TS55, CT-Mini and MDF Dust- How's that combination?

BobKovacs

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Nov 26, 2007
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I'll be taking the Festool plunge shortly and investing in a TS-55 and CT-Mini, and my first few projects are some built-ins for the house.  I'm debating on the carcase material, and may go MDF over birch ply simply because it'll all be painted anyway, and for cost reduction.  Structurally, either material will work fine for the particular design, so I don't want to have that debate.  The question is this:

As anyone who has worked with MDF knows, cutting it produces ridiculous amounts of dust, and it's a fine, nasty dust that gets everywhere.  Will a TS-55 coupled to a CT-Mini pick up enough of that dust to make it viable to do the cutting inside the house, or am I out of my mind?  If not, would it be effective in picking up the sawdust from cutting birch ply in the same conditions (given that the dust from those cuts wouldn't tend to be as fine or as copious)?

 
Bob you're right, MDF dust is so fine that it goes airborne more readily than that of wood.  The TS55 collects dust very well, even MDF, however, collection isn't 100%.  When you reach the end of your cut, as the blade exits the material you get a blast of dust escaping collection.  Also, when trimming off a small amount of material, when the blade isn't completely buried in the material, collection isn't all that great. 

I've cut a lot of material inside with my TS55 and Mini but I still prefer to cut outside when it's practical.  When cutting outside there is rarely anything to cleanup after cutting sheet goods, since the airborne dust drifts harmlessly away, that's how good the collection is.  In the end it comes down to the standard of cleanliness for the job.  If the clients expect some dust from the project then cutting inside may work out.   
 
If the weather is nice, what's the advantage to cutting inside the house?
 
Richard Leon said:
If the weather is nice, what's the advantage to cutting inside the house?

There is no advantage- if the weather is nice.  Given the 95+ degree days we've had here lately though, the preference would be to cut inside if it's not going to create more heartburn that it's worth, hence the question.
 
I bought the CT22 and TS55 package. My dealer did not have the CT22 in stock but I went ahead and used the TS55 anyways on MDF.  The difference is huge. I and the rest of my shop was buried in dust and debris but I had a new toy and had to use it, hehe. Once the CT22 came in, hardly any dust at all. Like Brice said, there is a very small amount thrown at the end but I say it's definitely viable to do the cutting inside the house from a cleanup point of view.  The main thing about MDF is the fine dust that goes airborne and you can't see. I'd still wear a mask just to avoid breathing it if you are in a confined space.

I don't think the collection ability between the CT22 and Mini would make much of a difference.
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-sales-dealer-area/new-festool-vacuums-now-on-sale/
 
BobKovacs said:
Richard Leon said:
If the weather is nice, what's the advantage to cutting inside the house?

There is no advantage- if the weather is nice.   Given the 95+ degree days we've had here lately though, the preference would be to cut inside if it's not going to create more heartburn that it's worth, hence the question.

Absolutely, dip sweat on MDF and see what happens. 
 
Thanks Brice for reminding me!  [poke]

On my agenda for today, cutting mdf outside for wainscoting.  Forecast is 93 with 66 percent humidity.  Heat index 104.  my personal forecast - drip, drip, drip.  [eek]

Peter
 
Sounds like your project is for your own house.  In that case, I would definitely do the cutting inside, or maybe just to simplify the logistics of getting the material to the inside location, break down the sheets a little while outside, but make the final cuts inside.  I hate trying to carry big heavy sheets in tight spaces.
 
Jesse Cloud said:
Sounds like your project is for your own house.  In that case, I would definitely do the cutting inside, or maybe just to simplify the logistics of getting the material to the inside location, break down the sheets a little while outside, but make the final cuts inside.  I hate trying to carry big heavy sheets in tight spaces.

I'm thinking I may break the sheets down for width outside in the driveway on a cutting table, and limit the inside work to just cuts to length on the MFT and assembly.  That'll prevent dragging full sheets into the house, while still keeping most of the work inside.
 
I have experienced exactly what Brice described... the last 3 inches of cutting is a blast of dust out the front.  I have a Line-Loc funnel I sometimes put a little bit in front, just to catch it (the vac is hooked up to the saw!)

Any of our members have the TS cover plate?
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/stops-and-accessories/cover-plate-491750.html

Does it help significantly?  Does the cover plate provide enough sealing, to increase the vac suction's effectiveness to catch this otherwise stray dust?
 
Wood_Junkie said:
I have experienced exactly what Brice described... the last 3 inches of cutting is a blast of dust out the front.  I have a Line-Loc funnel I sometimes put a little bit in front, just to catch it (the vac is hooked up to the saw!)

Any of our members have the TS cover plate?
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/stops-and-accessories/cover-plate-491750.html

Does it help significantly?  Does the cover plate provide enough sealing, to increase the vac suction's effectiveness to catch this otherwise stray dust?

Yes, I've got the cover plate.  I did a short review a couple of years ago on it. Here's a quote from the review: "...this is not a "knock your socks off" improvement (in dust collection), I do however find it to be a worth while product."  Here's a link to the review, TS55 cover plate review by Brice Burrell.
 
Brice, where did you get that measurement sticker on the side of your ts55? I want one, hehe.

I got 3/4 one ingrained now but my memory aint what it used to be and since i rarely use the other thicknesses, I forget them pretty quick.
 
zapdafish said:
Brice, where did you get that measurement sticker on the side of your ts55? I want one, hehe.

I got 3/4 one ingrained now but my memory aint what it used to be and since i rarely use the other thicknesses, I forget them pretty quick.

I made it, it's just a clear inkjet printer label.
 
Brice Burrell said:
Wood_Junkie said:
I have experienced exactly what Brice described... the last 3 inches of cutting is a blast of dust out the front.  I have a Line-Loc funnel I sometimes put a little bit in front, just to catch it (the vac is hooked up to the saw!)

Any of our members have the TS cover plate?
http://www.festoolusa.com/products/plunge-cut-circular-saws/stops-and-accessories/cover-plate-491750.html

Does it help significantly?  Does the cover plate provide enough sealing, to increase the vac suction's effectiveness to catch this otherwise stray dust?

Yes, I've got the cover plate.  I did a short review a couple of years ago on it. Here's a quote from the review: "...this is not a "knock your socks off" improvement (in dust collection), I do however find it to be a worth while product."  Here's a link to the review, TS55 cover plate review by Brice Burrell.

Does it provide any splintguard effectiveness?  E.g. since the splinterguard must be removed, do you find the cut quality reduced?
This may be a moot question, really... I find 95% of the time, the right side of the cut is my waste side...  The rail splinterguard is the one providing tear-out protection.
 
I used my TS55 and CT22 to cut Ipe/Brazillian Maple.  The dust that produces is worse than MDF dust, seriously.

The setup did a fine job of collecting the dust, but nowhere near perfect.  In fact I thought there was something wrong with the saw or vac, but when I cut Maple the dust collection is near 100%.

With dusty material like Ipe or MDF, You will get a blast of dust out of the end of your cut, and it can be a lot.  I set up a plastic tarp that extends under the table and up to a height over the material about a foot away from the table and that catches most of the escaping dust.  Not all of it though.

That setup with the tarp will capture probably 95+% of the dust, but if you are cutting a lot of MDF, that remaining 5% will be a pretty big mess.
 
Wood_Junkie said:
I have experienced exactly what Brice described... the last 3 inches of cutting is a blast of dust out the front.

Maybe you can use a piece of scrap of the same thickness at the end of the cut, to stop while cutting that 'end piece' and so continue 'optimal' DC to the end of the intended cut.

Best, CJ'60
 
Wood_Junkie said:
Does it provide any splintguard effectiveness?  E.g. since the splinterguard must be removed, do you find the cut quality reduced?
This may be a moot question, really... I find 95% of the time, the right side of the cut is my waste side...  The rail splinterguard is the one providing tear-out protection.

No, it doesn't work as a splinterguarg in any way.  Not a big deal since I almost never use the green splinterguards for the waste side cutoff.
 
CJ'60 said:
Wood_Junkie said:
I have experienced exactly what Brice described... the last 3 inches of cutting is a blast of dust out the front.

Maybe you can use a piece of scrap of the same thickness at the end of the cut, to stop while cutting that 'end piece' and so continue 'optimal' DC to the end of the intended cut.

Best, CJ'60

Yes, that works, problem is you'd need a new piece for each cut since the dust will escape through the kerf in the "end piece" once cut.
 
Brice Burrell said:
CJ'60 said:
Wood_Junkie said:
I have experienced exactly what Brice described... the last 3 inches of cutting is a blast of dust out the front.

Maybe you can use a piece of scrap of the same thickness at the end of the cut, to stop while cutting that 'end piece' and so continue 'optimal' DC to the end of the intended cut.

Best, CJ'60

Yes, that works, problem is you'd need a new piece for each cut since the dust will escape through the kerf in the "end piece" once cut.

Nah, just a new piece of tape to cover that kerf.  The tape thing also works in other situations where you are cutting over a preexisting kerf...
 
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