Using a square to position the Domino

semenza

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I got this method from another FOG member but I forget who it was and can't find the thread that it was posted in. I thought it might be good to have this particular method in its own topic for easy reference since it works so well.

Works best with 3/4", 18mm, 19mm, 20mm material. The fact that the centerline of the mortise is 10mm from the base plate of the Domino allows for centering and near enough  centering with all of those thicknesses. Most of the time when placing I have found that being a millimeter off for this type of joint location doesn't really matter as long as everything matches up.  

Only marking needed is to mark the location of the top or bottom edge of the piece being connected. Just be sure to be consistent in using the top or bottom. And be consistent in placing the square against the front or back edge. The measurements on the square can be aligned with the centerline on the Domino base plate so no marking for each individual location is needed, and the square keeps everything lined up across the piece.

In this case I went with three Dominoes across the piece at 100mm, 200mm, and 300mm. By doing that I was able to use the same square to mark the Domino locations for the end mortises in the mating piece. Again front edge back edge consistency is important.

The clamp keeps the square firmly in place the thick square gives something solid to push against. A thick square works the best. A large speed square would also work well. If the same locations are used frequently a piece of 3/4" plywood (or several) could be cut and used the same way as a spacer to dispense  all together with marking. Just need to make sure the plywood spacer is squared  perfectly to the work piece.

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Seth
 
great tip there seth

i was thinking about this last night in bed
i was thinking of using one of the mfs profiles as the fence . put some kind of 90 reference edge to creat a square of sorts.
then get some stops that go on either side of the domino to locate it. this way all the slots would be in the same location
 
Alan m said:
great tip there seth

i was thinking about this last night in bed
i was thinking of using one of the mfs profiles as the fence . put some kind of 90 reference edge to creat a square of sorts.
then get some stops that go on either side of the domino to locate it. this way all the slots would be in the same location

Yeah with stops on both sides of the Domino it would help prevent any side shifting while plunging.  A jig  as you suggest with built-in  squaring and sliding stops ( T- Track?) would be quite good.

The clamped square is so easy , simple, and adaptable (+ it really works well) that it is hard for me to want to bother even making a jig.  Especially since the measurement location can be so easily transfered to mating pieces.

Perhaps a carpenters/speed square could be used as a good basis for the jig?

Seth
 
I used this exact technique for the one fixed shelf on my Guido Henn storage cabinets I built.  And I admit I plagiarized the idea from the same place Seth saw it.  Great solution.
 
Soooo I'm the new guy here,
been lurking forever.
Anyways I think what needs to happen is a way to have the domino
attach to a rail.
Maybe the domiplate guy can make something.
Love the forum btw
Chuck
 
Seth,

I purchased both the 18" and 26" squares for this operation, works great for solid wood applications as well making Credenza's and large cabinets with my Dominos.

Jack
 
pettyconstruction said:
Soooo I'm the new guy here,
been lurking forever.
Anyways I think what needs to happen is a way to have the domino
attach to a rail.
Maybe the domiplate guy can make something.
Love the forum btw
Chuck

Hi Chuck,

Glad you de-lurked !  [smile]

I am pretty sure that has been done. Have to do a little searching to find it.  

Certainly a rail attachment would work. Could get a bit awkward depending on the rail length. On a long rail with indexing  it would make quick work of some  jobs.  The square is very fast and handy, especially for one  or two rows.

Seth
 
Alan m said:
great tip there seth

i was thinking about this last night in bed
i was thinking of using one of the mfs profiles as the fence . put some kind of 90 reference edge to creat a square of sorts.
then get some stops that go on either side of the domino to locate it. this way all the slots would be in the same location

Lieing in bed,at night thinking about festools ….

Oh yea brother to late for you…
. [big grin]
 
sancho57 said:
Alan m said:
great tip there seth

i was thinking about this last night in bed
i was thinking of using one of the mfs profiles as the fence . put some kind of 90 reference edge to creat a square of sorts.
then get some stops that go on either side of the domino to locate it. this way all the slots would be in the same location

Lieing in bed,at night thinking about festools ….

Oh yea brother to late for you…
. [big grin]

definetly too late for me
 
adubeau said:
Yeah that is a good idea... except the metric square.....   [tongue]

I generally use imperial, but I bought a couple items in metric just to have the capability  to measure in metric if needed. Turns out I prefer the metric  for the use shown because I can always choose easy to remember whole numbers for the Domino locations. EX- 100, 200, 300, or 110, 210, 310 etc.  Instead of  2 3/4", 6 1/4", 10 1/2". 

Seth
 
SRSemenza said:
adubeau said:
Yeah that is a good idea... except the metric square.....   [tongue]

I generally use imperial, but I bought a couple items in metric just to have the capability  to measure in metric if needed. Turns out I prefer the metric  for the use shown because I can always choose easy to remember whole numbers for the Domino locations. EX- 100, 200, 300, or 110, 210, 310 etc.  Instead of  2 3/4", 6 1/4", 10 1/2". 

Seth

I concur and will probably buy the metric version when available again.

Jack
 
After finishing some dominos today I was thinking why not use my MFS as a backer........course I thought of it after I was done.  Question I have the smaller MFS set and needed more than the 400 to span the length. Is there a connector to link two 400s together?

Len
 
Len,  according to the Festool USA website you can use the guiderail connectors to expand MFS profiles:

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Peter
 
I have the 26" in imperial.  Used to do exactly the same thing.  I think I vibrated the screws loose on the square!  I can't imagine why else they would just loosen up like that.  Whether or not that was the cause it spooked me so I stopped doing it.  Now I just use the square to place a straight edge and clamp the straight edge.  And if the piece is narrower than 24" I just use the back of the guide on the MFT.  I normally use pins and outriggers for placement.
 
fshanno said:
I have the 26" in imperial.  Used to do exactly the same thing.  I think I vibrated the screws loose on the square!  I can't imagine why else they would just loosen up like that.  Whether or not that was the cause it spooked me so I stopped doing it.  Now I just use the square to place a straight edge and clamp the straight edge.  And if the piece is narrower than 24" I just use the back of the guide on the MFT.  I normally use pins and outriggers for placement.

I think I read an earlier post where someone used locktight on those screws to keep them from loosening up in regular service.

Jack
 
I think Festool should design an attachment to use the 32mm guide rail system.

Pierre
 
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