TS60 feed rate and saw marks

[Svar]

Thinking about what Birdhunter just mentioned, maybe there's too much toe-in or toe-out on the blade? Sedge uses a business card at the rear of the blade for setting toe.

Looks like the scratches are from the leading edge of the blade. Too much "toe-in".

 

[Michael Kellough]

Thinking about what Birdhunter just mentioned, maybe there's too much toe-in or toe-out on the blade? Sedge uses a business card at the rear of the blade for setting toe.

Looks like the scratches are from the leading edge of the blade. Too much "toe-in".

Why do the scratches only show up when the saw is pushed slowly?

 

[grbmds]

[member=80195]mavbo[/member] I don't know a lot about the TS60 but I don't get noticeable crosscut saw marks from my TS55 which I've owned for quite a few years. I do get some burn marks if I cut too slowly. Have you checked to see if the nut holding the blade on is tight? I had an instance of  the nut loosening up once which did cause saw blade marks (don't know why it happened).

If the saw is still within its 90-day warranty period for returns I'd return it for a new one. It's always possible that there is something wrong with the saw. It should be very easy to setup and use. Once the saw is adjusted to the rail you're using, it should just stay adjusted and give you essentially perfect cuts. At least that is the way my TS55 has operated.

 

[Laminator]

I've found it beneficial to have a support block of equal thickness under the fence behind the saw when cutting narrow parts on the MFT.  Also the advise about feed rate is very important because going too slow allows the saw to vibrate/rattle which always seems to show up as roughness in the cut.

 

[danrush]

I may have missed it if mentioned above.. have you checked the blade for a bent or otherwise damaged tooth? I recently received a blade from the sharpener that left a cut very much like you show. It was a bad tooth.

 

[mino]

Thinking about what Birdhunter just mentioned, maybe there's too much toe-in or toe-out on the blade? Sedge uses a business card at the rear of the blade for setting toe.

Looks like the scratches are from the leading edge of the blade. Too much "toe-in".

Why do the scratches only show up when the saw is pushed slowly?

Because the posters are indeed wrong. The blade is stable, it is the whole saw "wobbling" vis-a-vis the stock. A clean cut at high speed and a bad one at slow is a clear indication of that. With a wobbly blade (and a stable saw/rail) it would be the other way round.

When one does a fast cut, there saw momentum and the gyro effect "guides" the saw and prevents such wild position changes. With a slow cut, the saw/rail not being fixed to the stock shows up however. I use this effect when testing for rail/saw interface accuracy. On a fast cut it is too hard to see a problem by the naked eye ...

 

[mavbo]

Thank you all for the suggestions and comments. I promise I didn't buy the TS60+MFT/3 just to get 1x2s, but that was just what I had laying around for the first test cuts.

I got the 16T rip blade in the mail and tested it against the 42T on some 1x10 hard maple cross cuts. The 16T blade is producing practically no saw marks and much smoother end grain when cutting at a slow to medium rate, the 42T still produces saw marks that can be felt with a finger. At this point I'll be ordering a new 42T blade and hope that solves the issue. I'm still learning and refining the technique side so thank you all again for the tips and tricks. I've been using the saw anyways since the cuts are still square and faster than a hand saw + shooting board.

 

[Lincoln]

Try the 28 tooth blade, that's what it's for.

 

[Crazyraceguy]

Try the 28 tooth blade, that's what it's for.

28T sounds too coarse for cross-cuts? Especially for super-fine finish.
It will definitely do it, and for rough framing with a circular saw, where speed is the goal, it would be fine.
If you need it to be a combination of rip and cross cut, sure, but don't expect clean (polished) finish that way.
At this point though, getting blades, of any tooth count, is not really a thing.
The lid card in the Systainer shows all of the "theoretically" available blades, with item numbers and all. Sourcing them?
I had a second blade imported with mine, just because of this. Then it was announced that they would be coming here. The first ones didn't eve ship until last week. I have yet to see one in a retail store.
No need to stock blades for a non-existent saw. (at this point)

Search it on Amazon US(I just did) and you would think there is no such thing.  TS55 in all variants, and TS75, that's it.