TS55 or Makita sp6000 Track Saw

[suds]

I used to own the TS55 But sold it years ago due to very little use. I did retain the two MFT’s and the tracks. I have found that occasionally I need to cut plywood but only occasionally. At $600 the TS55 just doesn’t pencil out vs $379 for the Makita sp6000 which will work on my tracks. Even a WEN track saw??  Anyone have the same dilemma?

 

[rvieceli]

My son has the Makita and likes it a lot.

Ron

 

[tsmi243]

Anyone have the same dilemma?

Nope, I use the hell out of mine.  I wouldn't downgrade for anything.  What are you hoping to use it for? 

If you haven't already seen it, the Peter Millard series on cheap track saws might tell you what you need to know.

 

[suds]

Have a SawStop so the only time I use it is to cut 2x4 foot 1/2 and 1/4 plywood.  That is 95% of my need for it.

 

[afish]

I also could not justify the cost difference and own the Makita but mine sits in its case way more than most Im sure since I have a couple other cordless cir saws and cnc so mine doesnt even come out for framing lumber but its there if I need it.  If I used it all the time I would have looked at the Festool closer but overall no complaints about the Makita.

 

[suds]

Since I already have the Tracks for the Festool and the Makita will fit on those tracks it seems like a more sensible solution.  If I was using the track saw on a more regular basis I could probably justify the increase in price for the Festool.  I have most all of their sanders and the jig saw and am very satisfied with those.  Good to hear that you are satisfied with the Makita.

 

[ChuckM]

Have a SawStop so the only time I use it is to cut 2x4 foot 1/2 and 1/4 plywood.  That is 95% of my need for it.

Assuming yours is a PCS or ICS, you don't need a track saw to handle 2x4 plywood, even the 3/4".

I sold my TS75 with its track because I hardly used it. My SawStop PCS can take care of most of my ripping/crosscutting needs.

Money aside, I prefer a good tool to be in a good home and get used. A cabinetmaker grabbed it from me three years ago at 80% (?) of the retail price. All said, the new saw hadn't been used more than 3 times! The buyer believed that because the blade was like new.

If I were you, I would sell the remaining tracks and get a Jessem stock guides (which will greatly improve safety and quality of cuts). The stock guides would allow you to handle even a full 4x8 sheet once in a blue moon.

 

[squall_line]

Have a SawStop so the only time I use it is to cut 2x4 foot 1/2 and 1/4 plywood.  That is 95% of my need for it.

Assuming yours is a PCS or ICS, you don't need a track saw to handle 2x4 plywood, even the 3/4".

I sold my TS75 with its track because I hardly used it. My SawStop PCS can take care of most of my ripping/crosscutting needs.

Money aside, I prefer a good tool to be in a good home and get used. A cabinetmaker grabbed it from me three years ago at 80% (?) of the retail price. All said, the new saw hadn't been used more than 3 times! The buyer believed that because the blade was like new.

If I were you, I would sell the remaining tracks and get a Jessem stock guides (which will greatly improve safety and quality of cuts). The stock guides would allow you to handle even a full 4x8 sheet once in a blue moon.

I mean, it could just be a lack of desire to hump around or feed 2-foot x 4-foot sheets of plywood, or a lack of space for infeed/outfeed (although with a table saw, that should have already been sorted, I would imagine). 

2x4 sheets aren't a big deal for me personally, and even a 3/4" 4x4 or 1/2" 4x8 sheet isn't much of a big deal for me on a good day, but the not-so-good days are starting to creep up in number.  That's just me, though.

 

[glass1]

Neither. Tsc 55 or makita cordless. Both cordless versions are better than the corded versions. The bag on the tsc 55 collects much dust. The makita will also collect in the bag but you must buy the mafell bag.

 

[ChuckM]

I mean, it could just be a lack of desire to hump around or feed 2-foot x 4-foot sheets of plywood, or a lack of space for infeed/outfeed (although with a table saw, that should have already been sorted, I would imagine). 

2x4 sheets aren't a big deal for me personally, and even a 3/4" 4x4 or 1/2" 4x8 sheet isn't much of a big deal for me on a good day, but the not-so-good days are starting to creep up in number.  That's just me, though.

Cabinetmakers or anyone who deals with plywood sheets (3/4" or thicker) regularly should have a tracksaw. Furniture-makers or anyone who handles plywood sheets only occasionally a table saw. I have had no problems with any 4x8 plywood sheets 1/2", 1/4" & 1/8" thick.

3/4"? I always have it rough sized the lumber yard BECAUSE my SUV is too small for a full 3/4" - 4 x 8 sheet. For that reason, the largest 3/4" sheet I have ever handled on my table saw in my shop was 3-1/2 x 8.

My table saw has an outfeed table (folding). To handle a 3-1/2 x 8 sheet, I'd place a roller stand to support part of the sheet, and the JessEm stock guides would take care of the rest (as seen in the video) as I feed the work forward.

 

[suds]

My SawStop is a job site saw. Since I’m sharing my shop with 3 cars I have it really stacked full and all on roll arounds.  It has worked ok but space is now at a premium.

 

[huntdupl]

I had the SP6000 fitted with a Plug-It pig tail - I have no experience with TS55, but the Makita is a great saw for a hobbyist. Cutting 1 3/4-2" softwood and never felt underpowered. I recently upgraded to the cordless Makita track saw and find myself using it even more often now. I would recommend the cordless if you have anything else on the LXT 18v platform - it runs around $350 bare tool.

If your looking for more functionality, another suggestion would be the Makita XSH08Z cordless circular saw which is also compatible with guiderails. I recently just purchased Makita's 36v hypoid rear handle saw and very impressed with the power and performance. I was worried it was going to be really heavy but find it tracks really well and cordless is the future...

 

[suds]

I do have Makita drill and impact but they are the old black and white batteries so not sure those would work on this saw??

 

[squall_line]

I do have Makita drill and impact but they are the old black and white batteries so not sure those would work on this saw??

Fromhttps://www.makitatools.com/service/faq:

Q: Is the battery interchangeable among all Makita battery products?
A: The LXT® 18V battery is compatible with all our LXT® solutions that have Star Protection Computer Controls ™ , This line up has 150+ solutions.

If you google "makita battery compatibility", you can find all sorts of discussions; narrow down the focus with your specific tools and/or battery models.

 

[Bertotti]

I have used my tracks with my Ridgid circular saw for both the bigger unit and the smaller 18volt unit. I just clamp the track backward and use the backside as a guide. Works well enough for breaking things down in a pinch. Like when I forget to bring the ts55, we won't talk about that, or just have a quick cut and don't care to haul out the extension cord while the other saw is at hand. My point is if you have a circular saw you might want to give ti s shot and see if it saves you some cash.

 

[suds]

I do have a very old Ryobi battery powered saw I could try that with. I was thinking of doing just that but wondering how much trouble it was lining up the cut.  Also i would have to extend the cut piece off the table since there is no adjustment to the "plunge". My old battery is also not up to par for cutting much of anything. 

 

[ChuckM]

Long before track saws became popular, this is what circular saw users have been doing with a shop-made jig to ripcut and crosscut sheet goods:https://www.rockler.com/learn/circular-saw-cutting-jigs

 

[squall_line]

Long before track saws became popular, this is what circular saw users have been doing with a shop-made jig to ripcut and crosscut sheet goods:https://www.rockler.com/learn/circular-saw-cutting-jigs

The second, thin piece is the key on that first setup.  I used a straight edge and circular saw for years, but the offset calculation to clamp the "fence" was the biggest annoyance with it and where/why tracks excel.  Tracks also excel at eliminating the side-to-side slop/wander that happens if your circular saw drifts from the straight edge.

Obviously on this forum tracks are going to be the first, second, and third recommendation for most saw work like this.

 

[Svar]

Tracks also excel at eliminating the side-to-side slop/wander that happens if your circular saw drifts from the straight edge.

There is another DIY design, where saw base hooks up into a channel, eliminating side to side movement.

[attachimg=1]

 

[ChuckM]

The add-on channel is quite clever.

Others have "boxed" the circular saw in some kind of fixture of various designs such as this one:

Before I had the TS75 or the JessEm stock guides on my table saw, I simply rough ripped a sheet (about 1/8" or so over the final width or length) with a circular saw and ripping jig, and then finalized the cut on the table saw (with the factory edge against the fence). Norm Abram made it look easy to handle a 3/4" x 4 x 8 on his (small) Delta saw (with a small-ish, metal fence!) though. [unsure]