cliffp
Member
- Joined
- Jun 22, 2012
- Messages
- 517
I recently acquired these items and am trying to get my head around the best way to utilise them.
I noticed that the detent position for 0 deg in the mitre fence does not result in the fence being exactly parallel to the saw blade. I can easily sort this out by lifting up the detent lever so the angle is set by the scale so that is no problem but I wonder what would happen with a sliding table (which I plan to get next week) if its line of travel is not parallel to the saw blade? Is there any adjustment for this? I read the set-up instructions here:
http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/festool_cms_slider.php
and didn't see any adjustment for it. If there is no adjustment, what are the consequences and how do I mitigate them?
The second question is that I tried making a narrow rip cut (for practise) and found that I was getting a slightly non-straight cut. It isn't cutting perfectly straight at an angle but periodically deviating away from the correct line of cut. The maximum error is around 0.4mm. I am quite sure this is operator error probably exacerbated by the fact that the fence moves when force is applied to it through my attempts to keep the wood properly registered against the fence. I dare say this will improve with practise as I learn to apply the minimum necessary force and get the overall technique mastered. It also makes me realise why there is a so-called 'stopper' AKA rip fence which I imagine would fix this problem.
I noticed that the detent position for 0 deg in the mitre fence does not result in the fence being exactly parallel to the saw blade. I can easily sort this out by lifting up the detent lever so the angle is set by the scale so that is no problem but I wonder what would happen with a sliding table (which I plan to get next week) if its line of travel is not parallel to the saw blade? Is there any adjustment for this? I read the set-up instructions here:
http://www.tool-home.com/products/catalog/festool_cms_slider.php
and didn't see any adjustment for it. If there is no adjustment, what are the consequences and how do I mitigate them?
The second question is that I tried making a narrow rip cut (for practise) and found that I was getting a slightly non-straight cut. It isn't cutting perfectly straight at an angle but periodically deviating away from the correct line of cut. The maximum error is around 0.4mm. I am quite sure this is operator error probably exacerbated by the fact that the fence moves when force is applied to it through my attempts to keep the wood properly registered against the fence. I dare say this will improve with practise as I learn to apply the minimum necessary force and get the overall technique mastered. It also makes me realise why there is a so-called 'stopper' AKA rip fence which I imagine would fix this problem.