TS55 cut quality question - new saw

[waynew]

Hi,

I seem to be getting some gouging at the end of the cut, is this to be expected? If not how can I correct it.
I can hear and see the back of the blade moving across toward the 'good piece of material' at the very end of the cut.

This gouging of the end was happening new right out of the box, the blade was also 1/2 degree out of alignment which I was able to correct using
Rick Christopherson's supplemental manual (many thanks).

See attachment.

Thanks,
Wayne

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Wayne,

Is the gouge occurring on the off cut side or the rail side? I assume off cut, otherwise you'd be posting that you damaged your rail.

If I had to take a guess, I'd say that the saw is coming off the rail at the end of the cut. Either because it's being lifting before the blade is retracted or stops spinning or because the saw is not making full contact with the rail the entirety of the cut.

It would probably be best if you gave our support guys a ring and spoke to one of them to help you troubleshoot what's going on. You can call us toll-free at 888-337-8600.

Shane

 

[Steve R]

Wayne,

Are you using the rail while making the cuts? If so, what length rail are you using on what length material?

Did you adjust the blade before your first cut?

If you make a cut using the rail (clamped down) and then put the saw back on the cut and lock it down. (As if you are changing a blade) Then take a business card and you should NOT be able to slide it between the blade and the board from the front.  From the back you SHOULD be able to just slide it in between the blade and board.

If you are using a rail and the card measure checks out... Call Festool and they will help you out...  I would send it back and have them adjust it for you. Turnaround is quick.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[tbellemare]

It looks like the gouge is on the rail side from the image. Is that true?

How much rail is hanging off the end of the cut? It almost looks like the forward gib on the saw is coming off the rail.

Tom

 

[Rick Christopherson]

From the picture, you are running the saw well past the end of the cut where only an inch of the blade is still in contact. That's not necessarily bad, but it makes we wonder if you have enough guide rail at the end of your cut for this. I'd have to go check dimensions, but I would take a guess that this would require at least 10 inches of guide rail past the end of your workpiece.

Once the front guide rail gib knob goes past the end of the guide rail, the saw is no longer fully guided and can move side to side on the rail.

 

[Michael Kellough]

From the picture, you are running the saw well past the end of the cut where only an inch of the blade is still in contact. That's not necessarily bad, but it makes we wonder if you have enough guide rail at the end of your cut for this. I'd have to go check dimensions, but I would take a guess that this would require at least 10 inches of guide rail past the end of your workpiece.

Once the front guide rail gib knob goes past the end of the guide rail, the saw is no longer fully guided and can move side to side on the rail.

That is a possibility.

It could also be that the saw blade was toed out rather than in. With excessive toe out the lower half of the blade will bend towards the offcut side and when the front of the blade exits the wood the rear will be free to spring back towards the rail appearing to cut excessively but in fact it is cutting where it should have been cutting all along.

The rest of the kerf is improperly to the right of the rail which can be seen if a straight edge is placed along the left side of the kerf. The beginning and end of the kerf will be along the straight edge but the rest of the kerf will gradually move to the right (until the front of the blade exited).

 

[waynew]

I want to thank you all for the quick response, I called Festool (Dave) as Shane suggested. Dave diagnoised the problem quickly and talked me through
the solution. The base needed re-alignment, the back of the blade was kicked in toward the rail when it should have been slightly
further out as compared to the front of the blade.

Its cutting very nicely now, great service, thanks again.

Wayne

 

[Michael Kellough]

I want to thank you all for the quick response, I called Festool (Dave) as Shane suggested. Dave diagnoised the problem quickly and talked me through
the solution. The base needed re-alignment, the back of the blade was kicked in toward the rail when it should have been slightly
further out as compared to the front of the blade.

Its cutting very nicely now, great service, thanks again.

Wayne

AKA toe out.

 

[semenza]

I want to thank you all for the quick response, I called Festool (Dave) as Shane suggested. Dave diagnoised the problem quickly and talked me through
the solution. The base needed re-alignment, the back of the blade was kicked in toward the rail when it should have been slightly
further out as compared to the front of the blade.

Its cutting very nicely now, great service, thanks again.

Wayne

AKA toe out.

Hi,

Or heel out , depending on how you look at it.  [big grin]

Seth

 

[Michael Kellough]

Gotcha Seth  [poke]
toe out = heel in

[smile]

 

[kfitzsimons]

Any way you could explain the realigning of the base please? I'd just like to know and double check mine. Thanks.

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

If you're blade is properly aligned, it should touch your splinterguard on the guide rail in the front and should have about a business card's thickness between the blade and splinterguard in the back when the blade is fully plunged. Unless you're having issues with cut quality, I would highly recommend that you not make adjustments. Should you need assistance, you can reference Rick Christopherson's manual (page 12, "Matching the TS 55 to an Existing Guide Rail") or call us toll-free to assistance over the phone.

Edit: I'd like to add that while it may be tempting to make adjustments to a new saw right out of the box, the saws are all set to high tolerances directly from the factory. So, resist the urge. [big grin]

If your heel's out, your wood will get toe up.  [blink]

Shane

 

[waynew]

Edit: I'd like to add that while it may be tempting to make adjustments to a new saw right out of the box, the saws are all set to high tolerances directly from the factory. So, resist the urge. [big grin]
If your heel's out, your wood will get toe up.  [blink]
Shane

Hi Shane,  thanks once again for the excellent service. I know you were not implying that I had fiddled with this particular adjustment right out of the box, but I just wanted to make it clear
that wasn't the case. The only two setting screws that I adjusted were the screws that set the blade perpendicular to the sole plate which was very simple and quick to do using the manual
written by Mr Christopherson. This setting was out by approx 1/2 degree right from the factory as well as the toe out or heal in issue which was like that right from the factory. If
this saw would have been tested correctly at the factory there is no way that I would have receive it with these settings.

Regards,
Wayne

 

[Steve R]

You put your right Toe in,
You put your right Heal out,
You put your right Toe in,
And you shake it all about,
You do the hokey pokey
and you turn yourself around
That’s what it's all about.

Cheers,
Steve

 

[Administrator_JSVN]

Wayne, my comment was not directed toward you. We have a lot of people who visit and read the forum. If someone happens across the thread, I don't want their first course of action to be loosing screws and adjusting things. Nor did I want anyone to get the impression that it's typical that the saw needs adjusting right out of the box. Your situation may be an exception.

My apologies if it came across that way.