TS55 REQ to replace a table saw? to make kitchen cabinets and doors.

[mdelrossi]

OK, this really sucks, why are these tools so well thought out???

Just picked up a CT midi and a RO90, excellent machines.

I'll be doing some remodeling of our kitchen and possibly making some of the cabinets and doors.
I have an old Crapsman table saw and an incra jig ultra fence. The problems I've always had was the amount of room it takes up (work in the basement in a Brooklyn brownstone 8' max  useable space side to side), and hoisting a full sheet of ply onto the TS.

I've been looking at the videos on the web and it seems that it might make sense.

Has any one here any experience with doing this.
Thanks in advance.

Sliding down the slope.

 

[Slappy]

get the 55" inch with the holey rail & then get the 118" , nothing but joy breaking down 4 X 8 sheets ply or MDF
Way safer as well 
the parallel guides make for precise repeatability the Festool ones Or the aftermarket ones like the Seneca 

 

[peter halle]

First,   [welcome] to the FOG!  Watching videos like you have does help with the difficult decision about moving material thru the toll versus moving the tool thru the material.

When you are working with sheet goods that might weigh 50 to 90 lbs and because of physical size also wrestle you, the alternative of moving a handheld tool thru it with accuracy does become appealing.

What you are considering would indeed appear to make sense using Festool products, but I know all they guys and gals here would like to hear some more of your plans so that they can give you REAL WORLD advice based on their experience.

Peter

 

[Theshipstore]

The advise given by Slappy is right on for cutting the carcase and face frames needed for cabinet construction.
I have been using this type of setup now for over 5 years and found that my cabinet construction time has been reduced by about 1/3rd as opposed to the old table saw method.
I can cut up the carcase material much faster and cleaner using my TS 55 with the guide rails. The face frame are cut using this same method

By the way  [welcome] to FOG

Sal

 

[mdelrossi]

get the 55" inch with the holey rail

Do you mean the hole drilling system?

the parallel guides make for precise repeatability the Festool ones Or the aftermarket ones like the Seneca 

Are there other aftermarket accessories?
Also are the seneca better than the Festool?

Thanks for helping me spend my money  [scared]

 

[Slappy]

get the 55" inch with the holey rail

Do you mean the hole drilling system?

the parallel guides make for precise repeatability the Festool ones Or the aftermarket ones like the Seneca   

Are there other aftermarket accessories?
Also are the seneca better than the Festool?

Thanks for helping me spend my money  [scared]

most vendors will swap the holey guide for an extra $10.oo from the stock one that comes with the TS55 REQ
As your building shelves it will save you later down the road if you get the 32 system later

I like the Senca parallel guides for the wider cuts
http://www.senecawoodworking.com/products/parallel-guide-system-for-incra-t-track-plus

the 118" rail  in a shop makes ripping the sheets a breeze yeah it's expensive
But joining 2 rails can  introduce errors when doing multiple rip cuts .
Hey I spent the $$ thru advice here & now I feel it was WELL worth the cost
in time ,safety , precise repeatability & saved my back from wrangling 4 X 8 sheets up on a TS let alone the save space in my shop . 

 

[mdelrossi]

Thanks for the info.
Just gotta check the bank acct. [wink]

 

[NEW2FES]

You can easily rip cabinet carcasses faster then the average homeowner table saw. The buy in however isn't cheap but it is safer.

SAL?? Question I have is how are you cutting down face frame lumber? That for me is the greatest shortcoming of the whole track saw deal no matter which manufacturer.

Even if you buy your hardwood in 8 foot sticks it is still difficult. Problem is cutting say a 3" x 8' piece down to say 2" x 8' for a rail or whatever. Trapping the wood under the track without trapping both sides (dangerous) is very difficult and I am not sure accuracy is possible.

You can fudge a bit on boxes but if you are doing inset doors your face frames can't vary in width.

I am always shocked that one of the Co hasn't addressed this. Ripping is one of the most done tasks on a table saw. Notice when they demo the tools it is always with short stock.

Good luck and if you use it with your so called Crapsmen you might have a nice set up when used together.

 

[Theshipstore]

I rip my hardwoods for the face frames usually from 9 to 10 inch wide stock. As long as us support the rail with the cutoff piece each time you can cut with now problem.

I will say I do use the http://www.festoolproducts.com/Festool-489790-Fs-rapid-Clamp-And-Fixed-Jaws-For-F-p/489790.htmo, when doing the face frame rips
A little practice and you will find you can get great clean face frame cuts.
Just also know I use the panther blade for ripping

Sal

 

[sancho57]

this how I do it. I use Toms idea

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/how-i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/

 

[Slappy]

this how I do it. I use Toms idea

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/how-i-rip-ff-and-door-pieces/

WoW ,
ThanX for that link Jobsworth  & also ThanX to Tom as well .