TS55-REQ and MFT-3 Not Cutting Square

For me, a new table saw would be more versatile (or a great used one). I'm sure that a table saw would be as accurate as you need. For me, for just crosscuts, I think my MFT/guide rail/TS55 combo is more accurate and, I believe, gives squarer cuts. Don't use dogs on the MFT. Everyone has their preference though. I still have a small tablesaw though for some jobs which the MFT just doesn't work as well for me.
 
rand17 said:
So....I took off the protractor and set it outside!... I took the rear fence up against 2 dawgs and clamped....then squared the rail off to another set of perpendicular dawgs.... did the 4 cut test and was a strong 2mm off north to south on my 4th cut piece... any ideas??

Some thing is really wrong here. Most likely the way that you are doing the the 4 cut test.

Make sure that the edge that you have just cut is the edge that goes against the fence for the next cut.

The 5 cut method adds one cut to get the first edge straight.
 
rand17 said:
So....I took off the protractor and set it outside!... I took the rear fence up against 2 dawgs and clamped....then squared the rail off to another set of perpendicular dawgs.... did the 4 cut test and was a strong 2mm off north to south on my 4th cut piece... any ideas??

Are the holes where the Dogs went perpendicular?
Is the front of the fence parallel with the rear of the fence (where the dogs were)?
If the rear of the rail (where the dogs were) parallel the front (splinter strip side) of the rail?

Does it consistently cut off by this 2-mm amount?
Is it possible to use feeler gauges to adjust any of the components to get a different consistent amount left over?

Is it possible to know what amount of feelers would be required to get minimal error?

Then whether it matters depends on what you are making...
 
Just a couple of quick thoughts . . .

When aligning the fence against the dogs, it is easy to have the fence very tight against 1 dog and just slightly less tight against the second one. To prevent that you could try taking 2 sheets of paper or Post-It Notes and sandwiching one between each of the 2 dogs and the fence. You will know that the fence identically (or as close as you'll ever get it) tight against the dogs by the ease with which you can pull the paper out. If the paper is tight between both then it's as good as it gets. If you can pull one out easily then that point is not as close as the other.

When cutting against the guide rail was the rail clamped down on the wood you were cutting and the table? If not, while it is not necessary to clamp the rail down, it is possible for it to move slightly.

In both of the above the differences would be slight, but then your measured differences out of square are very slight also.

I have chosen not to mess with dogs just for the above reasons. If I'm going to square up something it will be the fence to the guide rail. Same amount of time involved or less and the MFT/Fence is made for just that purpose. However, we all use the methods that get the best results for each of us, so whatever works. I'd pick one method and use it until you find that it creates problems with whatever you're making; then look for ways to improve.
 
UPDATE....My MFT/3 is perfect! did the 4 cut and it came out almost perfect!...I am satisfied!... I can say the Slop Stop did help a lot!.. Basically after listening to and watching many different ways of squaring I think it scrambled my thoughts to "overthinking" it!... After mounting the Slop stop (something that should be included with the MFT/3) I locked in the rail against the table stops and squared the fence to the rail! DONE!... although I did lock down the angle stop clamp on the fence last..... I was doing that first before in prior attempts...seems to have made a difference....Thanks ALL for the help!
 
Good to read that sorted and satisfied now. 

Sure will be a useful resource for others if having similar prob's. 

Richard (UK)
 
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