TS55 so I now have what I feel will be a usefull set up for me.
One thing I'd like to ask is how much play is acceptable when the saw is sat on the rails? I set the cams initially on my 1400 rail and had virtually no play at all and then cut the splinterguard, however today when I went to cut the splinterguards on my new 800mm and additional 1400mm rails I noticed there was a little more play (so the first rail must be very fractionally different to the other 2). Will the additional 'play' affect the cut quality or is a little play ok?

Also am I correct in thinking that once you have cut the splintergaurd you cannot re-adjust the cams as the cutting edge would be different to the splinterguard itself, or again is it so fractional it won't make a difference?

I've only really cut some chipboard flooring sheets with it so far so it's difficult to tell whether splinteguards are working 100% but the saw is incredibly easy to use,  I'm very impressed so far.  [smile]

 

[Brice Burrell]

I think in theory this poses a problem.  It will depend on how much play you have.  Are you sure the cams are still adjusted to properly fit the old rails? 

 

[tomba26]

They are Brice, nice and snug on the first rail (any tighter and the saw would be slowed down with friction) but just a little play on the others.  If it makes any difference the 1400 rail I set the cams on initially is one of the newer ones with the holes for the router drilling jig.

 

[Corwin]

...
One thing I'd like to ask is how much play is acceptable when the saw is sat on the rails?
...
Will the additional 'play' affect the cut quality or is a little play ok?

You want to adjust the saw's gibs to be snug with the (each) rail prior to use.  An excess in play will cause the saw to cut poorly.

Also am I correct in thinking that once you have cut the splintergaurd you cannot re-adjust the cams as the cutting edge would be different to the splinterguard itself, or again is it so fractional it won't make a difference?
...

No, that's wrong.  The cutting will be different if you don't adjust/readjust the gibs/cams.  The raised portion of the Guide Rail is referred to as the "hat" -- and the saw indexes off that hat.  If the gibs are adjusted/readjusted properly, the saw will retain the same distance from the right-hand side of the hat  to the edge of the splinter guard. 

 

[tomba26]

Thanks Corwin.
So it's just a case of sitting the saw on the rail and if there is any play on a given rail just tweak the cams, if set correctly the saw should always be more or less in the same place with the splinterguard.

 

[Corwin]

Thanks Corwin.
So it's just a case of sitting the saw on the rail and if there is any play on a given rail just tweak the cams

Yep.

if set correctly the saw should always be more or less in the same place with the splinterguard.

Yeah, but there are a few things... 

• You probably used a shallow depth of cut to initially trim your splinter guard.  Due to the toe-in attitude of the saw, it will cut ever-so-slightly closer to the rail when set to a deeper cut.  So, you may notice a little of the splinter guard getting cut with each deeper setting until you actually cut it at full depth.  No problem, as this is too minimal to worry about, and just the nature of the setup. 
• There is also the chance that over time (and use) the recessed area of the saw's base becomes worn where it makes contact with the hat portion of the Guide Rail.  This wear would also change where the saw cuts.  But, the newer TS55 saws have addressed this issue with replaceable wear parts so all can be restored. 
• Different blades may also change where that cut line is -- and a warped or otherwise damaged blade may cut a closer to the rail.
• And if the base of your saw becomes out of adjustment -- as it can if you ever experience kickback from your saw -- it may cut in another position until you readjust the saw.

Heh, heh......  a little too much information for you?  [unsure]
Really a simple "yes" response should have done.

 

[tomba26]

Thanks Corwin.
So it's just a case of sitting the saw on the rail and if there is any play on a given rail just tweak the cams

Yep.

if set correctly the saw should always be more or less in the same place with the splinterguard.

Yeah, but there are a few things...  

• You probably used a shallow depth of cut to initially trim your splinter guard.  Due to the toe-in attitude of the saw, it will cut ever-so-slightly closer to the rail when set to a deeper cut.  So, you may notice a little of the splinter guard getting cut with each deeper setting until you actually cut it at full depth.  No problem, as this is too minimal to worry about, and just the nature of the setup.  
• There is also the chance that over time (and use) the recessed area of the saw's base becomes worn where it makes contact with the hat portion of the Guide Rail.  This wear would also change where the saw cuts.  But, the newer TS55 saws have addressed this issue with replaceable wear parts so all can be restored.  
• Different blades may also change where that cut line is -- and a warped or otherwise damaged blade may cut a closer to the rail.
• And if the base of your saw becomes out of adjustment -- as it can if you ever experience kickback from your saw -- it may cut in another position until you readjust the saw.

Heh, heh......  a little too much information for you?   [unsure]
Really a simple "yes" response should have done.

Excellent information and very much appreciated. Thanks.   [big grin]

 

[Corwin]

You're welcome, Tom.  The point of all that was to give you an understanding of what can go wrong, so that when you notice that your saw is not cutting at the same location in relation to the splinter guard, you will know what to check...  Now, go make some sawdust.  [big grin]

 

[Corwin]

Tom,

I hadn't taken into account the situation of joining two or more rails together in my posts above.  This isn't something I've needed to do since getting longer rails, so I hadn't given that the needed consideration...

Using any one of your rails individually will not be any problem for you, as long as you adjust the saw's gibs for the rail before you begin using that rail.  But, joining two or more rails together IS going to present a problem if the hat area of these rails vary too much.  Your description above does sound like joining your rails WILL be a problem as when you adjust the saw's gibs for one rail it will be either too loose or too tight when the saw reaches the next rail.  Since you have purchased a second 1400mm rail, I suspect that you do plan on joining these rail together -- if so, I suggest either calling your dealer or the service number on any of your Festool tools.  Sorry I hadn't considered this aspect before.  [embarassed]

 

[tomba26]

Corwin,
I actually had a bit of a play with the rails this morning and I found that by tweaking the cams ever such a little I have got the saw to sit more or less the same on both 1400mm rails.  [smile] It feels like it is just gripping the hat on both rails (a little friction) and there is no real sideways play. When the saw goes onto the 800mm rail there is more play than the 1400mm rails, no matter how much I tweak the saw.......however it is miniscule and to see it I do have to really try and move the saw side to side.  I really can't see it affecting the cut. I suppose I'll only know when I cut some decent timber, I have some Iroko doors to hang later this week so I'll get a better idea of cut from there.
Thanks again.