Using short rail for drilling holes on long cabinet sides with LR32

FM_SC

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Sep 30, 2010
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Hi all,

I just got an LR32 system to use in making some built in cabinets that are about 90 inches tall.  My LR32 rail is 55 inches long.  Is there a way I can use the 55 inch rail by accurately shifting it along the length of the cabinet sides or do I need the long rail to drill the holes.

Thanks!
 
Getting a second 1400 rail and the hole connector is that not much money and will save you a lot of time (time = money) Also you will use it for other projects where you just need to join the 2 1400 rails to cut down sheet goods.

Cheers,
Steve
 
OK, sounds like I need another LR32 rail and the special connector.  I will go ahead and order those.
Thanks folks!
 
Of course having 2 of the FS 1400/2 LR 32 "Holy Rails" with the new spacers is nearly as good as having a 2424 Holy Rail for really tall cabinets, trust me before these new spacers were available and before I had a way to transport a 2424 rail, I built many tall cabinets and cases.

My approach was to simply connect an ordinary guide rail to either end of my only 1080 Holy Rail. I would index off one end to align the holes, clamping to what ever rail extended past the end of the work piece. After drilling all the hole possible I would leave my OF1010 plunged into the last hole. Then I would slide the rail along the same line until it reached what I wanted as the final hole.

Of course doing that took some practice and experience. It also was a marvelous incentive for me to purchase a truck with a lumber rack long enough to transport 3000mm rails. The day I took delivery of my first such truck was the day I drove to my Festool dealer to buy a 2424 Holy Rail and an ordinary 3000 rail.
 
Sorry if this sounds stupid or if this subject is no longer relevant. I'm new to Festool and haven't used any of my tools yet, but...
If I only had one LR32 but also had other longer rails without the holes (FS) and was working on tall cabinets this is what I would do:
I would set the LR 32 and clamp it down, then I would set my longer FS rail up flush along the back edge of the LR32 and clamp it down. After I drilled out all my holes I would unclamps the LR32 and slide it up, using the longer FS guid rail as my straight edge and reference, and then plunge the router bit into my last hole drilled to get my spacing correct and then clamp down the LR 32 and finish it out. It doesn't seem like it would take very long at all. It's something someone could do if the did not have the longer LR rail.
 
I have been an advocate for the LR32 cabinet construction system since the original standard were ratified about 60 years ago. LR32 is a concept, not just a bunch of holes for adjustable shelf pins.

When I share my suggestions about various approaches to getting the most out of the various Festool products which reduce the frustrations of not just drilling the shelf holes but also the hinge cup holes and hardware construction holes, I am making use of 60 years of personal experience.

In early 2006 I took a leave of absence from my career in the movie industry. By then I no longer owned a proper shop space, so I no longer had a line boring machine, or an effective cabinet-style table saw. That was when I drank my first cup of Festool green KoolAide. I believed that a TS55 with 3 55"/1400mm rails would function as a break-down saw. A CT22 would serve as my dust control system. The OF1010 router with a 1080mm Holy Rail and the LR32 Hole Drilling Set would substitute well for a line boring machine.

I knew Festool also made a 95"/2424mm Holy Rail, but I decided not to buy one of those because at the time I did not own a truck. Yes, I could have bought 2 more of the 1080mm Holy Rails. I had enough rail connectors although that was years before Festool finally introduced the LR32 Guide Rail Connector cat 496 938 in early 2011. That ensures accurate spacing of the holes on 32mm centers when rails are connected. Before that those of us who often made tall drilled cabinets created fixtures with a series of holes spaced 32mm to accomplish the same purpose. I created my fixture using a metal working CNC machine. Trust me that cost a lot more than the 95" rail, but it solved the transportation problem for me as I started renting space in shops belonging to friends. Once also owned an LR32 1080mm rail.

In previous posts I shared about simply connection non-drilled rails to the end of an LR32 rail. Please remember that when drilling LR32 system holes it is very important to clamp both ends of the rail. Also please keep in mind that hardly ever are cabinet sides wide enough to support more than one rail.

My advice to everyone starting to drill LR32 holes is to borrow or purchase the necessary Festool equipment. Find some long scrap pieces of sheet material cut to the width of your typical cabinets. Then start experimenting and practicing. Like nearly everything we do in woodworking we need practice. It also helps to have some coaching. Fortunately Festool USA offers end user classes in Lebanon, IN instructed by Brian Sedgeley and in Henderson, NV by Steve Bace. All this LR32 concept makes more sense with expert coaching.
 
ccarrolladams said:
My advice to everyone starting to drill LR32 holes is to borrow or purchase the necessary Festool equipment. Find some long scrap pieces of sheet material cut to the width of your typical cabinets. Then start experimenting and practicing. Like nearly everything we do in woodworking we need practice. It also helps to have some coaching. Fortunately Festool USA offers end user classes in Lebanon, IN instructed by Brian Sedgeley and in Henderson, NV by Steve Bace. All this LR32 concept makes more sense with expert coaching.

You make a point that too many too often forget... "practicing".

Steve Bace was in the Twin Cities last summer and did a "mini" free cabinet demo. One of his comments rang true to me. To paraphrase " if you get in to 32mm system, start by building some garage/basement cabinets. If you don't need them, your neighbors will and they might even buy the Ply for you so it really is free practice."

If I may step on the soapbox. Why does Festool even sell the non-holy rail? Really it adds, what $10 (US) to the cost of the 1400. Why are not all rails drilled or an option to be drilled. More people would get into the 32 system if the TS saws came with holy rails.

Just this week a job came up and I really needed another 1400 rail to add to my other three rails to get the right length to fit between things for a long cut down. But the local dealer only had normal 1400, so I said screw it I would rather do a work around than spend a hundred on a standard rail. I want to get into the 32 system but some Festool dealers are not helping that by having the 1400 normal rail and making the 32 rail special order!

Cheers,
Steve

 
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