Un-Safe way to make Domino tenons

MacBoy

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Please see the comment by Crazy Race Guy down below on why this is UNSAFE.

For making long strips of Domino tenons, this happy fella has a simple 5-minute holder to safely use the router table.


(30-sec video)


 
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Just my two cents...I don't usually think the sides of a domino offer much. I'll just cut a wider domino with the machine, and then rip the domino square sided. Occasionally I'll take a few passes with a low angle block plane and give the sides a rough chamfer. It's nice to have some extra wiggle room on the sides when gluing up a large number of dominoes, and extra width also gives space for any extra glue. The top and the bottom of a domino are structurally enough for most of my work, small and big—unless I really want perfect alignment—and even then, that's usually just a matter of adjusting while clamping.

I fret the near perfect thickness of the domino. To my mind that's the important factor. In softwoods, I'll do a test, and sometimes leave them just a fraction of a hair thicker for snug alignment. Especially in larger thickness dominoes from the XL.
 
Where added structural strength is desired, for example, in a butt joint, or where precise alignments are needed in a narrow to narrow mortise setting, full-width tenons are better than squared-off ones. Three-way miters are another joinery example where squared-off tenons may not be ideal.
 
I know some don't believe in even glueing the tenons in, let alone rounding the edges, but I like maximising the glue contact surface as much as possible and I love being able to use wider tenons, so I use the side profile cutters from findbuytools.com to machine the edge grooves easily and safely, and then use a pattern bit to do the grooves on the faces in one pass.
 

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+1. Grooved/fluted dowels are better than dowels for dowel joints and the same goes for dominoes.
 
For making long strips of Domino tenons, this happy fella has a simple 5-minute holder to safely use the router table.
Nice video.

I did something similar when making some white oak domino through tenons, but I used a setup of four feather boards on my router table. That worked fine.

I suppose making a permanent jig would be good if one needed to make a large amount of tenons repeatedly over time.

Bob
 
I employed the feather board approach, too, one time when I needed to make my own. More than one permanent jig will be needed to make all the sizes if they are used.
 
No one notices the stock being trapped between the bearing and the fence?!
This is a major no!
Bury the bit in the fence, align the bearing to the fence and then run the parts through.

Thank you for catching that cardinal sin.

I was overtaken by the simplicity of the long tenon trap.

I have updated the original posting to alert people on the UNSAFE technique.

Eyes and mind is now wide open.
 
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I make custom dominos since the standard width limit the joinery needed.

Stock is sized in rectangular lengths, using a thicknesser-planer, and then the edges are rounded on the router table ...

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Domino-made mortises ...

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End result ...

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Because the tenons were used in through mortises, the perimeter of the domino needed to be smooth (rather than grooved for glue to escape).

Regards from Perth

Derek
 
While I've made square-edge tenon stock for custom widths, I generally like to make them exactly match the mortise width, including the roundover. Usually, I use a roundover bit that's close as the inexact radius leaves a little glue escape in each corner while the overall width of the tenon is more or less exact. To me, this avoids needing to add grooves to the surfaces to allow for squeeze-out. If you're putting the grooves on, you could exactly match the roundover radius with some bits from Woodpeckers.
 
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