TS55 Technique

[smittyc]

I just purchased a TS55 and swapped the rail that comes with it for a holey rail of the same length because I plan to purchase the LR32 system soon. I had read that the optimum rail for crosscutting plywood would be the 75" rail. After using the saw on a small project to get oriented I'm wondering what the best technique is for cutting across 4 feet of plywood with a 55" rail. Should I bias the rail towards the starting side and plunge the saw before contacting the plywood ? This would mean that I retract the saw while still in the ply on the far side. The 55" rail doesn't appear to be long enough to do otherwise. I'm wondering if this will cause splintering at the far side ? That made me wonder if having the 75" rail is preferred because with it you can plunge and retract outside of the work.
BTW - my first post on FOG
I love the saw so far and the CT26 with UDD is great. I used the vacuum on my pocket hole jig and it seemed to really make the drilling smoother not to mention the lack of sawdust all over the floor. I also purchased a DF 700  and the Seneca spacer
and I can't say enough about how much I like this tool. I'm using every scrap of ply in my shop making stuff to get oriented to using the Domino machine.

Thanks
Chris

 

[tjbnwi]

The 55" rail woks just fine for 4' cross cuts.

Bias the rail towards the entry/starting side of the work.

Make sure the saw is up to speed before plunging.

Raise the saw on the exit side after the blade exits the sheet. The blade is biased to the front of the saw, the cut is complete before the front gib leaves the rail.

If you are getting the LR-32 and really want a longer rail get the 90" "holie" rail.

Tom

 

[peter halle]

Welcome to the FOG and the Festool experience.

You can cut plywood across the plywood length with the holey rail.  You want to have excess length at the beginning of the cut.  The key is to have both of the green adjusters that snug your saw on the rail on the rail at the start of the cut and the plunge of the saw so that it happens with either none of the blade when initially plunged hitting the wood or just a little at the front of the blade.

Take your saw, unplug it and slide everything back and forth and you will see what I mean.  Sounds more complicated than it is in real life.

Once you find that perfect location, draw a line on your rail to make it easier and quicker.  You could also use the anti kickback part and mount it under your rail to act as a positioning device.

The perfect spot will change with thickness of material, but after cutting plywood for 9 years I still don't have a 75 rail.

Peter

 

[ear3]

Like Tom said.  You have just enough clearance with the 55" rail, and should bias the overhang ever so slightly towards the front of the cut.

One further note when cross-cutting without  much margin for error on the backside -- make sure you understand the motion your arms and body will have to make at the back end of the cut before actually doing the cut.  Maybe run the saw power off all the way across the rail to the end just to get a fell for it.  The saw can get torqued one way or another when your arm is at full extension if you're not careful.

I just purchased a TS55 and swapped the rail that comes with it for a holey rail of the same length because I plan to purchase the LR32 system soon. I had read that the optimum rail for crosscutting plywood would be the 75" rail. After using the saw on a small project to get oriented I'm wondering what the best technique is for cutting across 4 feet of plywood with a 55" rail. Should I bias the rail towards the starting side and plunge the saw before contacting the plywood ? This would mean that I retract the saw while still in the ply on the far side. The 55" rail doesn't appear to be long enough to do otherwise. I'm wondering if this will cause splintering at the far side ? That made me wonder if having the 75" rail is preferred because with it you can plunge and retract outside of the work.
BTW - my first post on FOG
I love the saw so far and the CT26 with UDD is great. I used the vacuum on my pocket hole jig and it seemed to really make the drilling smoother not to mention the lack of sawdust all over the floor. I also purchased a DF 700  and the Seneca spacer
and I can't say enough about how much I like this tool. I'm using every scrap of ply in my shop making stuff to get oriented to using the Domino machine.

Thanks
Chris

 

[rst]

I'm with Reno on dry running the cut first, it will let you know if your hose is going to hang up and you can adjust.

 

[Peter_C]

I run a 2700mm rail which is around 106" for ripping the 8' length, and a 55" for cross cutting the 4' sections and anything smaller. Nothing wrong with a holy rail, but having the right length is everything. Personally I see no need for a 75" rail.

 

[smittyc]

Thanks Guys, I appreciate the advice.
Chris