Using LR32 for door cups?

[duburban]

I'm just curious how I would go about drilling the hinge cups using the lr32. I know that the hinge plate will mount into the existing lr32 holes in the cab, 80mm from the top of cab. The question is, if the door panel is 1.5 mm or so smaller in both dimensions, wouldn't I need to account for that when setting the track onto the door slab?

Wouldn't I need a .75mm spacer between the stop on the guide rail and the door slab to land the cup dead center?

I'll be looking through big rocks series again but i'm off to cut cab sides now.

 

[h.gil]

The plates have adjustment up and down. You'd bend the arm just a bit when you first hand the doors but then you adjust the plate.

 

[duburban]

i was wondering about that. so thats the norm for a full overlay?

 

[duburban]

Can i get a +1 on h.gill ?

 

[cliffp]

If I understand you correctly, you are asking about how you account for the fact that the doors have a gap all around them (in your case 0.75mm) and that you need to account for that in setting the position of the rail against the door? I just use a feeler gauge between the stop and the edge of the door to bring the cup hole closer to the edge. In your case that would be 0.75mm.

 

[Sparktrician]

Given the relative standard of a 3mm reveal split 1.5mm above and 1.5 below, I made a set of 1.5mm UHMW shims to be used with the LR 32 to get the correct spacing.  Seems to work fine for me.  I pinged Rich at Woodpeckers about offering sets of 1.5mm shims some time back.  He understood the concept and liked the idea, but I haven't seen anything further from Woodpeckers. 

 

[duburban]

Given the relative standard of a 3mm reveal split 1.5mm above and 1.5 below, I made a set of 1.5mm UHMW shims to be used with the LR 32 to get the correct spacing.  Seems to work fine for me.  I pinged Rich at Woodpeckers about offering sets of 1.5mm shims some time back.  He understood the concept and liked the idea, but I haven't seen anything further from Woodpeckers.

That was going to be my approach. Good idea on UHMW, I should keep some of that stuff around.

I did a trial run with the system, no doors yet. Everything went well except that I somehow didn't center the collet properly and I ended up with a 1.5-2mm error between front and back pin heights.

Any tips on properly centering (OF1010) in the plate?

 

[Sparktrician]

Given the relative standard of a 3mm reveal split 1.5mm above and 1.5 below, I made a set of 1.5mm UHMW shims to be used with the LR 32 to get the correct spacing.  Seems to work fine for me.  I pinged Rich at Woodpeckers about offering sets of 1.5mm shims some time back.  He understood the concept and liked the idea, but I haven't seen anything further from Woodpeckers.

That was going to be my approach. Good idea on UHMW, I should keep some of that stuff around.

I did a trial run with the system, no doors yet. Everything went well except that I somehow didn't center the collet properly and I ended up with a 1.5-2mm error between front and back pin heights.

Any tips on properly centering (OF1010) in the plate?

The LR 32 comes with a centering mandrel. 

 

[duburban]

Given the relative standard of a 3mm reveal split 1.5mm above and 1.5 below, I made a set of 1.5mm UHMW shims to be used with the LR 32 to get the correct spacing.  Seems to work fine for me.  I pinged Rich at Woodpeckers about offering sets of 1.5mm shims some time back.  He understood the concept and liked the idea, but I haven't seen anything further from Woodpeckers.

That was going to be my approach. Good idea on UHMW, I should keep some of that stuff around.

I did a trial run with the system, no doors yet. Everything went well except that I somehow didn't center the collet properly and I ended up with a 1.5-2mm error between front and back pin heights.

Any tips on properly centering (OF1010) in the plate?

The LR 32 comes with a centering mandrel.

Yes, Noted. I did use it.

 

[tiralie]

Everything went well except that I somehow didn't center the collet properly and I ended up with a 1.5-2mm error between front and back pin heights.

That might not be as a result of centering the OF1010 plate.
Sometimes the stop moves slightly away from the top or bottom of the panel when clamping and the heights will be slightly different.
Also, check that the offsets are equal.
See this thread for more discussion.
Tim

 

[duburban]

Everything went well except that I somehow didn't center the collet properly and I ended up with a 1.5-2mm error between front and back pin heights.

That might not be as a result of centering the OF1010 plate.
Sometimes the stop moves slightly away from the top or bottom of the panel when clamping and the heights will be slightly different.
Also, check that the offsets are equal.
See this thread for more discussion.
Tim

I looked hard for the error. Finding nothing i flipped the router over and used a square to check the alignment of the bit to the button that locks into the track holes. The router bit and button were misaligned in the realm of my error. When flipping the track around the error showed its head.

 

[duburban]

that link discussed the same thing. If i did use the centering mandrel properly then my baseplate is out of whack.

The cabinet side was very square btw.

 

[cliffp]

As I think I said in the other thread, my problem was an out of whack baseplate and a new one solved the problem.

 

[duburban]

Can someone check their baseplate with the of1010 mounted in it?

Using a square to reference the edge of the baseplate that runs on the track (the side without the track cams), square to one side of the pin that locks into the guide rail. I'm guessing the router bit, properly centered, is dead on with the center of this pin. Mine is 1mm or so out.

1mm of error there would result in 2mm by the time the track is flipped around.

 

[duburban]

Up

 

[tiralie]

Can someone check their baseplate with the of1010 mounted in it?

Using a square to reference the edge of the baseplate that runs on the track (the side without the track cams), square to one side of the pin that locks into the guide rail. I'm guessing the router bit, properly centered, is dead on with the center of this pin. Mine is 1mm or so out.

I checked mine. And it's on center although it's not easy to see if it's 1mm out or not since the center of the pin is not marked. I always check my system holes using a set square on one side of a panel and line up the bottom of a row. They are always inline.

1mm of error there would result in 2mm by the time the track is flipped around.

Yes, but it would be hardly noticeable since both back rows or front rows would be off 2mm so the shelf would slope 2mm evenly front to back or back to front. 

If you are not happy call Festool and get one that is perfect.

 

[duburban]

yes, the error is consistent so the shelves do sit ok. It was very easy to see the error between center of pin and bit using a square.

 

[sancho57]

erock made a great video series,

this is everything you need to know about the LR 32 system

http://festoolownersgroup.com/festool-how-to/a-lr32-video/msg247718/#msg247718